New built 3pt log splitter

   / New built 3pt log splitter #1  

bubbacuse77

Platinum Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
568
Location
Wisconsin
Tractor
John Deere 3520, John Deere X749
I have been using ideas from this site for years and thought it was time to give back....not to mention a few people asked to see the projects. I taught myself how to weld this year. My first project was an extra spool valve off the power beyond and this splitter is my first real fab project. Thanks to everyone on here I didn't have to learn from my own mistakes.

I have About $300 in it. It has a 4 inch ram with a prince LSR 3060 valve run off the power beyond. I am extremely happy with it. I haven't had anything it won't split and with this valve it has a fast cycle time of around 11 sec. I found that I really only need the full pressure setting when the wedge initally splits the wood.
 

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   / New built 3pt log splitter #2  
Nice work. What did you use for the beam?
 
   / New built 3pt log splitter #3  
Very nice. Professional build. Keep us posted on any changes you might make. As you use it more, you'll see things that need changed slightly, it's inevitable!!! :thumbsup:
 
   / New built 3pt log splitter #4  
I have been using ideas from this site for years and thought it was time to give back....not to mention a few people asked to see the projects. I taught myself how to weld this year. My first project was an extra spool valve off the power beyond and this splitter is my first real fab project. Thanks to everyone on here I didn't have to learn from my own mistakes.

I have About $300 in it. It has a 4 inch ram with a prince LSR 3060 valve run off the power beyond. I am extremely happy with it. I haven't had anything it won't split and with this valve it has a fast cycle time of around 11 sec. I found that I really only need the full pressure setting when the wedge initally splits the wood.

This looks really nice... Can you swap the valve and turn it upside down? you can repin the handle the oposite way and you'll get all that plumbing out of your way.....

Regards,
Chris
 
   / New built 3pt log splitter #5  
bubbacuse77,

Not trying to beat you up here, but read the below data.

What you have done looks very well built, and you say it is fast, but you should know that this valve was designed for low GPM's, about 4 to 5 GPM's, and the LSR valve will boost up the speed of operation. That in itself generates more heat. Now you are forcing about twice the recommended GPM's through the valve to get blazing fast cycle times.

The specs say they can get 25 GPM's for a 4 GPM input, then you are getting 53.75 GPM for the 8.6 GPM's.

I knew about the heat generated, and you might get away with high flow as the input for a while, but if used for a long time, the heat will damage things, verified by Prince engineers.

You already have 8.6 GPM's from your tractor hyd, and time for a 4 in cyl 2 in shaft.

Extend time 9.2 sec
Retract time 6.85 sec
Total cycle time 16.05 sec.
 
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   / New built 3pt log splitter #6  
At $300 you must be a master scrounger. :thumbsup:

For the next step, I'd suggest thinking about adding log tables.
 
   / New built 3pt log splitter #7  
What is the deal on this Prince LSR valve? Does it do something special to speed the stroke up? I ask because of the comments above , from J_J.
 
   / New built 3pt log splitter #8  
It used the regen function, whereas it adds the rod side fluid to the base end fluid, increasing the GPM, but less power.

If the log will not split, you back off the lever a bit and it goes to the power mode.
 
   / New built 3pt log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for all the replies fellas. To respond to everyone:

Oldboyscout- The beam is a smaller I beam I found in the heavy equipment junk yard.

Ovrszd- Your right if you look close at the pictures you will notice the extra bracing on both ends. first trip out the door my I got into some gnarly oak and it broke the welds as well I was noticing the 1x3 steel on the end of the cylinder bending ever so slightly. To tell you the truth I was worried the I beam was too small, but it doesn't even flex in the big stuff. Probably because the tractor only pushes 2500psi and I didn't go bigger than a 4 inch cylinder because I was worried about speed.

cmhyland- the valve can be turned upside down and I pondered it for a bit. The issue is that the 3060 lever works opposite of what other prince valves do. That is why you see the handle in the back. I like the handle in the back anyway to make sure it stays clear of any wood caught on the wedge. The hoses look like they would be in the way but they really are not.

JJ- MMMMMM- Good point I didn't even think about the 25 gpm being based on an input flow that was different. I assumed that was the flow through capacity for the open center. Your point about the heat is not lost on me I am already worried that the fluid is getting restricted passing through the open center of my aux spool valve on power beyond....see picture. I asked you about that one before. Before I started that project I looked at allot of guys adding rear remotes using the prince wolverine valve. It has a capacity of 8 gpm and the tractor in 8.6 gpm. That and all the extra 1/2" hose and fittings worry me a bit. None the less I test the heat with my hands on occasion and only once was I concerned about it. As for the LSR 3060......I was checking the heat on that also and I never really notice any temp rise. Maybe I don't use it long enough at one time to cause issues? The 3520 does have a 6.8 gallon fluid capacity and maybe that helps keep the heat down.

Kenny G- I am always scrounging metal scraps. I all metal with the exception of $60 worth was scrounged. The valve was $60. The cylinder was on sale for $180 from farm and fleet. I probably should add the $50 or so for fittings and paint.
I have some log supports but I really didn't want any more than what I put on it. It is really nice to lower the 3pt to the ground and roll the big one on it.
 
   / New built 3pt log splitter #10  
If your tractor produces 8.6gpm, that is only at wide open throttle (or perhaps at rated PTO rpm). Anything less than that rpm is producing less gpm. So I would say that if you have a slight restriction (valve rated 8gpm plus small hose diameters), it adds heat only when the engine rpm is high. Think about it, it really isn't hurting you. I bet you don't run it wide open when splitting. I don't on mine, cause I don't want the noise.
If you are getting 8.6gpm at 2800 engine rpm, then at 1400 engine rpm you are getting 4.3gpm. Happy splitting!!!
 

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