New Chainsaw Question

   / New Chainsaw Question
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Thanks again to all those posting here. I am finding this a very interesting thread. I do most of my limbing and trimming with the little Echo 300, and I will be keeping the 500 VL as well, (in view of the fact that selling older saws without chain brakes around here raises liability issues) so the larger saw will likely be used almost exclusively for bucking large downed trees and the rare felling of something (like the hemlock that broke off at 20 feet) that I feel comfortable with. I will get pros to do the felling of the big trees I need taken down, but most of my firewood gathering is the result of trees that the storms take down. The new saw should get pretty heavy usage during the cool and cold months. I don't generally deal with this kind of work when it's warm out, and there is always much else to do. The rare exception would be when a storm brings down a tree in summer that's in the way. I like to leave the woods to the snakes and bees in the heat, and deal with firewood whenever there isn't too much snow.

There is the possibility of doing some harvesting of reasonable sized trees in my woodlot if necessary (if I run out of windfalls and sick ones to take down) but that would mostly be limited to trees of modest size, ten to 14 inch diameter. I'm estimating I'm looking at several years' supply in the big maples that need to come down here, and cutting them will be the first big use of the new saw.

At my advanced age, I would fully expect any of the saws I have considered to be a lifetime purchase, barring a real bad draw of a lemon, heaven forbid.
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #63  
Here in Timber country, the fallers use both the husky and Stihl saws. I have several Stihl saws, some over 30 years old. I do have a local dealer, and the only parts I have needed were air filters, they seem to last forever. Some of these guys run 48-72 inch bars on the saws. I am way to old to try that, but I do have a Stihl 064 with a 48 inch bar that starts right up, and is way to heavy for me to use very long. The most used saws that I have are the 023's with the 16 inch bar. They weigh almost nothing, and will tackle up to a 28 inch thick log, if you go at it from both sides. I only cut fire wood, but will sometimes take a log or 2 to the mill to make some boards. The Echo, have always seemed to me to be a "Harry Homeowner" type of saw. I don't think that the Sthil, or Husky's are that more money, and you might save some weight.

Just My 2 cents.
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #64  
The Echo, have always seemed to me to be a "Harry Homeowner" type of saw. I don't think that the Sthil, or Husky's are that more money, and you might save some weight.

Just My 2 cents.

i paid $ 599 for a shindaiwa 757 (73.6 cc)

the husky 372xp was $1100

compound the provincial and federal taxes ( 15%) and you get exactly 2 shindaiwa for the price of one husky....easy choice

i am in canada, it may differ where you are
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #65  
I've owned or spent considerable time using a JD ~56cc, Echo ~56cc, Stihl MS290 (again 56.5cc), Stihl MS250 (~45cc) and a Dolmar 7900 (78.5cc). Each of these saws was the only saw I had when I was using them. Unless I'm going to climb, I'd take the 7900 every time. It may be a little heavier (esp. with the 28" bar) but when the job takes less than half as long, the weight seems like a non issue. Plus the vibration control is awesome. And I just love a 28" bar, perfect for cutting smaller stuff on the ground without bending over. If I had all of these saws at once, I would probably use the 7900, 95% of the time and the MS250 5% of the time (for climbing & overhead limbing) and never touch the others.

I agree 100%.

I'll take the larger and quicker saw every time.

Of all the saws from all the MFG's in the 50cc-79cc range, there is maybe 2-3lb difference.

I would rather hold onto a 13-14 lb saw in the 70cc range (like the 7900 or 372xp) and get through the wood in about 1/2 the time as a 11-12lb 50cc saw.

And everyone aways mentions weight, well at least for me it is mostly a non issue. Because if I have the saw in my hands bucking up firewood, at least 70% of the time the bar is in the cut, and the wood is supporting most of the weight as the saw is cutting. If I am not cutting, I'll set the saw down. And for me, a 24" bar is about perfect as to not have to bend over when cutting smaller stuff. My ~14lb 7900 or 372xp both have a 24" bar. They are easier on my back than ann the other saws I have that wear 14-20" bars. Because a saw can be 5lb light but if I have to bend over......
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #66  
i paid $ 599 for a shindaiwa 757 (73.6 cc)

the husky 372xp was $1100

compound the provincial and federal taxes ( 15%) and you get exactly 2 shindaiwa for the price of one husky....easy choice

i am in canada, it may differ where you are

It looks like you got a heck of a deal on the 757 and they tried to take you to the cleaner on the 372.

Down here, the 757 sells for between 600 and 700, depending on where you look. The 372 sels for 750-850. So it is only a few hundo difference down here, NOT $500.

But IMO, the best value on a saw that can still pull a 24" bar well is still the dolmar/makita 6400. The Makita version can still be had online for $499.
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #67  
At least it looks like Husky has held the line pretty good on prices, but I suppose lots of competition drives that. I paid around $750 for my 372XP about 8 years ago. It's probably got less than 10 hours on it to date, and like most of my tools will far and away outlast me. The Husky 435 I got for Christmas Saturday makes a nice lightweight limb/trim companion, now I can finally retire my 30 year old underpowered 16" Homelite.
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #68  
You guys keep talking about a 24 inch bar and I've never even seen one outside of TV. 16 inch is max for me.
How do these cut? How do they handle and what do they feel like?
Doesn't the bar get pinched all the time?
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #69  
You guys keep talking about a 24 inch bar and I've never even seen one outside of TV. 16 inch is max for me.
How do these cut? How do they handle and what do they feel like?
Doesn't the bar get pinched all the time?

In the bigger saws in the 70cc range, they actually balance well and feel good with the 24" bar.

And they are not any more proned to getting pinched than a shorter bar. Unless you are cutting from piles and just blindly burrying the bar into the pile, which is bad technique.

When cutting larger stuff 16"-20" diameter logs or so, It doesnt pinch any easier than a smaller one. You just have to be cautious of where the tip is. You dont want it catching another log and kicking back, or burrying into the dirt and dulling the chain. But it is all what you get used to.
 
   / New Chainsaw Question #70  
I agree 100%.

I'll take the larger and quicker saw every time.

Of all the saws from all the MFG's in the 50cc-79cc range, there is maybe 2-3lb difference.

I would rather hold onto a 13-14 lb saw in the 70cc range (like the 7900 or 372xp) and get through the wood in about 1/2 the time as a 11-12lb 50cc saw.

And everyone aways mentions weight, well at least for me it is mostly a non issue. Because if I have the saw in my hands bucking up firewood, at least 70% of the time the bar is in the cut, and the wood is supporting most of the weight as the saw is cutting. If I am not cutting, I'll set the saw down. And for me, a 24" bar is about perfect as to not have to bend over when cutting smaller stuff. My ~14lb 7900 or 372xp both have a 24" bar. They are easier on my back than ann the other saws I have that wear 14-20" bars. Because a saw can be 5lb light but if I have to bend over......

It is not just the weight of the saw that creates the issue. I've seen guys in their mid sixties who cut wood for a living wield a 372 all day long. It is a combination of things such as muscular endurance of the operator, how they control their saws ( a guy who limbs with a bit of extension in his arms gets much more tired than one who uses a close to body technique,) how fast someone whips around a saw also brings into account inertial forces that even half a pound can make a difference after several hours of cutting so cutting techniques play a much larger role than pure weight as far as ability matching to saws. Most guys who are the occasional users do not spend even two hours at a time cutting wood before they are showing dangerous signs of fatigue and with a larger saw? less than 15 minutes. Hopefully,they simply stop and continue at another time period so weight to time may not always factor in especially for the retired guy. What is true is that bucking does not bring to bear the weights of saws but is that all this saw is going to do?
Anytime I give saw advice it is always from a standpoint of the operator giving clues to their own individual usage factor and not from what I have seen others accomplish with any chainsaw. The variables are very large. What suits one guy may be an absolute horror show for another and the reality is: hardly any of us really knows who their giving advice to so temperance (as far as chainsaws go) might be a good fit.
 

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