Oil & Fuel New CK30 Owner and New to Forum

jrkaye · Oct 1, 2014

Please forgive my ignorance as this is the first tractor, besides a Deere L118 rider mower I ever owned/operated. I went from a few missteps to Triple A proficiency in about 7 tractor hours without leveling block walls (though I did clip one corner that will need repair

). Ok so, on the rear of the CK30 is the fill and dipstick for the hydraulics, am I correct? The liquid is so clear it's hard to see the exact level.

I've read the manual numerous times and certain things simply aren't very clear for a rookie. Recommended hydraulic fluid? Recommended Engine Oil is 10-40W I think but need to reread chapters in the manual. MY main concern is the rear fill and dipstick by the PTO. Am I correct in my assumption this is hydraulics only? Did I miss something?

You are faced with the most basic rookie on planet earth on tractor operation and maintenance, be gentle please

k0ua · Oct 1, 2014

jrkaye said:
Please forgive my ignorance as this is the first tractor, besides a Deere L118 rider mower I ever owned/operated. I went from a few missteps to Triple A proficiency in about 7 tractor hours without leveling block walls (though I did clip one corner that will need repair ). Ok so, on the rear of the CK30 is the fill and dipstick for the hydraulics, am I correct? The liquid is so clear it's hard to see the exact level.

I've read the manual numerous times and certain things simply aren't very clear for a rookie. Recommended hydraulic fluid? Recommended Engine Oil is 10-40W I think but need to reread chapters in the manual. MY main concern is the rear fill and dipstick by the PTO. Am I correct in my assumption this is hydraulics only? Did I miss something?

You are faced with the most basic rookie on planet earth on tractor operation and maintenance, be gentle please

Look in your manual for the specific hydraulic/tractor fluid.. It IS a special fluid rated for use with hydraulics and wet brakes.. My DK35se manual specifies several brands. I use Mobilefluid 424. The engine oil goes (must be a diesel rated oil I uses Shell Rotella) into the fill cap up by the injector pump. An orange rubber twist cap.

The hydraulic fluid runs several things, all of the hydraulics on the tractor, including the Front End Loader (FEL), and the Three point lift on the rear of your tractor and any auxiliary hydraulic ports you may have, as well as cooling and lubrication for a standard transmission, and also operating fluid for a hydrostatic transmission. It is all a common sump, and is considered the "tank" in the hydraulic system. The front axle does not share in this fluid, as it is it's own closed system reservoir.

Welcome to TBN, and please continue asking any questions you have, no matter how "silly" you may think they are, as we are here to help you.

jrkaye · Oct 1, 2014

k0ua said:
Look in your manual for the specific hydraulic/tractor fluid.. It IS a special fluid rated for use with hydraulics and wet brakes.. My DK35se manual specifies several brands. I use Mobilefluid 424. The engine oil goes (must be a diesel rated oil I uses Shell Rotella) into the fill cap up by the injector pump. An orange rubber twist cap.

The hydraulic fluid runs several things, all of the hydraulics on the tractor, including the Front End Loader (FEL), and the Three point lift on the rear of your tractor and any auxiliary hydraulic ports you may have, as well as cooling and lubrication for a standard transmission, and also operating fluid for a hydrostatic transmission. It is all a common sump, and is considered the "tank" in the hydraulic system. The front axle does not share in this fluid, as it is it's own closed system reservoir.

Welcome to TBN, and please continue asking any questions you have, no matter how "silly" you may think they are, as we are here to help you.

Thank you James. So the dipstick on the left side rear, and the fill cap ARE the Hydraulic check and fill specifics? If you have children and they ask a question, think of me in that same light, for the moment

. We've owned the property since '08 and when the house was built in '82 that was the last time grading, leveling, weed control and a myriad of other things were performed with a tractor. Old folks that passed away and only took care of the house. It's been quite a task to get it looking decent but the drought retarded growth, then we experienced a welcomed rain event for 12 some days that pointed out problem areas that I can correct with this nifty tractor. Don't laugh but except for sitting on a IH some years ago, I'd never been on, let alone operated a tractor in my life. Most work was done by back breaking work. I finally said enough already :laughing: . I have 4 horses in pasture that wasn't even fenced until we bought the place. that's going to be another whole ball of wax and attachment. I AM loving this tractor, it's not too much, not too little and is surprisingly powerful for what is considered a "compact" tractor. My neighbor are cotton farmers so they run the BIG stuff. Thanks again for any tricks/tips/gimmicks I may need to adhere to.

Regards,

Jeff

k0ua · Oct 1, 2014

Yes, the dipstick and the fill cap on the back are ONLY for the specified hydraulic fluid. Check the dipstick on level ground only with all Hydraulic implements in the down position. (FEL down on the ground and 3 point down on the ground) This will give you an accurate reading. If you FEL is up for instance, that means the hydraulic cylinders have been filled with fluid from the "tank" and therefore the "tank" level will be lower. As you lower the cylinders the fluid is expelled from them back into the "tank" raising the fluid level on the dipstick.

On a second note, have you been following the maintaince schedule. As to oil and filter, hydraulic fluid and filter(s) (two filters if you have a hydrostatic transmission) and fuel filter?

How many hours, on the beast and how much maintenance have you performed. Greasing the loader grease zerks every 10 hours?.. Chassis zerks every 50? Have you checked wheel bolt torque every 50 when new, and every 100 thereafter? Loader bolt torque?. clutch free play if equipped, ( I don't have one on my Kioti)?

I am just full of questions aren't I?

But if you take care of your tractor, it will serve you well for a very long time.

Ask any questions you like, if you don't understand something.

jrkaye · Oct 1, 2014

She's brand spanky new and spent her first 3+ hours brush hogging, then the next some front loader work up to JUST now 7 hours. I've followed the book religiously by a slow throttle and break in period rather than trying to exceed RPM's and all that. I think I spent 2 running hours on the front bucket learning and experimenting so as not to damage the machine nor any standing structure

. Thank you again for alleviating any concerns about the hydraulics, I had a good notion but thought it wise to consult folks that have this down to a science. Much appreciated. My dealer has been great but he's got a business to run and doesn't need me calling every hour. His son delivered and went through the basics and watched me until he thought I wouldn't harm the machine or worse.

Jeff

murphy1244 · Oct 1, 2014

Welcome to TBN and the Pack

Check your wheel bolts and loader bolts for proper torque.

jrkaye · Oct 1, 2014

murphy1244 said:
Welcome to TBN and the Pack

Check your wheel bolts and loader bolts for proper torque.

Good point, thank you.

lockhaven · Oct 1, 2014

is the tractor hydrostatic or geared? I have a geared CK30

jrkaye · Oct 1, 2014

Geared CK30

k0ua · Oct 1, 2014

If you haven't found out already working in close proximity to buildings, a tractor can tear up buildings and corners and doors in a hurry! Tree bark is not safe either, nor flower beds, or mailboxes..etc.:laughing: