Least of its worries now - I had nearly finished tedding a 5 acre field when there was a bleep, a stop symbol and some error relating to the diesel particulate filter. I should have made a note of the error code but thought I had better stop the engine immediately. Awaiting call back from dealer but I think I have found a way to access the historic error codes.
[SOLVED] NH TD5.95 drifts to the right - worse when faster
Well, the dealer has nobody who could come out to the machine but I did find out in the manual how to access the error codes. Except I couldn't. It repeated a symbol which I think refers to the engine running on reduced power. After more conversations with the dealer, I decided to give it another go. I noticed that the amber warning symbol also flashed with a few beeps. I think it was three then two then one. Suddenly the warning symbol went out and the tractor started! The dealer person suggested I start a manual regeneration except it does not allow that unless it needs it.
When I just attempted to access the historic error codes, there aren't any! Aaargghhh!
I hope it does not happen again.
When I just attempted to access the historic error codes, there aren't any! Aaargghhh!
I hope it does not happen again.
Back to the original problem and steering to the right. A local NH expert had a drive and he told me not to drive it on a road until it is fixed! He suggested that it is indeed a leaking seal but the leak is internal to one of the power steering rams. I think the work required is beyond my meagre skills so I need to find someone appropriate. Thank you all who replied. I think it has had this problem since I bought it but thought it was me!
Thanks for all the responses. I had an NH mechanic test drive the machine. His response was: "It's pretty bad, isn't it?"! That explains why I have been battling on our roads with the damn machine!
After various tests, he has suggested changing the seals in both steering cylinders. I have the seals and awaiting a local mechanic to do so. I shall let you know what happens.
One concern I have, though, is that I cannot see why there would be any pressure on either side of the steering cylinders if the steering wheel is not moving. I attempted to find out the relationship between those cylinders and the orbitrol motor but it might as well be quantum mechanics! We shall see.
After various tests, he has suggested changing the seals in both steering cylinders. I have the seals and awaiting a local mechanic to do so. I shall let you know what happens.
One concern I have, though, is that I cannot see why there would be any pressure on either side of the steering cylinders if the steering wheel is not moving. I attempted to find out the relationship between those cylinders and the orbitrol motor but it might as well be quantum mechanics! We shall see.
Whilst awaiting for our local fella to replace the seals, I discovered today that there is a large discrepancy between the tyre pressures on the front wheels. The manual states they should be 17.4 psi but the nearside was 25 whilst the offside was 12.2. I don't think that will help the steering. I took it on the road for a test and there is not so much "wandering" but the steering is still imprecise.
Sorry - British driving term, I suppose. As I am sat in the tractor, the left rear tyre was 25 whilst the right was 12.2. I was advised to increase the front tyres by a few psi due to it always having a loader fitted. I took it for a drive down the road this morning and it is much better but the steering is very imprecise. Only slight pull to the right though.
Local specialist correctly diagnosed the problem being an internal hydraulic leak on at least one of the steering rams. Local ex-agri mechanic changed the seals after a big battle with only one side. The first seal kit was the wrong size - slightly too big. I was lucky that local NH dealer had the correct one in stock (5192826 | Steering Cylinder Seal Kit | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH GB Store). For anyone else attempting this, there is an external circlip holding in the whole shooting match. After that is removed, the assembly has to be pushed into the ram housing to reveal a spring clip (termed "ring" on the CNH diagrams). The external part of this is aluminium and therefore very soft and susceptible to damage. An inner part of that component (termed "piston" on the diagrams) is steel and when the mechanic eventually managed to remove it after much thumping, it showed signs of corrosion which caused the bloody thing to stick. Specialist mechanics usually create a special tool out of a bit of pipe which can spread the load and minimise risk of damage. I managed to fabricate one with my crappy welding skills. Image attached.
Another point which would have helped diagnosing this problem: When the problem was evident, I could turn the steering wheel very slowly and there would be no movement in the front wheels. I could keep turning the steering wheel for ever! Now, even a small input on the steering wheel results in a movement of the front wheels.
It handles like a different tractor and I now realise that the bloody thing had this problem from the day I bought it.
Thanks to everyone who helped. The information is valuable for someone like me who spent decades doing IT support and consultancy but those learnt skills are absolutely useless in agri-engineering!
Another point which would have helped diagnosing this problem: When the problem was evident, I could turn the steering wheel very slowly and there would be no movement in the front wheels. I could keep turning the steering wheel for ever! Now, even a small input on the steering wheel results in a movement of the front wheels.
It handles like a different tractor and I now realise that the bloody thing had this problem from the day I bought it.
Thanks to everyone who helped. The information is valuable for someone like me who spent decades doing IT support and consultancy but those learnt skills are absolutely useless in agri-engineering!
