Oil & Fuel New CK30 Owner and New to Forum

[jrkaye]

If you haven't found out already working in close proximity to buildings, a tractor can tear up buildings and corners and doors in a hurry! Tree bark is not safe either, nor flower beds, or mailboxes..etc.:laughing:

Learned my lesson fast with the front end bucket a tad too high so that I could see above and below. Probably $400 damage to some cinder block work (I didn't like that part of the wall anyway). That was lesson #1) Within 2 hours of my ownership. Yep, I was more than upset but called the little woman to say..."OOPS"...she just said "your dime to fix the wall and pay better attention". The next 5 hours were pure pleasure. A wonderful machine and certainly capable of what I need to do. More attachments like a post hole digger and perhaps a back hoe ? I'll be downright dangerous. One baby step at a time for me. No hurry and just want to maintain the investment in good condition with proper fluid levels. I admit to having some concerns about brand but this Kiotii and it's 4 year warranty, well, good bang for the buck.

The brush hog has already paid for itself, the front end loader as well and I still have the box blade waiting for a test. Think of a gravel/stone drive that over the years went to seed from weed/ wild grass and too much for a guy to hoe, spray and maintain every year to just keep a slight perimeter. West Texas heat and I don't agree . My main driveway is asphalt that runs ~ 500 feet in the front, the circular cuts off halfway, past a RV barn and back to the main road all stone/gravel but way too overgrown. AH, I feel the need to smile, finally, that I have the equipment to handle the issue....money well spent, I thought.

I embrace any and all comments and tips. I've never been so out of my comfort zone with a piece of equipment that can, potentially, do major damage, if not careful. I know where my underground lines are, I'm aware of break in period and I will practice a lot on the land that's pretty much "let her rip" property. Can't wait to excavate for a personal gun range now that I can move dirt/railroad ties and assorted material to make it safe. Being in the middle of nowhere, I have room to play

 

[DK35vince]

I admit to having some concerns about brand but this Kiotii and it's 4 year warranty, well, good bang for the buck.

When I bought my DK 35 (13 years ago) I had some concern also, because there were very few Kioti tractors in my area at the time.
But 13 years and nearing 1900 hours, my Kioti DK has been awesome.
Never gives me any problems and works great.

 

[k0ua]

A set of lightweight pallet forks, can be helpful with your railroad ties. Grapple of course is cooler, but more investment in hydraulics. Yes tractors are cool, but just like guns you have to respect the power.

 

[lockhaven]

remember the shuttle shift is not an automatic. you need to STOP before changing directions. Only use 4 wheel drive when it is necessary never on hard dry surfaces. You will find that the 4X4 lever does not disengage as easy as it engages, I push the clutch in and let the tractor drift in the opposite direction you were going. This relieves the pressure on the gears, as it slowly drifts just a few inches are required, I use my right heal to push the lever down to disengage. When carrying heavy loads in the loader or any time for that matter keep the loader bucket as low as possible. With heavy loads do not drive fast, the tractor will get to bouncing and with a load it causes tremendous stress on the loader arms. If you are picking up something with a chain be sure the chain is hooked as near center on the loader as possible and never out side the loader arms. just a few suggestions from the east.:drink:

 

[k0ua]

When carrying heavy loads in the loader or any time for that matter keep the loader bucket as low as possible.

If you learned nothing else from this thread, this one thing above will do more for keeping the shiny side up and the dirty side down on your new tractor than any thing else I can think of.

 

[chuck172]

You might not know, I didn't at first, but you have a two stage clutch. That means you don't have to push down all the way to shift from forward to reverse. Same as to shifting gears. Just a light short push with your left leg, and shuttle.

 

[TJP89]

Geared CK30

I'm curious, why did you go with a geared over HST? Most people have a reason for the gear tranny, and must new users (including me) go for the HST. Just wondering why you went gear.

 

[jrkaye]

I'm curious, why did you go with a geared over HST? Most people have a reason for the gear tranny, and must new users (including me) go for the HST. Just wondering why you went gear.

I compared price points, loads, potential usage, availability, attachment options and maintenance and while most were pretty close side by side I went with the CK30 versus the CK35 that a friend of mine owns. I gave up a little on the lift/load capacity but overalll bought what I believed was the model for my use and price range. The dealer was most helpful in answering questions and in his opinion agreed that the CK 30 would be the best suited for me. That said I had originally looked at the DS3510 as it was cheaper but this is the last year they are being offered and it didn't stack up to the CK30. Personal decision for the investment. We scored the front end loader free by not financing. I bought the box blade and brush hog as these are 2 attachments that are critical for what I need to do. FWIW, the horse shelter has never been more cleaned out and leveled than it was as of yesterday's adventure into front end work in a small space. NO ACCIDENTS I'm getting the hang of it. 8 hours into operation and nothing is rattling, dirty, loose and I've finished off 4 major "honey do's" . That, gentlemen, makes for a happy camper.

 

[jrkaye]

remember the shuttle shift is not an automatic. you need to STOP before changing directions. Only use 4 wheel drive when it is necessary never on hard dry surfaces. You will find that the 4X4 lever does not disengage as easy as it engages, I push the clutch in and let the tractor drift in the opposite direction you were going. This relieves the pressure on the gears, as it slowly drifts just a few inches are required, I use my right heal to push the lever down to disengage. When carrying heavy loads in the loader or any time for that matter keep the loader bucket as low as possible. With heavy loads do not drive fast, the tractor will get to bouncing and with a load it causes tremendous stress on the loader arms. If you are picking up something with a chain be sure the chain is hooked as near center on the loader as possible and never out side the loader arms. just a few suggestions from the east.:drink:

I'm very familiar with clutch and reversing directions as a child of the 60's when muscle cars and I enjoyed many a mile. A clutch is a clutch is a clutch, if you get my drift. Unless I was speed shifting to impress the gal in the passenger seat, I realized replacing clutches wasn't on my top 10 things to do . Slow, clutch, stop, change, ease clutch and slow start. I need this tractor to last quite some time

 

[Ranchofla]

If you haven't found out already working in close proximity to buildings, a tractor can tear up buildings and corners and doors in a hurry! Tree bark is not safe either, nor flower beds, or mailboxes..etc.:laughing:

Don't forget other vehicles....

Rancho