New Branson 3520H

[Mr Bitz]

Ok, I think your confusing link/independent with 540/540E.
540 PTO you would run at full throttle rpm 2500ish 540E you would run at 1800 and still be pushing 540rpm out the PTO. The Link and independent your talking about is on or off dependent on where your 3 point hitch is set. When you switch your PTO switch to link your PTO will shut off when you lift the 3 point arms all the way up, when it's switched to independent it stays on regardless of where the 3 point arms are. If you look at the PTO levers below the seat you'll notice it'll say 540 or 540E and whichever you put the lever towards is the one it'll choose and then you can adjust your engine speed accordingly. If your running a wood chipper I would set it to 540 and get the Rpms up to 25-2600. Hope this helps.

 

[LouNY]

A question for you Mr Bitz, on my 8050 with the linked or Ind switch the 3 pt position does not shut it off. I have started using the linked as it is tied into my clutch activation.
We noticed this last summer on the tedder that the independent switch was slipping the slip clutch on the tedder every time it was switched on, when placed in link it seems to engage slower and softer. With heavier pto loads it is not as noticeable, such as my 8 ft brush hog. On the forage blower the link also seems to start it smoother. Any thoughts?

 

[Cougsfan]

Old Ford 8n's are what I think of as being "linked" where the rear wheels and PTO are tied together. On those tractors, if you were mowing with a bush hog, and stepped on the clutch to stop, the inertia of the bush hog would keep turning the rear wheels (often pushing you through a fence you probably didn't want to go through.) Newer "independent" PTO's had a 2 stage clutch that deactivated the wheels separately from the PTO. Much safer. On some planting operations, linked systems could be better because you want the drill timed exactly with the rear wheels. I am not sure what you have, but I would agree with Mr. Bitz. It is probably a 2 speed PTO with an option for a cut-out for when the three point is raised.

 

[Mr Bitz]

A question for you Mr Bitz, on my 8050 with the linked or Ind switch the 3 pt position does not shut it off. I have started using the linked as it is tied into my clutch activation.
We noticed this last summer on the tedder that the independent switch was slipping the slip clutch on the tedder every time it was switched on, when placed in link it seems to engage slower and softer. With heavier pto loads it is not as noticeable, such as my 8 ft brush hog. On the forage blower the link also seems to start it smoother. Any thoughts?

I'm not sure why it would seem to engage sower than the independent? I saw your post yesterday and was pondering it for a while. The only thing I can think of is (voltage). You see they set these clutch packs up so they don't engage instantly that could cause problems. How they do that is by (voltage). When you turn the switch on to activate the PTO it goes through a series of things one of them being solenoids and a voltage regulator of some sort it starts at a low voltage and gradually to a full 12 volt, and by gradually I mean a couple seconds. When turning on to link the only thing I can think of is that it now has to run through the clutch activation switch as well and it is delayed by a second or so or the voltage stays a bit lower longer. Your link to your 3 point obviously is not working there is a switch on the back by the rock shaft ( not sure on the 8050) but it should be they are usually on the left side of you sitting in the tractor. Hope this might of shed some light on your situation.

 

[Gafn]

Hey - reviving an old thread.... this is a 2015 3520H

Well it has been a workhorse for me, I am guessing about 500 hours on the clock...
however...
- It has never had a regen cycle - I do mostly PTO work, tiller, mower, etc, so I am not sure if it actually is working
- The gas gauge failed, while under warranty - the dealer basically did not give a chit... (he no longer owns the dealership)
- The Dash itself - failed - the hour meter resets often, so yo never know when my tractor will have Zero hours on it (Failed after warranty ran out)
- The primary hydro line between the pump and the pedal block blew - covered under warranty, but took 6 weeks to get a dang hose

So now the dealership sent out a flyer - under new ownership...
I reach out to the new service writer and tell him of my troubles, he calls Branson, and they tell him - repair the tractor under warranty
So, Branson is standing behind their product even if the previous dealership owner did not give a dang about services
The new owner is determined to have a good service shop, and actually have parts on hand, or at least next day shipping

I am currently waiting to get her back and see how the repairs went... but I say Great Job Branson - way to stand by your gear

 

[Aquamoose]

That’s GOOD to hear! How come you didn’t try going to another dealer for warranty service?

 

[ericm979]

It will never have a regen. Bransons don't do regen. Or rather they do a low temp continual regen. More correctly, it regens any time you operate the tractor so that the DPF gets hot enough. Since it's a low temp process it doesn't need the same heat that the more typical discrete regen needs.

Nice that Branson is standing behind the new dealer to get your stuff taken care of.

 

[Gafn]

Aquamoose - too far away

ericm979 - perhaps I used the incorrect words... the little light on the dashboard that shows an issue/alert with the DPF - has never illuminated on my tractor. So I am not sure if the light/sensors actually work.

 

[ericm979]

On mine the DPF light comes on when I turn the ignition on and goes out after a few seconds... about the same time the glow plug light goes out.
Of course that just tells me the light is working, not the temp and pressure sensors or the data logger.

 

[ning]

Aquamoose - too far away

ericm979 - perhaps I used the incorrect words... the little light on the dashboard that shows an issue/alert with the DPF - has never illuminated on my tractor. So I am not sure if the light/sensors actually work.

What do you use the tractor for?
I'm at ~170h and in very mixed use I've never seen the dash light except at start, but I suspect that even if I'm not often getting "hot enough" that I haven't sooted up that much. It's possible that your general use is sufficient to keep the soot burned off.