New Husqvarna 346XP Yikes

[defed]

got the granberg and gave it a try. except for a cpl of the locking nuts on the adjustments being hard to get at, i think it will be a nice little tool. even on the 1st use and taking time to mess w/ the settings, it was a quick process. i think once i use it a few more times, i could probably sharpen the chain in the time (ok, maybe a little longer) it would take to remove it from the saw to use the grinder. only real issue i had was, when filing in one direction, the locking screws that hold the file in hit the screws that hold the guides against the links. occasionally, when the 2 came in contact, they would sort of 'jam' into each other and bind. i just had to try and make sure i shortened my file stroke a fraction.

still will have to remove the cover periodically to clean it out anyway, but for 1st use, the granberg looks good. cut good too afterward...better than if i tried to file them all freehand.

 

[LD1]

got the granberg and gave it a try. except for a cpl of the locking nuts on the adjustments being hard to get at, i think it will be a nice little tool. even on the 1st use and taking time to mess w/ the settings, it was a quick process. i think once i use it a few more times, i could probably sharpen the chain in the time (ok, maybe a little longer) it would take to remove it from the saw to use the grinder. only real issue i had was, when filing in one direction, the locking screws that hold the file in hit the screws that hold the guides against the links. occasionally, when the 2 came in contact, they would sort of 'jam' into each other and bind. i just had to try and make sure i shortened my file stroke a fraction.

still will have to remove the cover periodically to clean it out anyway, but for 1st use, the granberg looks good. cut good too afterward...better than if i tried to file them all freehand.

Good review. With a few more uses, you are correct, it can be done in about the same amount of time as it takes to remove everything to use a grinder.

A couple of pointers:

Dont let the chain get really dull. Unless you hit metal or a rock, you shouldnt be taking more than 2-3 file strokes per tooth with a good file. And keep it (chain) out of the dirt

Spray a little wd-40 on the slide AND on the file. It will make the file last longer, and it will glide better.

If you didnt know, when filing, you should be filing in a direction from INSIDE of tooth to OUTSIDE. Dont do it outside in like you would hand sharpen a knife.

Certain chain sizes have 2 teeth in a row on the same side. Makes a good starting point so you know when you go all the way around. If not, a magic marker and "paint" the top of your starting tooth with it.

I dont know what angles you set, But I like 30 degrees with a 10 degree upward tilt for FULL CHISEL, and for Semi-round I like 30 and 0.

Lastly (for now), I dont set the backstop. (the cap-nut where you adjust the tilt). Leave it in where it isnt being used as a "stop", and just take the necessary amount of strokes for each tooth. Which may be slightly different from one-another.

 

[defed]

Good review. With a few more uses, you are correct, it can be done in about the same amount of time as it takes to remove everything to use a grinder.

A couple of pointers:

Dont let the chain get really dull. Unless you hit metal or a rock, you shouldnt be taking more than 2-3 file strokes per tooth with a good file. And keep it (chain) out of the dirt

Spray a little wd-40 on the slide AND on the file. It will make the file last longer, and it will glide better.

If you didnt know, when filing, you should be filing in a direction from INSIDE of tooth to OUTSIDE. Dont do it outside in like you would hand sharpen a knife.

Certain chain sizes have 2 teeth in a row on the same side. Makes a good starting point so you know when you go all the way around. If not, a magic marker and "paint" the top of your starting tooth with it.

I dont know what angles you set, But I like 30 degrees with a 10 degree upward tilt for FULL CHISEL, and for Semi-round I like 30 and 0.

Lastly (for now), I dont set the backstop. (the cap-nut where you adjust the tilt). Leave it in where it isnt being used as a "stop", and just take the necessary amount of strokes for each tooth. Which may be slightly different from one-another.

thanks for the info.

one reason i wanted to hand file so it was more convenient to sharpen more often. i took some extra strokes this time because it didn't match what the grinder did exactly.

i was going to put some kind of lube on the slide, but didn't...sometimes it makes things worse (attracts dirt). i'll try some wd40.

yea, filed from inside out, forgot to flip the file the 1st time until i noticed it wasn't doing anything!

i do have 2 teeth on the same side...i've always used it as the starting point, even on the grinder.

i believe the box for my semi chisels says 30 degrees w/ 10 degree tilt. that's what i was using. would be easier to do 0 degrees, 1 less adjustment when you flip it...and that's the hardest adjustment nut to get to. 10 degrees looked to match better than 0.

i did attempt to use the stop, but it was kind of a pain to get it to the right spot, so i didn't actually use it. just took the same strokes off of each and visually checked them before/after to see if they needed another stroke or 2.

 

[LD1]

thanks for the info.

one reason i wanted to hand file so it was more convenient to sharpen more often. i took some extra strokes this time because it didn't match what the grinder did exactly.

i was going to put some kind of lube on the slide, but didn't...sometimes it makes things worse (attracts dirt). i'll try some wd40.

yea, filed from inside out, forgot to flip the file the 1st time until i noticed it wasn't doing anything!

i do have 2 teeth on the same side...i've always used it as the starting point, even on the grinder.

i believe the box for my semi chisels says 30 degrees w/ 10 degree tilt. that's what i was using. would be easier to do 0 degrees, 1 less adjustment when you flip it...and that's the hardest adjustment nut to get to. 10 degrees looked to match better than 0.

i did attempt to use the stop, but it was kind of a pain to get it to the right spot, so i didn't actually use it. just took the same strokes off of each and visually checked them before/after to see if they needed another stroke or 2.

I ususally do the 0 degree because the tilt usually isnt as much as on a full chisel. "most" semi chisel that I have actually does call for 0. And even set at 0, you will find that you do get a little tilt because the chain rocks in the groove. If 0 looks better (matches up better when filing) thats what I'd go with. Most of the time, 10 dont match up well.

 

[displacedPA]

I hopped on the band wagon JK I was wanting a 346xp for a year now but I just kept pluggin away with my ol 445. Well I got the new saw 18'' Bar .50chain H30 thats what was on the saw. then i got the dealer to throw in an extra chain Oregon 20LPX0726. two cans of Opti-Lube2 eg++. I felt I did pretty good and it turns out the guy that owns the shop only live 1/2 down the road from where I live.

I didnt start it tonight because I wondering if I should use this new Opto-lube eg++ or use husky xp silver bottle oil. Can anyone guide me?
Im going to get fresh gas tom. as well.
thanks in advance

 

[defed]

I didnt start it tonight because I wondering if I should use this new Opto-lube eg++ or use husky xp silver bottle oil. Can anyone guide me?
Im going to get fresh gas tom. as well.
thanks in advance

the warranty info states 6 months on the 346xp, even if used as a 'consumer' vs 'commercial'. it also states: conditional crankshaft warranty for commercial use when operated w/ husky xp 2 cycle oil - consumer 1 yr, commercial 1 yr.

i plan to use the xp oil for at least the 1st year just in case it actually gets me anything for those extra 6 months.

one thing i really dislike is the 6 month warranty on a pro saw when used residentially. should have been much longer i feel. i mean, i'll put 50 hrs on it in 6 months...a pro will put over 10x that in the same amount of time.

 

[defed]

I hopped on the band wagon JK I was wanting a 346xp for a year now but I just kept pluggin away with my ol 445. Well I got the new saw 18'' Bar .50chain H30 thats what was on the saw. then i got the dealer to throw in an extra chain Oregon 20LPX0726. two cans of Opti-Lube2 eg++. I felt I did pretty good and it turns out the guy that owns the shop only live 1/2 down the road from where I live.

i'm happy w/ the H30's performance. after the 10 (or so) tank 'break in' period, it seems to cut quite fast even w/ the less aggressive chain...not sure i'd even want a full chisel. i've got the 16" bar.

 

[displacedPA]

I feel more comfortable going with the husky xp oil for now. I know the optilube g++ is suppose to be good and all.
who here has a 346xp with the grey fuel cap. Mine does that means non EPA muffler muffler number 544028301

 

[North West Farmer]

Defed,

I do at least 90% of my chain sharpening by hand file, usually keeping the chain very sharp and touched up. I only go to my power sharpeners when a chain has been damaged or needs to have uniformity reestablished after hand touch up over time.

I am old enough to have been using and sharpening chainsaws almost ever since they came into common use. In the woods during falling and bucking operations there is seldom time to slow production while keeping chains in shape. Carry three to four saws to the job site and a hand full of chains for each. In the do it your self setting using mechanical sharpeners all the time works, but in production logging a fella wouldn't have his job very long if he doesn't get very good at by hand touch up. After a long time you can get almost as good by hand as a lot of people can do by machine.

As in most everything, it comes down to what works for you, that's what counts.

Nick, North West Farmer

 

[defed]

anyone tried a 20" bar on the 346xp? i've got some large willow and cottonwood that could use some cutting down. heck, cpl of them might need a 36" bar, but a 20" i think would get most of them.

i'm inclined to think it would handle it on softer woods like cottonwood, but probably not too good on oak or locust.