new jinma 224 pto problem

greg_g · Jan 16, 2005

( It's a Northern Tool modification. )
Appears to be the same little breather that doubles as a fill plug on some injection pumps.

//greg//

Harrygoodwrench · Jan 16, 2005

Actually I believe JohnS and Norm S were the ones responsible for that great idea and followed up by Northern. Here is the modification info on Johns site. I just want to make sure credit goes where it belongs.

http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/NormsTankBreather.html

ToolManRick · Jan 17, 2005

Mine's completely different Harry, but the modification on the link your referring to looks pretty good. The one on mine is much simpler and not really filtered. If you look at the picture back a couple of posts you'll see it's just, as greg says, a vent cap and replaces the stock "J" tube rather than adding a filter to the stock fitting. In my situation it helps to keep the fluids in their sumps on my hilly property. Danged if I can find the exact thing. I know McMaster Carr used to sell them years ago, but I don't see anything readily available. Your correct Greg, there's also one on the injector pump, sans the extended neck.

JohnS · Jan 17, 2005

The vent that could use a filter, is the hyd tank vent. The hyd tank volume changes a great deal, especially if you have a fel. When fluid is in high demand, air will get sucked up through the vent, dirt dust and all. The problem with a filter on this vent, is when the fluid vents out, the filter becomes a plug. I took mine off back when I was having pump problems. Now I have the low profile vent, which you would have to add nipples to, to put on a filter. The transmission and axle vents probably see minimal air exchange, but filters couldn't hurt.

ToolManRick · Jan 18, 2005

I'm pretty sure somebody will differ on the hyd. level changing, so I might as well be the one. Most FEL's are double acting so the oil is displaced on the side of the piston returning oil to the sump. What goes in comes out with the same volume, unless you blow a seal. Even the 3P hitch changes the level very little since the piston is submersed in the sump. A filtered vent certainly can't hurt anything. Biggest problem where I live is a pesky little bee that will fill any hole with mud and eggs. I even had one plug up the .030 diameter vent hole on the regulator of my propane BBQ. Took ma a while just to find the vent hole. Little guys have radar when it comes to finding any opening.

JohnS · Jan 18, 2005

( I'm pretty sure somebody will differ on the hyd. level changing, so I might as well be the one. )

Don't worry, I am not someone that expects everyone to agree with me. I have been on these boards much too long for that. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Yes, the cylinder are double acting, but when they are compressed, arm inside, they use less hyd fluid. ie the rod itself takes up space. I couldn't find any of those cute little java demos, this AM, it would be easy to see.

In the mean time, here is the test you can do: Warm your tractor up, raise fel fully and extend bucket fully. Fill hyd tank to the top and run a hose off the vent to a clean gallon jug. Retract bucket and fel and measure hyd oil in container. You will see it is more than just a few teaspoons.

BTW, I was only indicating which of the vents probably has the most air exchange. Even as the oil heats up, the level rises. How much air exchange, I never tried to calculate or measure.

BTW2, we have a wasp that has the same habbits! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

ToolManRick · Jan 18, 2005

/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Wow what a mess. I did what you suggested, filling the sump to the top with the cylinders extended. The loader came down faster than I expected and blew the hose off of the vent and oil is everywhere!. Just kidding. I forgot about the rod side displacing less oil than the other side. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif