New member - new owner

[Photo1]

Hello All,
First post here, obviously, and just purchased my first Ventrac, a 4500P with 700 hours from a dealer. It is equipped with duals and a tough cut mower. The dealer assured me that the tractor had been completely serviced, and he said that the steering and hydraulic lift noise was normal for a Ventrac. When I got it home, I couldn't adjust the weight transfer. Called the dealer service guys and they said that even the 4500 didn't always pick up the heaviest attachments all the way. Use a jack, which worked. After the first ten hours, though, it would barely raise the mower.
Further investigation revealed that the machine had probably never been greased - that helped the steering slightly, replacing the hydraulic fluid and filters made the steering and lift work perfectly and silently, and draining the black tar from the engine made me feel better about the engine. Unfortunately, the weight transfer still couldn't be adjusted even though the lift cylinder was maxed out. Removed the weight transfer from the tractor and found the shaft bent about 20 degrees right where it enters the big spring. Straightened it in the press, re-installed, and it now works as it should.
I really love this machine as it is perfect for the heavy stuff around the pond and the steep rough ground around it, as well as all the paths in the timber, etc. My only question is: What bent the weight transfer shaft, and should I always set it to zero when not using the mower or when transporting it? Definitely don't want that happening again.
I am happy to have found this site and look forward to learning from the community.
Michael

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

Enjoy the site.

 

[prs]

I don't know how they managed to bend the weight transfer rod, I have punished mine something horrible and it is straight. Your dealer, did he have a VERY long nose of wood? The rough cut is the lightest impliment I have.

The current revision of the owner's manual and parts book is online at Ventrac's site for free. Try not to cuss too much when you grease the drive shaft front U.

Welcome to the fire!

prs

 

[Thomas]

:welcome: to TBN...enjoy.

 

[Photo1]

Thanks for the welcomes, Thomas and Wagtail. I appreciate the confidence prs. From the configuration, I cannot see how they would have bent the rod either. The steering cylinder was in the outermost hole, so they might have had a loader on it.

I have the manual and have gone through the greasing. Got the front u-joint from the left side, believe it or not. The hardest one was the center pivot, not access, but solid hard old grease. Spent five minutes with the zerk out probing with fine wire before it would take any. I cannot imagine buying a machine like the Ventrac and not bothering to service it properly. My fresh engine oil change will get repeated in just a few hours, given the condition of what came out.

My only issue now is that I don't trust my dealer....

Michael

 

[shovelmike]

Welcome to TBN. That dealer obviously lied about having serviced that tractor, didn't want to put a dime into it, just maximized his profit.
I surmise that the shaft to which you are referring is the draft control shaft (coupled through the top link), an old veteran tractor mechanic friend of mine said he straightens a lot of them. They get bent as a tractor-bush hog unit mows through uneven ground, applying tremendous force to the shaft. He recommended a chain in place of the top link in such conditions.

 

[prs]

Photo, I also find it easiest to grease the front "U" from the left. I have done it from the right when the oil filter is off for replacement.

Shovelmike; this odd tractor has a heavy coil spring that is designed to put lift onto front mounted implements even when the hydraulics are in "float", thus transferring some significant portion of that implement's weight onto the front tires. This "weight transfer" has a rod with clevis that runs through it and a lever system in the back to adjust the preload of that big spring. The only way I see to bend it would be to have something flip up in there onto it and then forward motion mashing the rod upward.

prs

 

[johara1]

Photo, I also find it easiest to grease the front "U" from the left. I have done it from the right when the oil filter is off for replacement.

Shovelmike; this odd tractor has a heavy coil spring that is designed to put lift onto front mounted implements even when the hydraulics are in "float", thus transferring some significant portion of that implement's weight onto the front tires. This "weight transfer" has a rod with clevis that runs through it and a lever system in the back to adjust the preload of that big spring. The only way I see to bend it would be to have something flip up in there onto it and then forward motion mashing the rod upward.

prs

He has a 4500 P oil filter is on the right and is no where close to the U joint, the hydraulic filter is on the left side. The easy way is to drill a hole on the right side and that lines up with the V section of the core support and a 1/8 pipe extension for the grease gun and line it to height and guide it on the front zerk fitting. the rear one straight up and it is wide open...... jim

 

[prs]

I noticed he has the "P" and was glad he found a way to acccess from left. I recalled the modification you mentioned, but I could not recall who it was that did it; danged memory... If I had the "P", I would probably make the access hole too.

I know not about the Kawasaki model, but both Kubota models can be done from left or right, Neither is easy. From the left, one is working blind and only room for two fingers to push the coupler onto the zerk, which looking from the front would be at 5:00 postion. From right, the front zerk is at 9:00 like johara explained. On Kubota's the Ventrac method works; going throught the gang of hydraulic lines and the hollow square tunnel, but getting the coupler to hook to the zerk straight enough to work is difficult. With the oil filter off, it is easy to see the target, not so easy to press the coupler on. Ways to skin cats varies. ;-)

prs

 

[johara1]

The 4500 P is a V twin and the width kills you for trying to reach in. Plus the core support is a V shape and the front zerk fitting is lined up the way the tell you to grease it. If the were smart and moved the joint ahead an inch or moved the radiator to the rear it would have been easy to get on both Zerk fittings..... jim

 

[johara1]

My Ventrac dealer screwed me when my electric clutch went bad. My tractor had 3 year warrantee and they told me it didn't and I showed them in the book and they told me it had to do with the engine Kubota only has two years. I ask them what do the electrical parts have to do with the engine? and my engine is a not a Kubota and has a 3 year warrantee. A 400.00 mistake, so don't feel bad they are all crooks...... jim

Hello All,
First post here, obviously, and just purchased my first Ventrac, a 4500P with 700 hours from a dealer. It is equipped with duals and a tough cut mower. The dealer assured me that the tractor had been completely serviced, and he said that the steering and hydraulic lift noise was normal for a Ventrac. When I got it home, I couldn't adjust the weight transfer. Called the dealer service guys and they said that even the 4500 didn't always pick up the heaviest attachments all the way. Use a jack, which worked. After the first ten hours, though, it would barely raise the mower.
Further investigation revealed that the machine had probably never been greased - that helped the steering slightly, replacing the hydraulic fluid and filters made the steering and lift work perfectly and silently, and draining the black tar from the engine made me feel better about the engine. Unfortunately, the weight transfer still couldn't be adjusted even though the lift cylinder was maxed out. Removed the weight transfer from the tractor and found the shaft bent about 20 degrees right where it enters the big spring. Straightened it in the press, re-installed, and it now works as it should.
I really love this machine as it is perfect for the heavy stuff around the pond and the steep rough ground around it, as well as all the paths in the timber, etc. My only question is: What bent the weight transfer shaft, and should I always set it to zero when not using the mower or when transporting it? Definitely don't want that happening again.
I am happy to have found this site and look forward to learning from the community.
Michael

 

[Photo1]

Good comments, all, especially prs's description of the weight transfer system.

I don't remember, but the air cleaner and mount could have still been off when I got to the front u-joint fitting from the left side. I had to remove it to get the weight transfer out. It was still a job just by feel, as you cannot see in there if your hands are in the way. I seem to have a lot of different grease guns, running a sawmill business. I reached it with a 15" flexible. Luckily, it doesn't need to be greased too often....

Michael

 

[prs]

Johara, the owners of the dealership I use was, I suspect, shady at best. He had to sell-out and the new owner seems to be on the straight and narrow. Takes all kinds, I guess.

prs

 

[prs]

I don't think I work in situations that are too abnormally dusty, but I notice the machine needs grease more often than the manual claims. By 50 hours all the locations would be bone dry.

prs

 

[Photo1]

I agree, and while there are some situations where one pump is enough, u-joints don't usually fail from too much grease.

 

[johara1]

I agree, and while there are some situations where one pump is enough, u-joints don't usually fail from too much grease.

Think about the U joints in your old pickup, how many miles do you go without greasing them?.... now you don't grease them at all..... jim

 

[johara1]

Johara, the owners of the dealership I use was, I suspect, shady at best. He had to sell-out and the new owner seems to be on the straight and narrow. Takes all kinds, I guess.

prs

Think about this, why don't any of them advertise the price??? Even on the internet or at the dealership? You can see the price on a Kubota..... or any other tractor plus the implements ..... they are stealerships.... jim

 

[prs]

Think about the U joints in your old pickup, how many miles do you go without greasing them?.... now you don't grease them at all..... jim

They are very easy to replace on a pickup. Looks to be a royal PIA on a 4700 due to access. However, I have heard that U joint seals can be ruined if grease is pumped in too fast; though I have not seen that.
prs

 

[shovelmike]

They are very easy to replace on a pickup. Looks to be a royal PIA on a 4700 due to access. However, I have heard that U joint seals can be ruined if grease is pumped in too fast; though I have not seen that.
prs

It's too much grease that pops the seals. Beginners keep pumping until they see grease come out of the cups, then it's too late. At that point more frequent greasing will push out the dirt that intrudes.
I don't like how the new vehicles don't have zerks, once the grease is gone serious wear starts. Same way with sealed bearings, give me zerk fittings.

 

[johara1]

They are very easy to replace on a pickup. Looks to be a royal PIA on a 4700 due to access. However, I have heard that U joint seals can be ruined if grease is pumped in too fast; though I have not seen that.
prs

No way easy remove the radiator and your looking at it, about a half hour....... jim