New L2501 advice needed

[Fallon]

Is it me, or does 325/350# sound weak for box blade/ballast?

Ballpark you should be shooting for about the same weight on the 3pt as you are lifting with the loader. For an economy L that would be a little over 1,000lbs. 1,500lbs on my Grand L.

 

[jyoutz]

R4's. bro tek 3" spacers to be ordered for sure Bro-Tek

Thinking a 5' BB would be better to fit in tight spaces, could go 6' if I could find either that weighed close to 600/700# and not spend $1.5K

May just get a cheap Ballast box and load w/bricks if I can hit the weight (2/3rd's of loader capacity I think)

You won’t be happy with a 5’ blade because consider that you should cover your rear wheel tracks even when the blade is angled.

 

[rScotty]

SNIP
One thing I wanted was R14's, having loaded R4's gives me pause. Flats don't sound like fun. More "what NOT", given I can't reduce weight when it's not needed being delicate???

SNIP

Sorry, have more questions than answers ATM.

Great stuff, keep'em coming!!!

The alternative to loading tires is to buy wheel weights. Kubota offers weights for many of their models,
but doesn't always advertise them. Look in the parts books as sometimes they are listed there.

The downside to wheel weights has always been the initial expense. Otherwise they are mostly a win.
Where you may see more wheel weights than loaded tires is with farmers and long time tractor owners.

Slopes are a problem with tractors. You are wise to approach them carefully. On my land, I rarely drive across slopes. Some do. From your picture I would feel more comfortable driving straight up and down. Remember to keep it in 4wd when coming down a slope; tractors only have brakes on the rear wheels, and having it in 4wd connects the front tires to the rear. That reduces the chances of sliding or creating a runaway downhill - which is something most of us have done..... once......

For the same reason, I don't like to carry a load in the bucket when driving down a slope. I simply do not want to do anything to lighten the rears or reduce their traction. If I absolutely have to carry a load down a slope I often back down, in 4wd, and slowly.

rScotty

 

[paulsharvey]

Made it about 1/2 way through posts, but. Loaded tires can be good, but they are loaded, and can't be quickly/cheaply unfilled/refilled, so a 6 ft box blade might be a better choice and or wheel wheels.

Since you mentioned slopes and erosion, you can be 100% good on a slope, and a tire hits a fairly minor, hidden, wash out, and go from stable to not very fast. Let's say 15% cross slope, run into a 8" wash out with the down hill tire, and suddenly your at 29%. Not trying to worry you, just be careful.

 

[jyoutz]

Made it about 1/2 way through posts, but. Loaded tires can be good, but they are loaded, and can't be quickly/cheaply unfilled/refilled, so a 6 ft box blade might be a better choice and or wheel wheels.

Since you mentioned slopes and erosion, you can be 100% good on a slope, and a tire hits a fairly minor, hidden, wash out, and go from stable to not very fast. Let's say 15% cross slope, run into a 8" wash out with the down hill tire, and suddenly your at 29%. Not trying to worry you, just be careful.

I’m trying to think of a reason why I would want to unload my rear tires?

 

[needmoredirt]

Put an ETA-66-XDCMP-BB in my cart (which may not be large enough to cover tracks w/spacers), no idea what it's going to cost after delivery (dropped off at the front gate), checkout does not say, I'll call tomorrow before hitting the buy button.

430# is not going to be enough ballast, about 500# light. Seems nothing is going to be heavy enough for loader work/front axle kindness. Gonna have to load the BB somehow. That's a lot of stuff just for ballast.

Maybe just grab the 3" bro tek spacers (for sure) and ballast box, see how that works.

Obviously, I'm not the first dealing w/this issue.

 

[needmoredirt]

This looks interesting to add weight...

https://www.bobcat.com/na/en/attachments/3-point-adapter

Yeech, pricey weight!

 

[paulsharvey]

I’m trying to think of a reason why I would want to unload my rear tires?

Depending on your specific use case; compaction.

 

[rScotty]

I’m trying to think of a reason why I would want to unload my rear tires?

Maybe you wouldn't, or it might depend on what they are loaded with. Or maybe you got a great deal on wheel weights.
Or for flotation, hard surface traction, softer ride, or just don't wamt so much weight or compaction.
Lots of reasons......

 

[4570Man]

Maybe you wouldn't, or it might depend on what they are loaded with. Or maybe you got a great deal on wheel weights.
Or for flotation, hard surface traction, softer ride, or just don't wamt so much weight or compaction.
Lots of reasons......

If you had a bigger tractor it might be more of a problem but those economy series tractors are excessively light to start with. The tires on my L3800 are loaded and I can’t see any good reason you’d ever want to take it out. I’d slap on cast weights in addition to the fluid if I had them. The weight will make traction better not worse. The front tires cause more compaction and turf damage. What weight the fluid adds really doesn’t change that aspect. Any ride benefits with such a small tire to start with would be extremely limited. You’d accomplish a lot more to throw away the crappy seat. If you did happen to have a good reason you would just drain the tires and be done with it. You definitely aren’t going to load the tires for one job and unload them for another. If you had iron hub weights you aren’t going to be taking them on and off either.