New EA Land Plane(LPGS)

[EverythingAttachments]

Why would you go backward??
I thought the goal was to make the next generation stronger, better, and more capable!!??

I want one that is stronger, better, and more capable than your current offerings,,, :thumbsup:

I don't see it as going backwards. We are broadening our offerings and filling holes(no pun ) in our lineup. These are more for ideal for smaller tractors and customers who do not need the extra HD models with solid welded category 1&2 combination hitches.

Price is also a factor, but quality is always at the top of our priorities, which is why we put premium, US Made ripper shanks and cutting edges on everything. The steel in our factory is a minimum of A572. Ted does not allow A36 through the doors!
Travis

 

[CCWKen]

I just wish you guys lived closer. I'm outside the 1000-mile family circle.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I just wish you guys lived closer. I'm outside the 1000-mile family circle.

We have as many customers in Texas as any other state, so don't be discouraged. People on the left coast are even amazed at our great freight rates!

We do not have an online calculator because we like to personally figure it so you're sure to get the cheapest rate possible, so feel free to give us a call or send an email anytime! Our sales team does not receive a sales based commission. We know our product well, but we are far from high pressure!
Travis

 

[biodegraded]

A short story. I really wanted a wicked root grapple. There is simply so far no comparison offering with the strength vs weight. Someone actually *engineered* the thing instead of simply weld plates of whatever steel was lying around together. Trouble is, I live 45 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Just a wee bit out of their range. I almost didn't ask them for a quote, but am glad I did. Travis came back within an hour for a shipping quote of $92. Ninety-two bucks to ship that thing 2700 miles. The rest is history, so to speak. I absolutely love the grapple which sees hard use, but also of note is that shipping even out here need not be prohibitive. YMMV.

 

[bdog]

Regarding the level road if you want a crown adjust your three point so that the left side is higher than the right. Drive down the road (with a unit half the width of the road) on the right side and when you get to the end drive back on the right side again. You will end up with a crown.

 

[Tomtint]

The scarifiers really add versatility, so I've heard.

Can anyone who has used both share some thoughts?
Travis

I have a BEFCO version. The rippers make a big difference getting rid of pot holes. Also the 2nd angle blade is a must for final smoothing the surface. .02

 

[NHbotanut]

I have the Land Pride version. I only use the rippers when the driveway is extremely hard packed. I have never come close to using them in their full extension. A couple of passes with the rippers & then I put them up as the plane does the rest.

 

[CCWKen]

I don't dare touch my drive when it's dry. Anything I loosen up will end up in the culverts or at the bottom of the hill on the first rain. I do repairs two or three days after a rain while the sandy-clay is damp and will repack. For this reason, I'm torn between a box blade and a land plane. I typically need to move quite a bit of dirt around. I've been using a small dozer (JD-420C) to repair the culverts and wash-outs every year. Sometimes 2-3 times a year. My problem is it's hard to get a smooth road even when back-dragging the blade on float since the clay packs so easily. I end up with a rolling washboard surface. I try to work across the road and at a diagonal to get the highs and lows even but it takes a week or more to do the whole drive. By that time, I'm moving around powder. I don't have to way to wet it down again so if a hard rain comes, it's gone. If I get it smooth and packed while it's damp, it hardens like concrete. This is why I thought a land plane would work better. But I don't think it will get the ripples/waves out unless it's extra long.

It's not a steep slope--About a 10-12' drop over the 1300'. There's a few curves in the road that I contoured the culverts to route the water away from the road and into the property. I have to work these too as they fill with silt.

So, box blade, land plane or both? Perhaps neither and build a water tank sprayer. The work is taking it's toll on the old JD dozer so I'd like to be able to use a tractor for the work.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

A short story. I really wanted a wicked root grapple. There is simply so far no comparison offering with the strength vs weight. Someone actually *engineered* the thing instead of simply weld plates of whatever steel was lying around together. Trouble is, I live 45 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Just a wee bit out of their range. I almost didn't ask them for a quote, but am glad I did. Travis came back within an hour for a shipping quote of $92. Ninety-two bucks to ship that thing 2700 miles. The rest is history, so to speak. I absolutely love the grapple which sees hard use, but also of note is that shipping even out here need not be prohibitive. YMMV.

Great story! That's what I'm talkin about!
Travis

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I don't dare touch my drive when it's dry. Anything I loosen up will end up in the culverts or at the bottom of the hill on the first rain. I do repairs two or three days after a rain while the sandy-clay is damp and will repack. For this reason, I'm torn between a box blade and a land plane. I typically need to move quite a bit of dirt around. I've been using a small dozer (JD-420C) to repair the culverts and wash-outs every year. Sometimes 2-3 times a year. My problem is it's hard to get a smooth road even when back-dragging the blade on float since the clay packs so easily. I end up with a rolling washboard surface. I try to work across the road and at a diagonal to get the highs and lows even but it takes a week or more to do the whole drive. By that time, I'm moving around powder. I don't have to way to wet it down again so if a hard rain comes, it's gone. If I get it smooth and packed while it's damp, it hardens like concrete. This is why I thought a land plane would work better. But I don't think it will get the ripples/waves out unless it's extra long.

It's not a steep slope--About a 10-12' drop over the 1300'. There's a few curves in the road that I contoured the culverts to route the water away from the road and into the property. I have to work these too as they fill with silt.

So, box blade, land plane or both? Perhaps neither and build a water tank sprayer. The work is taking it's toll on the old JD dozer so I'd like to be able to use a tractor for the work.

You may need both, but without any doubt in my mind, get a LPGS to start with. Next thing, if you want it to work the best that it can, it needs to weigh over 150lbs per foot width. Pretty tough to find other than a Road Boss unit, but they are quite costly. I have 2 units myself, a 5 footer that weighs 800lbs and a 7 footer that weighs 1400lbs. They both work very well. No rippers, haven't ever needed them, but that may just be my conditions.