new guy intro and help with my f935 axle

   / new guy intro and help with my f935 axle #1  

thatgreenguy

New member
Joined
May 2, 2012
Messages
1
Location
Michigan
Tractor
f935
Hello all? I知 just introducing myself as the new guy. I recently purchased a home on 10 acres, and coming from a condo I had/have to acquire the right tools and machines to maintain and repair my property. After buying the house and making the necessary repairs and upgrades there was little left to purchase something new to handle cutting the grass.
My property is approximately 1000 ft long by 450ft wide with very little trees, and smooth rolling hills, but no more than 10-15 ft elevation changes. Clearly I need a large mower, and I decided against getting a large brush hog and tractor due to fuel and time consumption. This pretty much left me with one style of mower.. a 72 deck and a diesel motor. Not having 12-15k laying around meant that I couldn稚 get that is5100z unless it was on note, which im trying to avoid.
To make a long story short I purchased a JD F935 w/72 and a yanmar diesel for 2600$. The mower has about 1600 hrs on the unit, but the motor was replaced around 1100hrs. With the deal I acquired an additional 72 deck with a slight shaft seal leak and 6 JD gator mulch blades. The mower is in pretty good shape, but it has its flaws.
I used it for the first time a week ago cutting, and the grass was 4-8 as some areas were cut weeks ago with a tractor.
Now the bad the PO has the diff lock pedal vise gripped down so the mower will drive. Im assuming the regular drive axle splines are toast. When the diff lock is disengaged both wheels free wheel, and engaged the control side drives and the toolbox side free wheels. The shaft seal is leaking on the broken side, and making my left brakes useless. The key was in good shape so the broken key is not the fix. The mower runs fine with the one wheel in both directions with the diff lock engaged , but reverse seems to be faster than forward, and im assuming that痴 a adjustment issue. The unit creeps backward on its own which again must be out of adjustment. The diff or transmission doesn稚 seem to be making any abnormal sounds so this leads me to think a new shaft will fix my problem.
If anyone could give me some insight on the repair or if I can remove the axle housing with the shaft inside or do I have to pull the shaft out before the housing comes out. I have the Tech manual and it doesn稚 say that it cant be done.
Also on the way is a new fan belt, driveshaft isolator, fluids, air and oil filters.
Thanks for your help in advance to allow me to piece together a mower that could help me out for the next 20 years! This can at least get me to my mid life crisis lol


btw can anyone tell me what year my mower is? the serial is MOF935X420054
 

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   / new guy intro and help with my f935 axle #2  
Hello all? I知 just introducing myself as the new guy. I recently purchased a home on 10 acres, and coming from a condo I had/have to acquire the right tools and machines to maintain and repair my property. After buying the house and making the necessary repairs and upgrades there was little left to purchase something new to handle cutting the grass.
My property is approximately 1000 ft long by 450ft wide with very little trees, and smooth rolling hills, but no more than 10-15 ft elevation changes. Clearly I need a large mower, and I decided against getting a large brush hog and tractor due to fuel and time consumption. This pretty much left me with one style of mower.. a 72 deck and a diesel motor. Not having 12-15k laying around meant that I couldn稚 get that is5100z unless it was on note, which im trying to avoid.
To make a long story short I purchased a JD F935 w/72 and a yanmar diesel for 2600$. The mower has about 1600 hrs on the unit, but the motor was replaced around 1100hrs. With the deal I acquired an additional 72 deck with a slight shaft seal leak and 6 JD gator mulch blades. The mower is in pretty good shape, but it has its flaws.
I used it for the first time a week ago cutting, and the grass was 4-8 as some areas were cut weeks ago with a tractor.
Now the bad the PO has the diff lock pedal vise gripped down so the mower will drive. Im assuming the regular drive axle splines are toast. When the diff lock is disengaged both wheels free wheel, and engaged the control side drives and the toolbox side free wheels. The shaft seal is leaking on the broken side, and making my left brakes useless. The key was in good shape so the broken key is not the fix. The mower runs fine with the one wheel in both directions with the diff lock engaged , but reverse seems to be faster than forward, and im assuming that痴 a adjustment issue. The unit creeps backward on its own which again must be out of adjustment. The diff or transmission doesn稚 seem to be making any abnormal sounds so this leads me to think a new shaft will fix my problem.
If anyone could give me some insight on the repair or if I can remove the axle housing with the shaft inside or do I have to pull the shaft out before the housing comes out. I have the Tech manual and it doesn稚 say that it cant be done.
Also on the way is a new fan belt, driveshaft isolator, fluids, air and oil filters.
Thanks for your help in advance to allow me to piece together a mower that could help me out for the next 20 years! This can at least get me to my mid life crisis lol


btw can anyone tell me what year my mower is? the serial is MOF935X420054

You have a dandy mower. They are easy to work on and with some care will last a long time. Unless you have internal damage a new shaft should fix the drive problem. I think the only reason to remove the axle housing is to replace the seal which I have done. Not a hard job somewhat involved but straight forward. You might want a new brake drum on that side as the new shaft will have a nice straight cut key way and unless you replace the drum the key will rock back and forth and finally shear again. A piece of advice, don't use JD's key but get your self some key stock and cut it long enough that it starts to hit the curved part of the key way on the shaft. Everything will stay tighter that way. I have had several of these machines and was impressed at how easy to repair they are.
Yours I thinks is a late 80's maybe early 90's.:thumbsup:
 

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