"New" B7100
- Thread starter Bluelick
- Start date
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Well, I guess it's a good thing I didn't straighten it out!
Any thoughts on how much of a problem it may be that it is overfilled a bit? I plan to change the oil soon but would like to do a bit of mowing first, and I'm going to have to drive to the Kubota dealer in another town to get the filter, and probably even to get the right oil. My local auto parts house seems to only carry 15w-40 diesel oil, not the 10w-30 that is recommended in the manual, and no sign of tractor filters here.
Any thoughts on how much of a problem it may be that it is overfilled a bit? I plan to change the oil soon but would like to do a bit of mowing first, and I'm going to have to drive to the Kubota dealer in another town to get the filter, and probably even to get the right oil. My local auto parts house seems to only carry 15w-40 diesel oil, not the 10w-30 that is recommended in the manual, and no sign of tractor filters here.
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Thanks Egon.
I'm going to fire it up, let the oil get circulating, then cut it off and check the oil level, should be lower that way. I'm guessing maybe it got topped up with the oil not all settled (book says wait five minutes). If the level is closer to right, then I would think that it should be OK to run it like that.
I'm going to fire it up, let the oil get circulating, then cut it off and check the oil level, should be lower that way. I'm guessing maybe it got topped up with the oil not all settled (book says wait five minutes). If the level is closer to right, then I would think that it should be OK to run it like that.
charlz
Elite Member
I looked all over for 10w-30 diesel oil. I just run the 15w-40 as was recommended by my Kubota dealer.
zman007007
Platinum Member
hey bluelick and congrats. if you have any more ? just email me I also have a B7100HST-E and it doesnt have 4 wheel drive. anyway I can help let me know. zman
zman007007@aol.com
zman007007@aol.comMowed about two acres tonight, it hadn't been mowed this year so it was way tall. I took it slow and kept the deck high, have to say the b7100 was a champ and it was good to get a feel for what it will do. However, I found the front pto that drives the deck would pop out of gear every minute or two, so I ended up driving with my foot on the lever. Any thoughts on this?
I also manged to get stuck by driving into a rut that swallowed the wheels and bottomed out the deck. After trying this and that for a half hour, I went to the house and came back with truck, shovel, chain and other implements of extremity. A few minutes with the shovel and I had the deck clear and drove out.
Thanks, this is a great board!
I also manged to get stuck by driving into a rut that swallowed the wheels and bottomed out the deck. After trying this and that for a half hour, I went to the house and came back with truck, shovel, chain and other implements of extremity. A few minutes with the shovel and I had the deck clear and drove out.
Thanks, this is a great board!
Thomas
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 32,295
- Location
- Lebanon,NH.
- Tractor
- Kubota B2650HSD w/Frontloader & CC LTX1046 & Craftman T2200 lawn mower.
The more you understand your little mule the easier it becomes to operate.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Sometimes for those little hangups a 2x4 used as pry bar works wonders.
The slipping out of gear will probably require a few new parts that will be determined if you pull it apart.
They make a great mowing machine.:thumbsup:
Remember, keep the rad clean.
The slipping out of gear will probably require a few new parts that will be determined if you pull it apart.
They make a great mowing machine.:thumbsup:
Remember, keep the rad clean.
Thanks, Egon. In the short term, I'm thinking that a bungie cord would keep me going until I can get into there. Maybe even better, fashion a stiff wire loop that I can slip over the handle when it's engaged. Other than being inconvenient, will that cause any further damage to use it that way?
If this was a Mercury outboard motor, I would say the teeth on the shift dog are rounded off from easing it into gear (no clutch on an outboard). If it's anything like that, I would expect that holding it in gear will be better for keeping it going than letting it slip out of gear which would wear the parts a little more every time it slips out under load.
Let me know if it would make more sense to start a new thread on the pto issue, and if so, where.
If this was a Mercury outboard motor, I would say the teeth on the shift dog are rounded off from easing it into gear (no clutch on an outboard). If it's anything like that, I would expect that holding it in gear will be better for keeping it going than letting it slip out of gear which would wear the parts a little more every time it slips out under load.
Let me know if it would make more sense to start a new thread on the pto issue, and if so, where.
Egon
Epic Contributor
[Other than being inconvenient, will that cause any further damage to use it that way?
/QUOTE]
Unfortunately that question exceeds my mechanical capabilities but I should imagine that held in place will not make it worse.
A new thread is entirely your option.
grossgary
Silver Member
replied in your other thread, i'll send you everything for this tractor when i get home from vacation.
i did a lot of reading and checking when i got mine and the 15-40 diesel Rotella is great oil for these tractors. keep it full and clean and you're golden.
yes - get the whistle so you know when it's overheating. mine only runs hot on a really hot day when i'm mowing backwards up an extremely steep incline - it's so steep that if i'm not in low range the tractors runs away from me - that's scarry stuff bouncing down a mountainside on a huge B7100. and cheap riding mower i'd just jump off! i cleaned out my radiator and replaced the front grill, so it might not do it anymore, i can't recall as i don't mow that hill very often.
i did a lot of reading and checking when i got mine and the 15-40 diesel Rotella is great oil for these tractors. keep it full and clean and you're golden.
yes - get the whistle so you know when it's overheating. mine only runs hot on a really hot day when i'm mowing backwards up an extremely steep incline - it's so steep that if i'm not in low range the tractors runs away from me - that's scarry stuff bouncing down a mountainside on a huge B7100. and cheap riding mower i'd just jump off! i cleaned out my radiator and replaced the front grill, so it might not do it anymore, i can't recall as i don't mow that hill very often.
I have started a new thread with my questions about the pto, it is located in the parts/repairs forum:
Kubota B7100 front pto jumps out of gear - TractorByNet.com
Kubota B7100 front pto jumps out of gear - TractorByNet.com
Next "new guy" question. I went to put air in the rear tires last night, and found the valve stems on the inside of the rims. Are the rims offset, and if I switch them will I have a wider track? Thanks!
Thomas
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 32,295
- Location
- Lebanon,NH.
- Tractor
- Kubota B2650HSD w/Frontloader & CC LTX1046 & Craftman T2200 lawn mower.
Can you contact last owner and ask why.
Maybe 80's B7100 can turn tires,but when I try turning tires around didn't have enough room..maybe turf tires tad wider.
Maybe 80's B7100 can turn tires,but when I try turning tires around didn't have enough room..maybe turf tires tad wider.
bp fick
Super Member
For those who want 10w-30 diesel rated oil, this Rotella T5 is available at your local Wally World for $15 a gallon, give or take. I cannot remember if WalMart has other brands, such as Chevron or Mobil in that weight.
Thanks for the tip on the oil, BP.
Thomas, there seems to be no info on the previous owner, the guy I got it from had bought it to sell, had it on CraigsList, but doesn't seem to know any history on it. Probably got it at an auction or estate sale. But I figure valves on the inside of the rims is a clue...
Thomas, there seems to be no info on the previous owner, the guy I got it from had bought it to sell, had it on CraigsList, but doesn't seem to know any history on it. Probably got it at an auction or estate sale. But I figure valves on the inside of the rims is a clue...
A couple of things.
1. Check the oil in the mower gearbox and fill to correct level. Watch the deck for oil leaks from the gear box for a couple of mowings. Replace seals if it leaks. Replacing gears can be expensive.
2. Keep the radiator and screen clean at all times and get that whistle. Keep the proper coolant mixture, not a week solution or the freeze plugs can rust out in the block.
3. Make sure you read the right range on the dipstick. The same stick was used in two engines.
4. If you have problems with the belt tension pulley on the deck, there is a little nylon block that Kubota has to help keep it from drooping.
5. Make sure the bolts on the real wheel hubs are really tightened down, so the wedge hold the hub in place on the axle. If the bolts are not tight and you lose the pins through the axle, you risk losing a wheel.
6. Keep a clean fuel filter in and once and a while drain and clean the fuel tank.
7. Get a spare mower belt. They always break when the dealer is closed.
8. If the hydro fluid is clean, leave the darn stuff alone. I replaced it in my 30 year old B7100 just once, and probably didn't need to do that.
9. Keep a collection of pins around for just about everything. They get lost like socks in the dryer.
9. Don't get An_l about this thing. Mine has spent 25 years outside, had one oil change, no engine rebuilds, no tranny rebuilds, no welds except one on the mid-mount deck. Starts every time, winter and summer. Sometime I think I would like it to stop doing what I bought it for (mowing),so I can get a new Zero Turn.
1. Check the oil in the mower gearbox and fill to correct level. Watch the deck for oil leaks from the gear box for a couple of mowings. Replace seals if it leaks. Replacing gears can be expensive.
2. Keep the radiator and screen clean at all times and get that whistle. Keep the proper coolant mixture, not a week solution or the freeze plugs can rust out in the block.
3. Make sure you read the right range on the dipstick. The same stick was used in two engines.
4. If you have problems with the belt tension pulley on the deck, there is a little nylon block that Kubota has to help keep it from drooping.
5. Make sure the bolts on the real wheel hubs are really tightened down, so the wedge hold the hub in place on the axle. If the bolts are not tight and you lose the pins through the axle, you risk losing a wheel.
6. Keep a clean fuel filter in and once and a while drain and clean the fuel tank.
7. Get a spare mower belt. They always break when the dealer is closed.
8. If the hydro fluid is clean, leave the darn stuff alone. I replaced it in my 30 year old B7100 just once, and probably didn't need to do that.
9. Keep a collection of pins around for just about everything. They get lost like socks in the dryer.
9. Don't get An_l about this thing. Mine has spent 25 years outside, had one oil change, no engine rebuilds, no tranny rebuilds, no welds except one on the mid-mount deck. Starts every time, winter and summer. Sometime I think I would like it to stop doing what I bought it for (mowing),so I can get a new Zero Turn.
RobertN
Super Member
Both of my tractors have been moderate hour used tractors. My previous Kubota I got with 425 hours on it, my current New Holland had 450 when I drove it home.
I would recomend that with a used tractor, especially a little older one, that you start with full fluid/filter changes. It is not too expensive, and you wil know what you have.
I would:
Change the air filter
Change engine oil/filter
Change fuel filter
Change hydro fluid, filter and clean the strainers if applicable
Change/flush the coolant, and clean the radiator fins
Change the front axle and gear reduction oils, grease every 10 hours in the future
Clean and grease every zerk fitting on the machine
I started using NAPA and Wix filter on my Kubota B8200 because they were easily available locally. I know the guy who bought thetractor from me; it is still going strong. I used Delo oil, and Valvoline hydro fluid.
Others have mentioned not changing the hydro fluid; I change mine at manufacture recomended intervals. Cheap compared to major repairs on a tractor...
There may be a lot of zerks in odd places. They are on levers, pedals, tie rod ends, front drive line...
Oh, and yes, the whistle. My B8200HSTD had one too.
Keep the fluids and filter clean, and it should give you good service.
I would recomend that with a used tractor, especially a little older one, that you start with full fluid/filter changes. It is not too expensive, and you wil know what you have.
I would:
Change the air filter
Change engine oil/filter
Change fuel filter
Change hydro fluid, filter and clean the strainers if applicable
Change/flush the coolant, and clean the radiator fins
Change the front axle and gear reduction oils, grease every 10 hours in the future
Clean and grease every zerk fitting on the machine
I started using NAPA and Wix filter on my Kubota B8200 because they were easily available locally. I know the guy who bought thetractor from me; it is still going strong. I used Delo oil, and Valvoline hydro fluid.
Others have mentioned not changing the hydro fluid; I change mine at manufacture recomended intervals. Cheap compared to major repairs on a tractor...
There may be a lot of zerks in odd places. They are on levers, pedals, tie rod ends, front drive line...
Oh, and yes, the whistle. My B8200HSTD had one too.
Keep the fluids and filter clean, and it should give you good service.
