New Asphalt Driveway

[Licklog]

After 13 years of maintaining my 830 foot steep driveway I am finally going to have it paved. Got a quote and thought I would ask for input on what I should go with. Again, it is a steep drive with a parking area on top; also flaring at the bottom and at one switchback.


Paving price for drive only and upper part only with either 2 ï½½ asphalt(Light duty) or with 2 ï½½ asphalt binder then 1 ï½½ asphalt topping(Heavy-duty)
Price includes grading drive then pave on existing stone.
Approx areas妖rive 1125 sq yds upper part 268 sq yds

1)drive to top L/D--$16,800
2)drive to top H/D--$25,000
3)upper part L/D--$4600
4)upper part H/D--$6890

If I use a binder asphalt, which is a coarser rock asphalt, and did 10 ft all the way to the top you would be looking at around $13,380.

The gravel road is very stable after 13 years of traffic and maintenance, so the question is: Since cost is an object I will not be spending $31,890 for HD from bottom to top, Do I go with 2.5 inches of binder asphalt for the 10 ft wide 830 ft. drive or the 2.5 in LD asphalt alone. The drive has normal traffic with only a propane truck 3 times per year and a septic removal truck every 5 years or so.

 

[BigBoyToys]

Speaking from experience the binder alone without the topcoat will eventually take on water and get punky. Better to spend the money up front and get it done right the first time!!!

 

[Streetcar]

What is binder asphalt? I am not familiar with this term
In your area what is the difference between light duty and heavy duty asphalt?
In Cincinnati it can either be the type of asphalt cement used or the gradation of the aggregate in the mix

 

[Buppies]

The main concern for any driveway is the stone base. A minimum of 5 or better yet six inches of stone is best. Asphalt will not support its own weight. Base asphalt here locally uses 57 size stone in the mix but will have voids so it is not recommended to be left exposed to the elements IM19 or intermediate can be left exposed to the elements. Again your stone base is most important and will go the further to insure the longevity of your driveway.

Depending on your area mixes are called different names but achieve the same function. With proper stone base the depth of asphalt can be less therefore less money out of pocket to you. My personal driveway has 6 inches of stone two inches of asphalt SM9.5 around here and has 5 axle dump trucks drive on it once a month with no damage in 8 years and they are loaded. Hope this helps

 

[Sprinklerman]

Get more quotes , but you give them the specifications you want done . Once you get the price , ask them OK how much for cash?

 

[Rustyiron]

Post #4, good advice. Along with that, I'd add, Kill (spray) all vegitation growing in your lane well prior to begining the job. Ask the "guy" what he has for a roller, proper compaction is critical along with the material temp of it when it comes out of the paver, it should arrive on the job at around 275-300 deg. Cold asphalt does not compact properly. I'm not familiar with your local terms, but for a driveway, 19mm stone (size) will do and can have a pretty nice "tight" finish and perfomes well as a one shot or single layer. A top or second pass of 9.5mm makes for a pretty finish. Both of these mix's will compact in depth at around a 1/4" per inch "laid". A guy that says he'll give you a 3" thick driveway can cheat you by either a lack of proper compaction (equipment and or timing) or too cold to properly get the proper compaction. Try to check out one of his jobs while he's doing it and bring a little IR thermo. If he's got a little static (non vibratory) roller with a honda engine on it, run.

 

[farmer2009]

Paving is not my specialty but it is Buppies. So I'll leave that part to him. But I will second the spraying in post #6. If I was doing anything as permanent as asphalt I'd want to max out the rate of Pramitol. Have it sprayed ahead of the paver. You don't want to give it a chance to run off. It's a ground sterilizer.

 

[bigtiller]

I have a 260' asphalt driveway. It was done on the cheap, about 10 years ago. It looks like dung now. If I were to add the cost of maintenance over the years, I could have pored a concrete drive myself for about the same money.

Have you priced concrete?

 

[Pirate]

Thought about it but went with concrete, 400', around 15K. 5.5" thick, 11' wide generally. I will be happy this winter.

 

[JDL538]

After 13 years of maintaining my 830 foot steep driveway I am finally going to have it paved. Got a quote and thought I would ask for input on what I should go with. Again, it is a steep drive with a parking area on top; also flaring at the bottom and at one switchback.


Paving price for drive only and upper part only with either 2 ｽ asphalt(Light duty) or with 2 ｽ asphalt binder then 1 ｽ asphalt topping(Heavy-duty)
Price includes grading drive then pave on existing stone.
Approx areas妖rive 1125 sq yds upper part 268 sq yds

1)drive to top L/D--$16,800
2)drive to top H/D--$25,000
3)upper part L/D--$4600
4)upper part H/D--$6890

If I use a binder asphalt, which is a coarser rock asphalt, and did 10 ft all the way to the top you would be looking at around $13,380.

The gravel road is very stable after 13 years of traffic and maintenance, so the question is: Since cost is an object I will not be spending $31,890 for HD from bottom to top, Do I go with 2.5 inches of binder asphalt for the 10 ft wide 830 ft. drive or the 2.5 in LD asphalt alone. The drive has normal traffic with only a propane truck 3 times per year and a septic removal truck every 5 years or so.

My blacktop is 900 ft. If I had to do it over I would have stayed with gravel.. Blacktop is always needing maintenance it looks good for 3 or 4 years . jmo