New member looking for help, FORD 345d

[LR1947]

Hi guys,
I'm new to this site and I need help. I just finished changing the clutch plate
on a New Holland 5900 for a friend and now I'm getting back to my Ford 345D
and it isn't moving in forward or reverse. I have a hydro static transmission.
Would be greatfulfor any help or ideas.

 

[TractorTech]

First, a correction on your type of transmission. It is not hydrostatic, but a hydraulic torque convertor shuttle or power shuttle.
2 things cause it not to move that are easy to check. In the fuse block behind the battery, check the 5 amp fuse in the #21 position (hard to see numbers) to see if it has blown. 12 volts go through this fuse to the clutch switch under the LH floorboard. You can start here if you wish checking for voltage coming to and going through this switch. Power, when the clutch button/pedal is not depressed, goes from here to the transmission module (computer) under the steering column cowling. The module is usually not the culprit and is quite reliable. If you find that the switch is faulty and don't won't to spend the money to replace it, you can jump over it. You won't have the clutching ability anymore, but many people just shift the F/R lever to neutral to achieve the same result. The clutch switch merely cuts power to the module.

 

[LR1947]

First, a correction on your type of transmission. It is not hydrostatic, but a hydraulic torque convertor shuttle or power shuttle.
2 things cause it not to move that are easy to check. In the fuse block behind the battery, check the 5 amp fuse in the #21 position (hard to see numbers) to see if it has blown. 12 volts go through this fuse to the clutch switch under the LH floorboard. You can start here if you wish checking for voltage coming to and going through this switch. Power, when the clutch button/pedal is not depressed, goes from here to the transmission module (computer) under the steering column cowling. The module is usually not the culprit and is quite reliable. If you find that the switch is faulty and don't won't to spend the money to replace it, you can jump over it. You won't have the clutching ability anymore, but many people just shift the F/R lever to neutral to achieve the same result. The clutch switch merely cuts power to the module.

thanks for the help and correction, at lest now I have something to work with and I know what type of transmission I have. I have no info. at all on this machine
and believe me, I am grateful for any help I can get. you guys are the greatest.

 

[TractorTech]

thanks for the help and correction, at lest now I have something to work with and I know what type of transmission I have. I have no info. at all on this machine
and believe me, I am grateful for any help I can get. you guys are the greatest.

Is it a 4wd?

 

[deerseeker001]

Welcome from Wisconsin

 

[LR1947]

not sure, the guy I got it from doesn't seem to know much about it either. he said it was running in forward and reverse. but
i found the fuse box next to the battery box and there are wires going to fuse # 21 but there isn't any fuse in the plug in. he
said he never messed with fuse box.I guess I could trace all the wires in the harness after cutting the tape.lost, have no idea
what to do,but willing to keep trying.

 

[TractorTech]

You can splice into a known 5 amp fused circuit on the fuse box and run a wire to the clutch switch or module. At the very least, you could jumper a wire from the battery to the module to try.
As far as the 4 wheel drive goes, it should have a driveline going to a box on the front axle and drive joints at the axle knuckle or joint.

 

[LR1947]

thanks Ron, sorry for taking so long to reply, we had our first hard freeze, down here in Louisiana this pass few week ends and all I can say is come on summer. I'm glad I didn't need my tractor to push any snow. wish you the best, from Louisiana : LARRY

Welcome from Wisconsin

.

 

[LR1947]

You can splice into a known 5 amp fused circuit on the fuse box and run a wire to the clutch switch or module. At the very least, you could jumper a wire from the battery to the module to try.
As far as the 4 wheel drive goes, it should have a driveline going to a box on the front axle and drive joints at the axle knuckle or joint.

one thing for sure it isn't a 4 wd, which I guess I should be glad, second, I tried finding the clutch switch, if there is one, I have a gas pedal on the right side floor board and a dual break paddles on the left side floor board. I was able to locate the module and the harness plugs. Some one install a jumper from the blue/blk wire on the harness to the red/blk wire going to the module. I look at the harness coming from the module and there are 6 wires and I not sure as to which wire I should jump to the battery. The red/blk is the one that has a jumper going to it, would this be the incoming power ? again, I want to thank you for all of your help. is there a web site or place I could get a wire diagram of this tractor, before I end up burning or shorting something out. right now, I need all the help I can get. I really would like to get this tractor going, but right now, I'm going into a learning as you go process. thanks

 

[jitenmazee]

I have a "66 4500 with hydraulic reverser & whenever it is cold, which it is often around here (-16F this morning), I have the same problem. I have come to the conclusion that the transmission should not have hydraulic or tractor fluid (Hyguard or equal) but ATF.