New kubota tractor advice

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I actually think using a loader to dig out rocks is a terrible idea!

A loader/tractor, is for loading and/or pulling...not digging!

This hill side came up to where the tractor's back tires are in this pic.
Based on your statement, I guess I have to put all of this dirt and rocks back then eh.
I just love it when people come up with statements on how others should use their equipment based on what they've read instead of what they've done.

 

[the old grind]

Big difference between having a killer tooth bar like arrow's and like my Ratchet Rake which would pale at the task shown, or none yet. Piranha Bar would be a boon for cutting a hill or a settled pile, another that IMO would excel vs what I chose for other stuff. btw, nice work.

Even w/o chains as the Deere has, for me the trick to cutting is to use the curl function alone to scratch (T-bar or not) and in either direction. This beats lunging with both FEL spools locked and bending a curl cylinder shaft or a loader arm. You have all the power your relief valve will give you and within design limits. Not fast but it'll do 'er.

btw, I have three buckets, two are SSQA. If I bought another T-bar I'd want what's on the Deere in arrow's pics. One mine is drilled for something similar. It'd be nice to just bolt that one on.

 

[arrow]

I keep feel like I’m missing something here. Why would you not just dig around a rock with the FEL, expose most of it, and pop it out of the ground. I keep seeing all this stuff about a grapple. A grapple isn’t going to pluck it out of the ground if most of its buried, maybe you can slide under and pluck it out. I’m not knocking a grapple, they are just pricey and I think for getting rocks out the FEL will work fine.

You ain't wrong. There were about six or seven rocks of this family within the hillside with this being the largest. There was no way this tractor was going to lift this rock out of its lair.
After I dug around this thing,
I had to chain this up and drag it out.
This entire hillside job took 15 hrs total to complete. It would have gone faster but for these stony rascals.

 

[arrow]

Big difference between having a killer tooth bar like arrow's and like my Ratchet Rake which would pale at the task shown, or none yet. Piranha Bar would be a boon for cutting a hill or a settled pile, another that IMO would excel vs what I chose for other stuff. btw, nice work.

Even w/o chains as the Deere has, for me the trick to cutting is to use the curl function alone to scratch (T-bar or not) and in either direction. This beats lunging with both FEL spools locked and bending a curl cylinder shaft or a loader arm. You have all the power your relief valve will give you and within design limits. Not fast but it'll do 'er.

btw, I have three buckets, two are SSQA. If I bought another T-bar I'd want what's on the Deere in arrow's pics. One mine is drilled for something similar. It'd be nice to just bolt that one on.

The tooth bar does make the 100% difference. Would have never attempted this job w/o it.

 

[Aquamoose]

I used my grapple to bite / pluck small boulders which weighs from 200 lbs upwards to 2,000 from a friend’s property. The benefit is I didn’t have to dig as the tines easily dug down to get under the rocks.

 

[thunder86]

Guys I've had more thoughts on this. I took my tractor to the dealership for trade in and getting quoted on a L3901 with backhoe and disc harrow.
I've got some more pictures of a washed area with a culvert that needs dug out and the wash out needs filled. I may put in drain tile also.
Before I do this would an MX with a subsoiler be able to trench for drain tile, 400 feet?
Also a guy I work with told I'd be surprised at how much dirt a box blade can move and that I would be able to fill in the washout with a box blade. This area is 5 feet wide, 4 feet deep, maybe go back 8 feet? It's next to a ridge so I have plenty of dirt. Also an old washed out trail that needs leveled here to grab dirt from. If I started at the top of the ridge and pulled dirt down how long would it take? Seems like it would take forever but I'm unsure. Box blade work with my b2601 is a disaster.
I have a 55 gallon water barrel I can fill and put on my box blade with the MX. I could pull small stumps with the subsoiler and break ground in wooded plots until I was comfortable using disc.

 

[thunder86]

Culvert collapsed, it's not very deep and I have no need to replace it.

 

[dodge man]

It looks like a natural creek to me, maybe it’s hard to tell in the picture.

 

[Reg]

A box blade is capable of anchoring practically any sized tractor if it catches large roots of boulders. A larger machine will have greater fel capacity, but I have yet to see a loader that couldn't be over loaded.
R4's do not excel in mud. Sounds like R1's would keep you from sliding around.
I guess my point is that a larger L series tractor has limitations also, and you should either take smaller bites at your tasks or buy larger and work within the machine's capability.

Kinda/sorta...
R4s a) can hold more fluid ballast than R1s
b) some times "float" vs "dig ruts" the way R1s (sometimes) do.

 

[thunder86]

It looks like a natural creek to me, maybe it’s hard to tell in the picture.

It is a natural creek. Years ago they put in a culvert to drive across the creek but it collapsed and backup the water which eventually washed out a rut into the field running down. It's not natural that it flows this way and the rut needs buried back and culvert pulled. This creek goes dry in the summer and I could work it during the dry months.