New back blade user
- Thread starter roadtrash
- Start date
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Gary_in_Indiana
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2002
- Messages
- 3,373
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
- Tractor
- John Deere 4200 MFWD HST w/ JD 420 FEL w/ 61" loader bucket & toothbar & JD 37 BH w/ 12" bucket
Are you letting the 3PH drop all the way down with all of the blades weight on the ground or lowering it to a level you want and stopping it there? There's quite a difference in how it'll work for you each way.
slowrev
Elite Member
Also if you have draft control ? It can be tricky until you figure it out and then it is really handy.
I'm trying to smooth out a two track that washes out every time we have a hard rain, I don't have draft control so I try to adjust the blade height as I go, maybe that's where I'm making my mistake. Should I just make numerous passes dropping the blade a little with each pass? Thanks
slowrev
Elite Member
That's pretty much the way I do it. The smoother the road gets in front of the tractor the smoother the back blade results will be. A mid mount blade is much better for this type of work, not so much ups and downs. They are hard to find and fit-up though. My father in law has one on his old Avery. Works smooth just like a road grader.
markct
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2002
- Messages
- 893
- Location
- northfield connecticut
- Tractor
- gradall g3r excavator, kawasaki mule 2500,ford 8000,and a 1936 caterpillar road grader
yea having a blade in the middle is alot better, but it cant get up close to things like a back blade can, i own a cat grader and its nice for the driveway but ya cant clean up around the edges and stuff, so each is better in a way
trailertrash
Bronze Member
hey roadtrash:
I like your handle, are you a driver? Back to the subject, the best thing for you to do is practice and don't give up, nobody was born with the ability to cut a perfect grade even with the best of equipment, which a back blade is not. If you're trying to cut in a drive or something similar and you need it nice and flat or on a grade for drainage one thing that you've probaly found out is the tendancy to have ups and downs these blades don't have down pressure so you can't hardly control how deep they cut in virgin soil. This is what box blades with rippers were made for BUT I did'nt say you can't do it . One thing is a tiller run it where you want to work and then the loose soil is easy to or at least easier to grade you can also adjust your 3rd link to change how it cuts and also go different directions, not just back and forth but also crossways to get it at least broke up then put it where you want it. Try to change your angle on the blade sometimes the leading corner will dig and cut the whoop de do's out. remember it's a learning thing and you can't do it in one pass unless you have some very high dollar equipment . Take your time have fun
I like your handle, are you a driver? Back to the subject, the best thing for you to do is practice and don't give up, nobody was born with the ability to cut a perfect grade even with the best of equipment, which a back blade is not. If you're trying to cut in a drive or something similar and you need it nice and flat or on a grade for drainage one thing that you've probaly found out is the tendancy to have ups and downs these blades don't have down pressure so you can't hardly control how deep they cut in virgin soil. This is what box blades with rippers were made for BUT I did'nt say you can't do it . One thing is a tiller run it where you want to work and then the loose soil is easy to or at least easier to grade you can also adjust your 3rd link to change how it cuts and also go different directions, not just back and forth but also crossways to get it at least broke up then put it where you want it. Try to change your angle on the blade sometimes the leading corner will dig and cut the whoop de do's out. remember it's a learning thing and you can't do it in one pass unless you have some very high dollar equipment . Take your time have fun
slowrev
Elite Member
Markct,
Yes I agree they both have their uses. Hard to drag dirt off of a pile with a mid mount scraper. But the mid mounts are wonderful for grading/smoothing out a drive.
Yes I agree they both have their uses. Hard to drag dirt off of a pile with a mid mount scraper. But the mid mounts are wonderful for grading/smoothing out a drive.
Slamfire
Veteran Member
If you are trying to grade a road, set one end ahead of the other, lower that end, adjust the top link so the cutting edge of the blade trails the top a little bit. Now drive down the road with the leading edge at the edge of the road. The material you pick up will be rolled into the middle of the road. When you get to the end just do the other side of the road. Eventually, the road will begin to show a crown, that is be higher in the middle, so the water will run off to the edges. Now you'll have to decide where to turn the water out of the ditches you've made on the edges. I turn it out upstream of anyplace where the camber allows it to run all the way across the road. You can use the blade to make these turn outs, but I prefer to use a middle buster. Just lead the water away from the road. You won't have to go far it just get it lower than the edge of the road, it will spread out at the end of the turnout. Once you've got the grade and turnouts satisfactory, turn the blade around so you run it down the road backwards, that will smooth up the surface, then you can spread some gravel to firm up the surface. I like to use rocks about the size of walnuts for the first layer, and put smaller stuff on top after the first layer gets driven into the dirt/clay/sand. Crusher run, that is unwashed, gravel will firm up after a rain.
