New Husqvarna 346XP Yikes

Car Doc · Aug 6, 2012

Congrats! I agree w/ Bluegill give it time it will get stronger and stronger. I would sure run Husky oil also for now I wouldn't get carried away with off brands yet jmho. ymmv as always

I have no idea how many I ran but it ran better every time I ran it and it flat screams like it should now. I did pull the cat off mine first thing and adjusted the carb but I dont recommend doing that while its under warranty.

ultraglide62 · Aug 6, 2012

My favorite saw is my 346xp. I love the power to weight ratio and my arms do not get longer carrying it around all day. I also like the fact that i can use my Oregon 110 volt sharper with the same grinding wheel to sharpen .325 and .375 chain.

defed · Aug 6, 2012

i'm using the husky oil because the warranty was double if i did. one thing i didn't like was the warranty for the pro model...it was the same whether you were using it as such or just as a homeowner...which is 1/2 of what the consumer warranty is.

i didn't plan on doing anything to it while it is under warranty, tho the book does give the ok to adjust the carb after the 10 hr break in.

it's not even that it lacks power now, just when i'm using it horizontally, trying to cut the stump as low as possible w/o hitting the dirt, i don't have as good of control on the feed rate, and the chain grabs and digs in. bucking in a normal fashion, i haven't had an issue. using the top of the bar is really an adventure....flings the material all over the place due to the speed! also if i'm cutting my stumps w/ the top, that's when it really wants to bite too. almost seems like my low kickback safety chain is too aggressive when it happens.

speaking of chains...i have an electric bench grinder, but was looking for a hand method for out in the field. i've never been too good at filing/grinding angles free hand, so wanted something w/ a guide for the file. there are so many to pick from, anyone recommend something that's good?

Bluegill2 · Aug 6, 2012

Flush cutting stumps just takes practice. Larger saws are usually better at this, but size of stump makes a difference.

Safety chain will not be more aggressive. How bout a picture of you chain?

I free hand file all my chain, but if you want a guide, the Husqvarna roller guides work very good and are easy and simple. Not too much $ either.

defed · Aug 7, 2012

on the 5th tank now, and it does seem to be getting stronger. was shortening some stumps that i left only a cpl inches high, but turned put being too bumpy for the trail. some were black cherry and one was more than 16" across in some spots. it ripped thru them pretty good, and when i got thru, it flung the 1"-2" thick disc a foot or 2 depending on how big around they were.

forgot to get a pic of the chain, but i'm pretty sure it's anti-kickback.

Bluegill2 · Aug 8, 2012

A little chain info for ya, defed.

Semi chisel will work better (stay sharp longer) for flush cutting stumps, or cutting near the ground, or dirty, dry wood.

Oregon BPX, or Stihl RMC is what I use in semi chisel in .325.

Chisel for clean, green wood. I use Oregon LPX or Stihl RSC in .325.

Baileys.com is a good place to read up on chain and order, if your local dealer doesn't have what you want.

Car Doc · Aug 8, 2012

Tip #2 Be careful getting the tip buried in a stump or anything for that matter a kickback while on your knees and somewhat off balance could be ugly. Anti kickback chains will kickback btw.

I always hate flush cutting stumps since its hard on the bar and chain and my back. But I also always do it with a saw big enough to clear the stump dia completely. fwtw

defed · Aug 8, 2012

thanks for the info. i plan on sticking w/ semi chisel because i often have to drag the logs around before i can cut them, so they can get dirty.

i too hate cutting the stumps. i know it will kickback, it has a cpl times, not doing stumps, but in general. i'm not cutting too much that is bigger than the bar. there are some, but mostly because they flare out at the bottom...and because they are in the 'road', i need to get them as low as possible. if they were in the wooded area, i would leave them higher. my biggest problem is i get off at slightly the wrong angle and am headed for the dirt by the time i get thru...or it's in a tight spot where it's easier to come in backwards (top of bar)...and i found that tends to pull the saw into the wood faster while trying to push the saw out towards me. while trying to control those forces is when i get her bogged down.

defed · Aug 8, 2012

back to the topic of hand filing....does the roller guide control the angle of the file, or just the height? it looks to me like you can still go off at crazy angles as the file is still free to move side to side. i think i'll try one of those ones that clamp onto the bar, where it leaves less of my freehanding the file. takes longer to set up, but i'd rather have all my teeth at 30 degrees than some at 30, some at 35 some at 25 etc.

something like the granberg 106b.

LD1 · Aug 8, 2012

defed said:
back to the topic of hand filing....does the roller guide control the angle of the file, or just the height? it looks to me like you can still go off at crazy angles as the file is still free to move side to side. i think i'll try one of those ones that clamp onto the bar, where it leaves less of my freehanding the file. takes longer to set up, but i'd rather have all my teeth at 30 degrees than some at 30, some at 35 some at 25 etc.

something like the granberg 106b.

The granberg is what I use and swear by. After a little practice, it literally only takes about 2-3 minutes to do a 18 or 20" chain.