New Garage/Barn, hole to roof

   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #1  

whodat90

Silver Member
Joined
May 4, 2006
Messages
241
Location
Purcellville, Va
Tractor
B7200D, B8200D
A while back my wife and I moved from the city out to the country (at least it was before all these mcmansions started popping up everywhere) with a little house on 6 acres. I bought a kubota B7200D with 5' RFM for general mowing and tractoring duties. One thing I gave up when I moved out here was a garage. I'm a mechanic by nature, doing metalworking, woodworking, automotive, motorcycles, whatever. Losing the garage hurt. I took part of the unfinished downstairs as my shop, but that was intended to be temporary right from the beginning. Well, two years later we finally got everything lined up to begin the garage. I looked at plans, looked at builders, etc. and finally made two choices; a steel pole barn on one end and a stickbuilt barn on the other. The finances were put in place soon after we moved in, and before katrina hit. Once that happened, prices of all building materials skyrocketed, so the whole shebang was put on hold. Finally the prices have dropped enough that it was time to move forward. It's gonna be a stretch, but we're going with the stickbuilt barn.

I bought my plans from barnplans.com. Great place, and the guy that runs it is very responsive to questions and comments. I bought the 28'x40' two story gambrel roof barn plans, the shed roof option plans, and the dormer window plans, and had previously purchased the 12'x16' shed plans and cupola plans to guage how well the plans were done and how hard it would be to build. I originally planned to build the 12x16 shed as an intermediary step, but the building permit process here (loudoun county, VA) was so stupid and convoluted, it'd take me the same permits to build that shed as it would to build the barn so I deferred.

The plans are designed to be built by the do-it-yourselfer, to include and especially the trusses. I had originally planned to do it all myself, but alas the time fairy and the money fairy have not been visiting my house lately so I had to accept that I needed help. Choice of a contractor was easy, I used the same guy that I had worked with on previous projects incuding my in-law's kitchen and the buildout of our new office-building. Nice guy, nice crew, responsive to demands and doesn't mind me working with them to save money.

I let him take care of the permit process since he is very familiar with it. Unfortunately the permit process started the foreboding of madness that I have no doubt will ensue. First of all, the permits: I needed a building permit, a zoning permit, and a health department permit. Each one needed a million copies of the plans, of the plats showing everything existing and where the proposed building was, setbacks, etc. Couple hundred dollars in copies later, all that is in. Then I get the dreaded call from the county, 'we need to talk about your application.' They couldn't believe that it was a barn and storage, they thought I was trying to sneak another house in on the property. We assured them that it was a barn, and thought no more of it. Well that guy was supposed to mark the thing approved, but marked it for further review. When it was marked for that it should have generated an email or call to verify, but didn't so we we waited another 3 weeks till we nailed the problem down and got past zoning. Then the county wanted an engineer's stamp on the truss plans. No problem, we called Dano (from barnplans) and he faxed us the plans with an engineer's stamp and all the calculations. We submitted them, then a week later get the denial from the county. 'Nope, that's not good enough. It has to be a loudoun county enginner.' So we scramble, we look, and long story short we (I) dump another $2500 for a stamp on top of the $500 I already paid for the plans. If I seem bitter, it's because I am. They can allow Centex to come in and put 1000 homes on 100 acres, but I can't build a barn? Anyway, it's obvious that money talks here, and darn the rules.

So finally we get all this done, and broke ground two days ago. I started by buying another tractor; The B7200D was a great mowing machine, but was supplanted by a Grasshopper 721. As soon as I got the grasshopper, the kubota became nearly yard art. A turf-tired tractor with no loader has limited uses for me. The local dealer would pick it up, put a loader on it, do all the hydraulics, fill the back tires, and drop it off for $3K. It'd still have turf tires though. I found a B8200D with a loader and ag tires for $4500 and bought it figuring that it was like buying the loader and getting a tractor for $1500. I'm going to do an awful lot of the work with the 8200 to save money. The contractor figures I saved about half of what I paid for the new one right off the bat since they don't have to rent equipment as much.

I tore up my back the other day helping a friend, so I had one of my old neighbor kids come over to the house the other day and till up the area of the yard that the garage was going to cover. He tilled it twice to a total depth of about 6". Then he grabbed all that soil with the loader and stacked it behind the shed; it's good topsoil and I didn't want to waste it.

The contractor rented and brought out the backhoe, and started digging the footers the day after thanksgiving. It rained the two days prior. The backhoe was 2wd. It was able to get into position and dig the footers, but couldn't move the spoils. Therefore, I got on the kubota and commenced to loadering. It takes a while to move that much soil with a 6cf bucket, but I did. I can definitely see where power steering would be nice, but I worked without it. Had my tiller on the back for counterweight. Dunno how much dirt was excavated exactly, but it's roughly 2', 2' deep, and 28x40. Rough estimate is 550cf. I only moved about half of it, so ~50 full loads. The more they dug the harder it got, because I they were dumping the dirt to the inside of the hole, and once they dug three trenches I was working on a 24x36 dirt platform with a 2' drop on three sides, trying to move the dirt without pushing it back in the trench or falling in myself. Definitely a learning experience, but also something that could not have been done without 4wd and ag tires (and I speak from having watched the backhoe with a load of dirt sit and spin for the time it took me to load and dump two buckets) Since I was working with them, the job was done in half the time since they didn't have to use the TLB to move the spoils once they dug them out. It was an almand or some such; nice little thing, but it'd be way better as a 4wd. They only had to rent it for one day instead of two, instant savings there. Now we wait for the inspector to come out and inspect the hole, then we lay the footers in. We'll lay the crete for a footer, and lay block up a couple courses to get above grade, then I'll do the backfill and the framing can start. I took a couple pictures during, but can't upload much from home; satellite is my only high-speed 'net option, and the upload speeds are abysmal. I'll post more when I get to work on monday. I'll be doing progress pics and updates as available.

The pic I did attach was this morning's job. The ball joint snapped off the tie rod of my lawn tractor (which has been relegated to trailer towing and mail getting duties, mostly used for bringing the trash to the curb, much too far to push a can or carry a bag) the other day and since I don't have a ball on the kubotas we were without a runabout. I had to bring it over to the back door to get it near the welder, and needed to lift it up to get to the broken parts. Decided to kill two birds with one stone. FWIW, yes I did weld under it like that and yes it's stupid. Yes, however it did work and sometimes that's what matters.
 

Attachments

  • workin.JPG
    workin.JPG
    201.5 KB · Views: 1,395
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#2  
The garage is going to be 28'x40', two story gambrel roof. Half of the downstairs is going to be a garage, with a 2-car garage door. The other half is going to be my shop, with a one car door and a walk-in door. All doors are going to be extra width and height, TBD based on what we can get away with with the inspectors. If all works out correctly, I'll also have a garage door on the back wall of the shop opposite the front one so I can have a clean drivethru area. Much easier to pull trailers through than to back them in. The doors are going to be on the 40' side, making this a sideloader. I'm also going to have an 8' shed roof running down the back 40' side with a gravel floor, which will be for tractor and implement parking. Basically stuff that you want covered, but not necessarily taking garage floorspace.
One thing I'm planning that will be different will be an elevator, kind of. I thought of putting in a car lift, but they require lots of headroom and my car-lifting days are mostly over. If it requires a lift, I'd just as soon pay someone else to do it. The upstairs will be mostly clearspan storage, but how useful is storage without a way to get stuff into it? I need as much floorspace for storage as I can get, and heating and cooling is much easier with separate floors than with high ceilings. I plan to have an 8' x8' section of the upper floor be separate. I'm going to get a boat hoist lift and run cables from it to the corners of the 'elevator' floor. The boat hoist is basically a winch that turns a steel pipe instead of a cable drum; the cables are wrapped around that, through pulleys to (in it's intended uses) a cradle that a boat sits in. I figure I can get a hoist motor for a couple hundred bucks off ebay, and jimmy the rest of it together and end up with a 3000lb capacity, very slow elevator big enough to put motorcycles, 4-wheelers, and the like onto for seasonal storage.
Boat Lifts 4 Less Boat House lifts by Boat Hoist USA

I'm going to have three large dormer windows per side of the upstairs, mostly because I have 6 matching windows. Quite a few on the downstairs as well. I'm currently planning on running a new electrical service to the barn rather than a subpanel from my house; 200a service is much better than a 50a sub, particularly when I plan on being able to run my welders and air compressor at the same time.
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #3  
Look into the cost of getting a higher amperage for the house and run a sub panel to the garage. Most electric utilities are charging between $8 - $10 a month just to have a meter on the building. When you figure out that you will be there for x amount of years paying that $8 - $10 per month for the garage meter, the cost of the higher amperage service for the house isn't going to look that bad. Also, figure out which is closer to the point of origin of the electric service. There is no reason that the barn can't have the meter/main panel and the house the sub panel.
Dusty
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #4  
Sounds to me like it will be a great building. I would think twice about sharing the idea of the elevator/boat lift with the county building department. It would surprise me if they would like the idea of a homemade elevator.

MarkV
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Dusty, the house already has 200a service. I could drop a 100a sub from it, the problem is the cost of copper. I have heard, but haven't verified yet, that if you get new service then dominion will run new wire to the service for $1 a foot. If I run a subpanel, then I need to buy ~100' of wire that will carry that load, $$$$$$$. I'd rather pay the meter fee over time than pay for that much copper right up front. I may end up doing so anyhow, just depends on how the fight with dominion goes. The house and the barn are about equidistant from the pole, maybe 250'. The hard part is that I have underground cable from the pole to my house. That means trenching and backfilling.

Mark, I absolutely have no intention of letting the county know about my elevator. When they come to inspect, there'll be an 8'x8' hole in the upstairs floor with a nice railing around it. :) After they leave is when construction of the elevator begins.
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #6  
here in the south electricity is supplied by Southern Co.I was told by a lineman that if your usage on an outbuilding exceeded 500kwh it would be considered commercial and it would get a demand meter.You might want to check this out.
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #7  
I plan to have an 8' x8' section of the upper floor be separate. I'm going to get a boat hoist lift and run cables from it to the corners of the 'elevator' floor.

What would the lifting capacity of that Kubota be if you got a set of pallet forks for it?

An upper balcony with a removable railing and you could fork lift stuff up to it.

The boat lift elevator is a clever idea, but it isn't a real elevator. One of the things it lacks is a safety to prevent the floor/contents from falling in the event of a failure. You can get away with this for a boat lift because there is never anything other than water under it.

If you store it in the "up" position, you will need to add safeties to prevent it from falling and crunching whatever is under it.

OTOH, if you build part of the garage as a high bay you could drive the tractor in and lift items to a second floor. This way, you buy a set of pallet forks (real ones, not the clamp on kind) which are useful for a lot of stuff other than storage. Plus a high bay is also useful.

And, when it comes time to sell, you have a plus instead of a minus.

I presume you are going to have conventional stairs to the second floor.
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#8  
The kubota lifts 730lbs, to a height of 7'. Not quite enough to work with. The biggest problem is that if I leave a balcony such as you suggest, I have a two-story room right there to heat and cool, which is orders of magnitude more difficult/expensive. I agree that there is no safety, but 99% of safety is in the user. I don't plan to use this as a daily use people elevator (they're ridiculously slow, on the order of one to three feet a minute; making for a roughly 10 minute lift cycle) but as a freight elevator to carry things that are too heavy/bulky to bring up the conventional stairs. I do plan on having locks in place to act as a safeguard when the elevator is in the raised position, probably metal bolts through protruding straps. See attachment. I'm thinking 6 of those or something similar, with the bolt section lag bolted to the upper floor surface and the strap section lag screwed to the vertical sides of the elevator floor. I also am vaguely thinking of making the edges of the elevator floor tapered slightly, smaller at the top, and the hole in the upper floor matching so that it has a taper fit, which would also make it somewhat self-aligning. I don't plan to use the elevator floor as storage area, and as for being a minus when it comes time to sell, removal of the elevator is as simple as lowering it to the ground and removing the cables, or putting lag bolts through the join between the elevator and upper floor and making it permanent.
 

Attachments

  • latchbolt.jpg
    latchbolt.jpg
    20.1 KB · Views: 871
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#9  
First pic is the TLB straddling the trench. Look at the mud coating the tires.
Second pic is me beginning the fourth pile of dirt with the kubota.
 

Attachments

  • allmand.JPG
    allmand.JPG
    253.9 KB · Views: 923
  • beginningpile.JPG
    beginningpile.JPG
    301.9 KB · Views: 925
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #10  
Why does the sub panel wire need to be copper? You can use aluminum wire as long as you size it properly. Depends on how long you intend to live there. If it is a short time, then the payback isn't going to be in using a sub panel. If 20 years, the sub panel will be the least expensive when you factor in the meter costs. I have a 200 amp service with 2 100 amp sub panels and one 60 amp sub panel.
Dusty
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2013 UTILITY VS2RA 53FT REEFER TRAILER (A52141)
2013 UTILITY VS2RA...
2025 New/Unused Wolverine Pallet Fork Frame with Forks (A51573)
2025 New/Unused...
2013 Ford F-150 Pickup Truck, VIN # 1FTFW1EFXDFB07930 (A51572)
2013 Ford F-150...
2019 Fecon BH74SS Hydraulic Mulcher High Flow Skid Steer Attachment (A51691)
2019 Fecon BH74SS...
2008 JLG 450AJ SERIES II MANLIFT (A51246)
2008 JLG 450AJ...
2023 PETERBILT 579 TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A52576)
2023 PETERBILT 579...
 
Top