New DK40SE Thusday

[CowwFace]

What's involved in removing the detent balls? Been hating that detent for about 140 hrs now.

Hey Tulenutn,

It's pretty easy to take them out, I wish I would have taken pictures..

I just removed the 8 or 9 gold bolts that hold the seat cover on. The seat is HEAVY so I just lifted the front edge up (like hood on a car) and used a ratchet strap attached to the ROPS to keep it held up. Then on the starboard side of the tractor you will see the valve (you can jiggle the remote lever and see exactly where it goes). I just used a crescent wrench to loosen the larger jam nut and then easily spin off the cover.

There are 4 steel balls (one larger and three smaller) with a spring behind the larger ball. After you spin the cover off remove the small ball's with a magnet, then used magnet to pull larger ball out of the center hole.. then Use a clean drywall screw to pull the spring out of the center hole. Spin the valve cover back on and tighten the jam nut. In my case the Jam nut was painted to the cover so well that I did not have to worry about any adjustments in the cover. Put the seat back down and replace the gold bolts and you are good to go. Longest step was getting the strap on to hold the seat up... took about 20 min's start to finish.

Tractor on.

 

[IslandTractor]

3: Remove the detent balls from the rear remote leaver... unless you plan on using a backhoe.. If the lever gets stuck in the A or B position: it makes the tractor VERY difficult to start, and could damage the pump.
.

Not sure about this. Why should the lever get stuck? Mine sticks in A or B only if I put it there.

If you are worried about accidentally leaving it engaged, then just add a small loop of hose from the supply port to the return port.
Certaunly use the tractor for a while before making changes.

 

[tulenutn2o]

Hey Tulenutn,

It's pretty easy to take them out, I wish I would have taken pictures..

I just removed the 8 or 9 gold bolts that hold the seat cover on. The seat is HEAVY so I just lifted the front edge up (like hood on a car) and used a ratchet strap attached to the ROPS to keep it held up. Then on the starboard side of the tractor you will see the valve (you can jiggle the remote lever and see exactly where it goes). I just used a crescent wrench to loosen the larger jam nut and then easily spin off the cover.

There are 4 steel balls (one larger and three smaller) with a spring behind the larger ball. After you spin the cover off remove the small ball's with a magnet, then used magnet to pull larger ball out of the center hole.. then Use a clean drywall screw to pull the spring out of the center hole. Spin the valve cover back on and tighten the jam nut. In my case the Jam nut was painted to the cover so well that I did not have to worry about any adjustments in the cover. Put the seat back down and replace the gold bolts and you are good to go. Longest step was getting the strap on to hold the seat up... took about 20 min's start to finish.

Tractor on.

Thanks for the info! I installed the second set of remotes and didn't even think about the detent then. Kickin' meself hard now. Oh well, Since it's so easy to take care of, I will get on that when the snow flies and the shop is warmed up.:thumbsup:

 

[grsthegreat]

Not sure about this. Why should the lever get stuck? Mine sticks in A or B only if I put it there.

If you are worried about accidentally leaving it engaged, then just add a small loop of hose from the supply port to the return port.
Certaunly use the tractor for a while before making changes.

i have to leave the detents in place...cause i use a rear mounted log splitter. but i did once leave the valve in detent accidentally while test driving the tractor...man the tractor started hard

 

[VictorW]

Not sure about this. Why should the lever get stuck? Mine sticks in A or B only if I put it there.

If you are worried about accidentally leaving it engaged, then just add a small loop of hose from the supply port to the return port.
Certaunly use the tractor for a while before making changes.

My detents are still in and haven't had a problem. I check mine when starting and putting it away. If the valve was accidentally bumped in the detent position while running, I can easily tell with the hst drive on my CK30hst. It will definately feel like the tractor has no power. I use the detent for my bh. Also the same valve for a power angle fel mounted snow blade. You'll get the feel for the valve after using it a few times. If you're worried about the pump, the hose does the trick and the detent will be there if you need it. But, to each their own.