When working on my boat i look at the plugs to see how the engine is operating . Looking at the pic each cylinder was burning fuel different and the white and brown deposits may be a clue to look at when you take it to the machine shop. What do you think?
New Holland TC35D Top End
- Thread starter ctjstr
- Start date
- Views: 19144
Little more progress. Oil is drained and the drive line comes out. I'm really surprised how insubstantial the front drive shaft and its connections are. Essentially, there is a middle section which is splined on each end. Then in the front differential and the transfer case there are also splined ends. All are male ends. There are some relatively small collars, front and rear, that slide over the axle and the corresponding splines of the differential or transfer case. All that keeps it from sliding around is a small roll pin. The whole deal seems pretty flimsy, but seems to work. Oh well.
Here's a shot showing the roll pin being driven out. Sorry about the extra hand in the way.
And here's the best shot of them all. That's my wife Becky under the tractor taking out the drive shaft. Well...someone's got to be working when I'm drinking coffee.
Here's a shot showing the roll pin being driven out. Sorry about the extra hand in the way.
And here's the best shot of them all. That's my wife Becky under the tractor taking out the drive shaft. Well...someone's got to be working when I'm drinking coffee.
dfkrug
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2004
- Messages
- 7,612
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mtns, CA
- Tractor
- 05 Kioti CK30HST w/ Prairie Dog backhoe, XN08 mini-X
ctjstr said:
Smaller driveshafts are all that is needed in cases where the final drive
gear ratio is very low. I did not count the teeth on the gears in my Kubota
rear end, but the reduction seems to be greater than 50:1. I don't know
about your MFWD, but I will bet there is a substantial reduction there, too.
Great last photo. Does your wife know she is posted on TBN? I usually
can't get mine to get close to the CLEAN side of my tractors.
O.K, here's the last for today. Pulled the pan and pistons. Found at least one major problem. The tractor got so hot I galled the #2 piston. Essentially the engine gets so hot and expands enough that you lose oil protection on the piston to cylinder wall interface. The piston then starts to destroy it self and in so doing, can leave deposits of aluminum on the cylinder wall. I've seen it so bad you had to use muriatic acid to dissolve the aluminum off of the cylinder.
Once the piston starts to get trashed, it will pinch the rings, which just allows whatever is in the combustion chamber to just bypass the piston. Hence in my case, getting puffs of smoke out of the breather tube.
So the bad news is I have one piston that's junk. Good news is that the rods, wrist pins and bearings are great. I'll still replace all of the rings, even in the cylinders that are o.k, and will replace the connecting rod bearings..just cuz. But I won't pull the crank assembly and replace the mains.
Here's a shot showing the front side of the #2 piston. I tried to get a clearer shot, but you can still see the up and down lines which show where the piston is junk. I couldn't even budge the two top rings, they are pinched so bad.
Here are the bearings. There is essentially no wear on them.
One way you can check bearings quickly, without using plastigage, is to measure them with a set of calipers or mic. You get a baseline of the width of the bearing towards the side, away from the thrust area. Then get another measurement showing the width at the thrust area. Typically the upper rod bearing will wear faster then the lower. In this case, the calipers were zeroed on the good portion of the bearing and compared to the thrust portion. If the reading had shown it to be 3-4 thou larger then where there was no thrust, I'd know the bearings had been hammered flat some and probably would have thought more about pulling the mains.
Fortunately the cylinder was not hurt. You can see where the messed up piston scraped on the side, but it will hone out easily. I'd guess it will take less then half a thou to get them looking nice again.
Once the piston starts to get trashed, it will pinch the rings, which just allows whatever is in the combustion chamber to just bypass the piston. Hence in my case, getting puffs of smoke out of the breather tube.
So the bad news is I have one piston that's junk. Good news is that the rods, wrist pins and bearings are great. I'll still replace all of the rings, even in the cylinders that are o.k, and will replace the connecting rod bearings..just cuz. But I won't pull the crank assembly and replace the mains.
Here's a shot showing the front side of the #2 piston. I tried to get a clearer shot, but you can still see the up and down lines which show where the piston is junk. I couldn't even budge the two top rings, they are pinched so bad.
Here are the bearings. There is essentially no wear on them.
One way you can check bearings quickly, without using plastigage, is to measure them with a set of calipers or mic. You get a baseline of the width of the bearing towards the side, away from the thrust area. Then get another measurement showing the width at the thrust area. Typically the upper rod bearing will wear faster then the lower. In this case, the calipers were zeroed on the good portion of the bearing and compared to the thrust portion. If the reading had shown it to be 3-4 thou larger then where there was no thrust, I'd know the bearings had been hammered flat some and probably would have thought more about pulling the mains.
Fortunately the cylinder was not hurt. You can see where the messed up piston scraped on the side, but it will hone out easily. I'd guess it will take less then half a thou to get them looking nice again.
Got all the parts ordered from Messicks today. I'm not sure if its good news or not, but they had all the parts in stock. They were pretty helpful and I managed to order one piston, rather then a complete piston kit. Total parts about $350.00 plus various fluids and such when I re-assemble. Everything should be here by Friday and in a perfect world, it will be back in the mud on Sunday. Yeah sure.
O.K. Managed a few things today between football games. First thing was to hone the block to make sure things were round and not tapered. Plus I wanted to make sure there wasn't any significant damage from the galled piston.
I used a 200 grit stone in a rigid hone. I would have used a 300, but mine is still MIA from the move. If you're ever going to do a block like this, its always best to use a rigid hone. You can tell in the first couple passes whether the cylinder is relatively round. If it is, the hone will have resistance all the way around as you're honing. If the cylinder is out of round, the hone will kind of surge until you've got it round. In this case, I probably only did 15-20 passes with the hone and really took almost no material off the cylinders. As you hone, you're trying for somewhere between a 45-60 degree cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls, depending on the manufacturer and type of rings. Once you've done it a few times, you get the feel for about how fast you should move the hone up and down to make that happen.
The problem with this application was that the flywheel was still in the engine. I rotated the flywheel so the rod journal was as far away from bottom of the cylinder as I could get it, then covered it with a rag. that way I could avoid banging the hone into the crank each time I made a stroke.
After honing, you really need to clean the cylinders. I first hosed them thoroughly with brake cleaner. Then used hot soapy water. If you scrub them several times with that, you'll get all the little honing and stone particles off the surface, which is critical. Brake Cleaner alone will not do it. You really have to keep washing until you can take a paper towel and rub it on the cylinder walls and not get any black material on the paper. In this case, I washed them about 4-5 times.
You can see the dish cloth I was using to wash things down. The solution simply ran through the block, washed over the crank shaft and landed in a bucket.
Here's the block, all honed, cleaned and ready for assembly. After cleaning, I thoroughly sprayed the cylinders and crank assembly with WD 40. Since its a water displacement chemical, it is perfect for this job.
I next took the head apart. I cleaned it completely, checked the valves, measured the stems and guides, lapped the valves lightly and put it back together. My camera was charging during that process, so all I have is the finished product. I'm taking a chance by not having the head pressure tested, but I really looked at it hard and checked for cracks and flatness as best as you can on the bench. I filled the intake chambers and let them sit for an hour to see if there was any leakage and did the same with the exhaust. Not a drop. so for me, its worth the risk. If I were paying someone to overhaul the engine, I'd insist on the pressure test.
I've got a few little odds and ends to do between now and Friday, like scrape the oil pan gasket off the bottom of the block, but I should be ready to go when the parts get delivered.
I used a 200 grit stone in a rigid hone. I would have used a 300, but mine is still MIA from the move. If you're ever going to do a block like this, its always best to use a rigid hone. You can tell in the first couple passes whether the cylinder is relatively round. If it is, the hone will have resistance all the way around as you're honing. If the cylinder is out of round, the hone will kind of surge until you've got it round. In this case, I probably only did 15-20 passes with the hone and really took almost no material off the cylinders. As you hone, you're trying for somewhere between a 45-60 degree cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls, depending on the manufacturer and type of rings. Once you've done it a few times, you get the feel for about how fast you should move the hone up and down to make that happen.
The problem with this application was that the flywheel was still in the engine. I rotated the flywheel so the rod journal was as far away from bottom of the cylinder as I could get it, then covered it with a rag. that way I could avoid banging the hone into the crank each time I made a stroke.
After honing, you really need to clean the cylinders. I first hosed them thoroughly with brake cleaner. Then used hot soapy water. If you scrub them several times with that, you'll get all the little honing and stone particles off the surface, which is critical. Brake Cleaner alone will not do it. You really have to keep washing until you can take a paper towel and rub it on the cylinder walls and not get any black material on the paper. In this case, I washed them about 4-5 times.
You can see the dish cloth I was using to wash things down. The solution simply ran through the block, washed over the crank shaft and landed in a bucket.
Here's the block, all honed, cleaned and ready for assembly. After cleaning, I thoroughly sprayed the cylinders and crank assembly with WD 40. Since its a water displacement chemical, it is perfect for this job.
I next took the head apart. I cleaned it completely, checked the valves, measured the stems and guides, lapped the valves lightly and put it back together. My camera was charging during that process, so all I have is the finished product. I'm taking a chance by not having the head pressure tested, but I really looked at it hard and checked for cracks and flatness as best as you can on the bench. I filled the intake chambers and let them sit for an hour to see if there was any leakage and did the same with the exhaust. Not a drop. so for me, its worth the risk. If I were paying someone to overhaul the engine, I'd insist on the pressure test.
I've got a few little odds and ends to do between now and Friday, like scrape the oil pan gasket off the bottom of the block, but I should be ready to go when the parts get delivered.
638
Platinum Member
I don't like to use wd40 in the cylinders because of the wax residue that it leaves on the surface. Makes it hard to fit up the rings.
ron
ron
Page2
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2007
- Messages
- 75
- Location
- Central Illinois
- Tractor
- Kubota B2100, Farmall "Red" Cub, IH B414, Allis Chalmers WC, Cat D2
Thanks for sharing, it's been interesting following your progress. Hope it all works out well.