Buying Advice New Member Looking At First Tractor - Ford (9N/8N)

[stuckmotor]

I still have not found exactly what the improvements were on the 8N and Jubille from the 9N.

This link should take you to a list of the Ford N tractors, it gives descriptions and tells how they differed. Ford-Ferguson
Pay special attention to inadequacies of the hydraulic lift on all of the N series tractors.

SOMEONE PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG.

I believe the 9N has a smaller diameter PTO shaft, which is not standard for today's PTO equipment. Many years ago someone told me that the insert adapters did not hold up. At that moment he was buying a complete end coupler for the PTO shaft of his mower. Hopefully, these are still available.

 

[Stilgar762]

Please enter your location in your profile, it may help one of us to help you.

Done, Thanks.

 

[Stilgar762]

A 9n is geared too high with the 3 speed for what you want to do.

The FEL can be somewhat replaced with using a pond/dirt scoop on the 3 point. It makes a good carry all also.

I have had 2n,9n,8n, and now a 64 Ford 2000. It is so much better but sets months at a time as I use my Kubota L3301.

The 9n/2n is better than doing things by hand and foot but it has been improved upon so much that they are really not the workhorse you appear you will need and another would suit you better.

You can buy a lot of tractor that would serve you better for 4K.
That FEL is nice but farmers and landowners have made do without for a lot of years.

Those implements you found on the place will probably fit other tractors. The n series used the Ferguson 3 point system that became the standard so most implements can be used interchangeably.

Look for
Massey Ferguson 35/135. Used all over the world.
Ford 600 series
John Deere but that green paint tends to be expensive.

Live PTO and at least 4 speeds or a Sherman underdrive would be a minimum requirement.

Diesel will sip fuel and will run forever. But cost more. And if they break, usually expensive.
Gas would be better for first timer.

My 2 cents.

I did have my eye on a Ford 640 but that sold same day posted. Green costs green for sure. I will look into that MF35. Found one with Live PTO hi lo 3spd and FEL for 4k. that was just a quick search.

I am going to look more into the Massy 35 for sure.

 

[Stilgar762]

Posted a new thread with a lot more info on the property and what we want to do. I am now open to a bunch of ideas

New Member Looking for small Hobby Farm Tractor (part 2)

With all the questions I was getting on my first post I thought I would try this again and see if I might be able to answer some questions that would give members enough info that would help me choose a better tractor. I was originally looking at a 9N then moved to a 8N and Jubilees and 600s and...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[airbiscuit]

I'll say it again, these look like options worth looking into.

 

[Texasmark]

Here’s a much more useful Ford 3910 two states south of him for $5300.

With this 3910 you get diesel, much more weight, power, reliability, traction, good rubber with diff lock, and good gearing.

Pardon Our Interruption

I toatlly agree on this only considering one model vs the other. I bought a 3910 a couple of years ago and no way can you compare the two.

 

[Texasmark]

Early Fords had a 1 1/8" 6 spline shaft....I think I am recalling the correct "fraction", but it was smaller than any of the implements available in later years....to date.

Later standardization was 1 3/8 and held constant over the years across the industry. The Ford Transmission driven PTO required an external PTO shaft attachment, overrun clutch for any implement that had any "stored Kinetic Energy", like a mower. These devices are available at numerous stores and if you have a 1 1/8" dia PTO shaft on your early Ford, you buy the one with that sized input.

Otherwise you can buy an adapter....1/8 to 3/8...and then the ORC, and the length of your shaft is getting to be an interconnect problem with implements.

The problem with tranny driven PTOs is that energy I mentioned, when the tractor RPMs become less than the speed of the implement, the implement keeps positive pressure on the gears of the transmission and the transmission will not disengage from the PTO nor the rear wheels..........you have the clutch pushed in but the energy in the implement becomes the driving force till it dissipates.

This "little" problem can/will/has drive/has driven tractors into anything in their path when it occurs...fences, buildings, ponds, over a cliff....you name it.

Now sir, if you were to go after that 3910 it has an Independent PTO that you can turn on or off at your discretion and it immediately disengages from the tractor's drive mechanism. Additionally when you are mowing pasture and come to a turn, or want to back up under a tree's overhanging branches, the Independent keeps running and cutting the whole time whereas, the Tranny PTO stops "finally" so that you can get the tranny to shift, get it shifted to R and upon letting out the clutch, the rear wheels start to propel you backwards, as the PtO starts turning, meaning that you are starting your cutting as you back up into the corner, not cutting the corner while you back up.......BIGGGGGG DIFERENCE!!!!

OH! The other problem with add on OHCs is that if your implement is of the drag (not 3 PT) type extending the drive shaft messes up the design of the "Constand Velocity" relationship between the drive shaft RPMs and driven shaft RPMs. This non uniform relationship adds vibration to the driveline which get progressively worse as the turning radius decreases (you make a tighter turn). If you ever had it happen you realize that you "really" don't want to be doing that!

 

[RjCorazza]

If it hasn't been directly mentioned, I believe the N's also lacked an over running clutch on the PTO. I never used PTO implements on one, but the implement (notoriously heavy bladed brush cutters) could continue to drive the machine forward or backward after pushing in the clutch.
I first heard of over running PTO clutches in a 4H ag safety class when I was very young. It was quite a shocking class for the age group!

 

[wolc123]

My first tractor was a 1951 8n, which I bought in 1990 from the widow of the original owner. I used it as my primary tractor for a few years. Its biggest handicap is the lack of live hydraulics. Lacking live pto was easily addressed with the addition of an overrunning coupler.

I still have that tractor and I use it for the tasks it does very well, such as plowing with it's original 2 x 12". The tractor was literally designed around that implement, and to this day, no modern tractor does a significantly better job on it.

I also use it on my 2-row 3-point corn planter, which is ideal for smaller, garden sized plantings of sweetcorn. The low operator platform, easy to get on and off from either side, and quiet, smooth gas engine, make it very convenient and comfortable for planting corn.

I maintain those "organic" corn plantings with a 2-row cultivator, which is much faster and more comfortable than the offset "cultivision" farmall that I struggled with for that task, for a few years.

I don't think you would be making a mistake getting an 8n as your first tractor. They have the best parts availability of any make or model, and are close to the top, when it comes to durability.

They have their weaknesses for sure, and might be one of the worst tractors to put a front loader on. If you use them for tasks where they excel, they will have no trouble providing multiple lifetimes of good work.

 

[joefromga]

The n series tractor has one goal and purpose and that is to kill you.

If it can't kill you it wants to tear your limbs off.

If it can't do that it wants to turn over on you and it's not easy to jump off how the running boards and pedals are set up.

If it can't do that it will try to ram fences, buildings, cars, and other people's property as it's out of control.

It constantly tries to do these things while you're trying to get work done.


Get a newer tractor. Leave the Ns in the museum where they belong.