New Holland T6030 Diesel Injection Pump Removal

[enoel]

Trying to remove the Diesel Injection pump from my New Holland T6030 to have it rebuilt. Everything is loose and it's not coming out. Has anyone else done this? How do I get it off?! Thanks!

 

[hosspuller]

Stop ! ASK if the pump/engine should be timed before removal. Get some help before you do anything else. You might be setting yourself up for a lot more work than needed.

 

[Tractorboy88]

Woohoo my friend, you're in for a job. Have pulled several of those mechanical Bosch units off T6050/6030/TS-115 tractors.

Step 1. Disconnect battery. Seriously, you have to remove starter to locate engine. (13mm wrench)

Step 2. Remove the starter and fuel priming/lift pump. (17mm socket, 22 mm socket, 10mm socket) Removal of the priming pump is necessary to view the camshaft and determine if the engine is in the correct TDC position or 180* out.

Step 3. Rotate engine in its direction of travel (this is important, as it accounts for backlash in the timing gears) until the TDC pin hole lines up in flywheel/block. (You can use a pry-bar or large flat head screwdriver on the flywheel to turn it over, or go buy the factory tool for $$$.) If you go too far past, back up a substantial amount, and then come back to try again. This again accounts for gear backlash. The pin hole is at an angle. Slide a suitable pin through the hole and lock the engine in TDC position (you can go buy the factory tool, or use a correct diameter and length screwdriver/drill bit/pin that you have laying around the shop, the choice is yours).

Step 4. Inspect the camshaft through the priming pump access hole.



This is what you should see, if the camshaft looks otherwise, remove the lock pin and rotate the engine 360. Revisit step 3 to lock engine back down.

Step 5. Loosen the lock time bolt on pump (10mm socket on 1/4" drive ratchet!), remove the spacer tab, and tighten down bolt to lock pump. Keep track of the spacer tab. It's a small bolt, don't break it off Hercules, just snug it. (This isn't all that important if you're having your pump rebuilt, as a good pump shop will lock time it to spec when they give it back to you.)

Step 6. Remove all lines, linkages, and brackets necessary. Remove the pump flange bolts. (13mm socket and wrench)

Step 7. Remove the timing gear inspection cover off the backside of the engine, between the cab and engine.

Step 8. CAREFULLY break free the retaining nut (22 or 23mm socket) and remove the nut and lock washer WITHOUT dropping either into the crankcase! (I normally use a 1/4" sized extendable magnet stick to prevent me from screwing this up when removing/installing washer and nut. Stick the magnet on to the pump shaft and center it up, then unthread the nut and slide the nut and washer onto the magnet stick, keeping you from dropping them.)

Step 9. The pump is an interference fit into its timing gear. It has to be pushed/pulled apart. It is not keyed, although the pump shaft has a key way.

You'll either want to use the inspection cover as a template to make a pusher tool, or best yet, buy this tool from Snap-On, Amazon, EBay, etc. https://store.snapon.com/Diesel-Timing-Gauge-Set-Puller-Gear-P637125.aspx which bolts onto the timing gear and pushes the pump shaft out of the gear as you tighten.

I once made my own tool that bolted up using the inspection cover bolt threads and had a 1/2" bolt center lined with the shaft, so when I tightened the 1/2" bolt, it pushed the pump out of the gear.

Although it has been done, I don't advise hammering on the shaft with the nut screwed on flush, because you'll booger the shaft on a $2500 pump.


If done correct, when the pump shaft pops free and you remove the pump, the key way on the shaft should line up with a hash mark on the back of the pump.

Good luck. If you own this tractor, or one equipped with these pumps, you'll get used to doing this.

 

[RickB]

Tractorboy did not account for determining whether the engine is locked @ TDC or 180* out.

 

[Tractorboy88]

Tractorboy did not account for determining whether the engine is locked @ TDC or 180* out.

Edited! Thanks for calling me out on that one, i was up late, my mistake. Even added an image to make up for it! lol

 

[Fedup]

Tractorboy did not account for determining whether the engine is locked @ TDC or 180* out.

Was that not step 4 on his list?

 

[RickB]

Was that not step 4 on his list?

It is now; he went back & edited his commentary after I outed him. had the OP pulled the pump with the engine locked 180* from #1 TDC it would not have been pretty.

 

[Tractorboy88]

It is now; he went back & edited his commentary after I outed him. had the OP pulled the pump with the engine locked 180* from #1 TDC it would not have been pretty.

Chances are it would run if he put it back in 180 out, just hard to start and smokey haha.

On another note, you reckon the OP is one of those 1 post ghost types that you never hear from again?

 

[RickB]

Probably. Too many of these new "members" don't have the common decency to post results or decisions made after getting responses.

 

[Temblor]

Woohoo my friend, you're in for a job. Have pulled several of those mechanical Bosch units off T6050/6030/TS-115 tractors.

Step 1. Disconnect battery. Seriously, you have to remove starter to locate engine. (13mm wrench)

Step 2. Remove the starter and fuel priming/lift pump. (17mm socket, 22 mm socket, 10mm socket) Removal of the priming pump is necessary to view the camshaft and determine if the engine is in the correct TDC position or 180* out.

Step 3. Rotate engine in its direction of travel (this is important, as it accounts for backlash in the timing gears) until the TDC pin hole lines up in flywheel/block. (You can use a pry-bar or large flat head screwdriver on the flywheel to turn it over, or go buy the factory tool for $$$.) If you go too far past, back up a substantial amount, and then come back to try again. This again accounts for gear backlash. The pin hole is at an angle. Slide a suitable pin through the hole and lock the engine in TDC position (you can go buy the factory tool, or use a correct diameter and length screwdriver/drill bit/pin that you have laying around the shop, the choice is yours).

Step 4. Inspect the camshaft through the priming pump access hole.

View attachment 455093

This is what you should see, if the camshaft looks otherwise, remove the lock pin and rotate the engine 360. Revisit step 3 to lock engine back down.

Step 5. Loosen the lock time bolt on pump (10mm socket on 1/4" drive ratchet!), remove the spacer tab, and tighten down bolt to lock pump. Keep track of the spacer tab. It's a small bolt, don't break it off Hercules, just snug it. (This isn't all that important if you're having your pump rebuilt, as a good pump shop will lock time it to spec when they give it back to you.)

Step 6. Remove all lines, linkages, and brackets necessary. Remove the pump flange bolts. (13mm socket and wrench)

Step 7. Remove the timing gear inspection cover off the backside of the engine, between the cab and engine.

Step 8. CAREFULLY break free the retaining nut (22 or 23mm socket) and remove the nut and lock washer WITHOUT dropping either into the crankcase! (I normally use a 1/4" sized extendable magnet stick to prevent me from screwing this up when removing/installing washer and nut. Stick the magnet on to the pump shaft and center it up, then unthread the nut and slide the nut and washer onto the magnet stick, keeping you from dropping them.)

Step 9. The pump is an interference fit into its timing gear. It has to be pushed/pulled apart. It is not keyed, although the pump shaft has a key way.

You'll either want to use the inspection cover as a template to make a pusher tool, or best yet, buy this tool from Snap-On, Amazon, EBay, etc. Puller, Gear which bolts onto the timing gear and pushes the pump shaft out of the gear as you tighten.

I once made my own tool that bolted up using the inspection cover bolt threads and had a 1/2" bolt center lined with the shaft, so when I tightened the 1/2" bolt, it pushed the pump out of the gear.

Although it has been done, I don't advise hammering on the shaft with the nut screwed on flush, because you'll booger the shaft on a $2500 pump.


If done correct, when the pump shaft pops free and you remove the pump, the key way on the shaft should line up with a hash mark on the back of the pump.

Good luck. If you own this tractor, or one equipped with these pumps, you'll get used to doing this.

Wow good write up! that took some time.
no reply? But I will
I have a Ford 1500 with Shabaura 2 cyl.. is the pump & timing similar to above?
I bought it not running, The previous owner had the Fuel injection pump rebuilt $900 (I hope he kept the rebuilt one on machine? but could have put old one back on? which he said did not need to be "rebuilt" after all and he talked about a core return)
Also had new Injectors, head resurfaced, 2 new valves,
After the work he said it "Was not running strong" and his brother maybe did not do pump timing correctly?

To get it running at all, I replaced burned out Glow plug and indicator, Cleaned tank, blew out all fuel lines, new fuel, bled fuel lines.. finally got it running.. but after a minute or 2 the tractor will slowly die. then takes about 5 minutes before it will start again and same thing.. dies after 2 or 3 minutes.
it has bluish dry smoke while cranking over and running. It sounds knocky to me.. but I am a novice.
I can operate attachments and FEL PTO backhoe when I first start it.. as it runs pretty strong then, but then starts to weaken.. before it ultimately dies.
I am going to try running without the gas cap tomorrow, see if that works and maybe I might do a compression check..
Any ideas?
Any help appreciated.