New built 3pt log splitter

[lostcause]

It is really nice to lower the 3pt to the ground and roll the big one on it.

i'm with you on that one. everyone has their preferences, but i prefer the lowering option to the vertical tilt option. fewer moving parts means it's a little simpler to build. it looks very similar to the little one i built a couple years ago - i know there's pics of mine on here so i won't repost them. yours is by far prettier though. my beam was welded together from two short pieces (free scrap is king) and as with many of my creations, it never got painted (yet). i always want to try things out before i paint them, and once they are in operationit's hard to go back to the clean and pretty mode.

i know it's all done and it looks great in the build, but the one thing i did with mine that i really like is that i made all three ears for the three point hitch end up in the same plane. what i mean is that i can stand mine up and it will balance perfectly on the three point hitch end. this makes it great for storing in the offseason. i find that most implements have a greater footprint than their height, and since floor space is always a premium, i like being able to stand it up in the corner of the building. only fakes up about 3-4 sq ft of floor that way.

 

[J_J]

bubbacuse77,

You are only running the cyl/valve is regen part time, so it might not be a problem.

You could put a temp gage on the hyd tank and monitor the temp. Between 180 and 200 degrees should be OK.

Not to worry about the flow going through the PB, as all cyl flow leaves the valve via the tank port and goes to tank. I hope you are sending the OUT/TANK port fluid to reservoir.

 

[bubbacuse77]

Jim- your right I don't run wide open most of the time and definately not for splitting wood. I have found that 1500 rpm works great.

Lost cause_ good point about storing it vertically. I'll think about that.

JJ- I did run the a return to sump on the backside of the rear spool valve. as I understand it. you need to have a return to sump and power beyond out on all valves but the last one in the series. for me that is my 3pt valve. My understanding is that the high pressure of the down stream valve can cause damage on backside of the upstream valve if you don't. This was a concern to me with the 3pt causing issues with the splitter valve but I wasn't going to spend $400 for a diffrent valve when I can spend $60 on this valve that I can replace 5 times over for that. Plus I didn't think the wieght of the splitter put much pressure on the 3pt.


does anyone know what the flow rating of 1/2 hose is at 2500 psi?

 

[J_J]

bubbacuse77,

Try this

http://www.gates.com/downloads/down...hicChart.pdf&folder=brochure&location_id=3047

I believe about 10 GPM.


Hose Purpose
Recommended Flow Speed (ft/s)
Intake/suction
2-4
Return
4-13
Pressure
7-18

Flow speeds at the lower end of the ranges should be used when designing for a continuous duty system. The inside diameter of the hoses should be chosen such that the needed flow rates can be supplied at fluid speeds within the acceptable ranges listed above. The following equation can be used to relate flow desired flow rate to hose diameter:

Q = D2 *V
4*231

Where Q is fluid flow rate in gallons per minute, D is the inside diameter of the hose in inches and V is fluid speed in feet per second.



http://www.cylinderservices.net/store.asp?pid=10726

 

[grsthegreat]

Great job...looks nice. I especially like the way you beefed up the bottom plate. I have only one question. Do you think that the two guides that you are using will get clogged up and perhaps prevent or jamb during continual use?

I only ask this cause that was the original design i was thinking about when i built mine. I ended up changing my design to this, so as not to get jambed up. took a little more time, but it does work great.

Again, nice looking job there.

 

[J_J]

Can someone explain why pipe flow is more than hose flow.

Hydraulic Reference - hydraulic calculations, hydraulic equivalents, hydraulic conversions, convert measurements, flow capacities, hydraulic fittings, threads per inch, pipe threads, cylinder calculations, pump calculation, motor calculations, thread

Go to, FLOW CAPACITIES OF HYDRAULIC LINES

 

[grsthegreat]

Can someone explain why pipe flow is more than hose flow.

Hydraulic Reference - hydraulic calculations, hydraulic equivalents, hydraulic conversions, convert measurements, flow capacities, hydraulic fittings, threads per inch, pipe threads, cylinder calculations, pump calculation, motor calculations, thread

Go to, FLOW CAPACITIES OF HYDRAULIC LINES

Hmmm, do both have the exact same internal dimensions??? Does the rubber restrict any flow over the steel??

 

[J_J]

It must have something to do with the smoothness of the fluid walls. I guess steel is smother than rubber, and perhaps the answer. Less adhesion ???

 

[wdchyd]

I think they are considering the fittings crimped on the hose are smaller in dia......thus 20 feet per second at the smallest diameter at the fittings

 

[Redneck in training]

My wild guess is that the pipes are considered straight while hoses are rarely straight. Beside moving forward the fluid also rotates in curves adding resistance and increasing losses.