New member, Old Problem S2554 Click but no turn over

[Papafixit]

2001 Scotts S2554 clicks from the on-starter solenoid but rarely turns over. It has had this problem from very early on, charge lights always stay on while running too. I changed the voltage sensor dongle a long time ago but that didn't solve the charge lights problem. So normally you need to turn the ignition switch several times to get the starter to engage and turn the engine over. Once it did that it always started and ran fine. Recently, the amount of times that you need to tap the ignition switch has increased so much that it depletes the battery, and then if you are lucky it turns over and starts. Now it just clicks from the on-starter solenoid and never turns over. Since the starter was the original, I put a new one in, same thing. The battery and the starter solenoid are new also, I cleaned the rusted ground on the engine and chassis and any other connections that I could access. A few were corroded and the fuse fell apart and it's socket corroded too. No dice, same thing...The seat safety switch tests good and I don't think you would get a click if any of them were bad(?) When you use a booster pack and touch the hot to the starter it turns over, not the hot where the red cable is attached but the other one on the starter. I don't understand why the click from the solenoid doesn't cause the starter to engage and turn the engine over, maybe the new starter is bad? Could some help on this one before I go bald....and mad.

 

[Roadworthy]

Check your battery cables to see if the ends are corroded. They may only LOOK good. Be sure battery cables are tight. If loose they will be resistive to current flowing. Check solenoid connections as well. When solenoid clicks see how much voltage is actually at the starter terminal. It should be ten to eleven volts. If switch doesn't click the solenoid every time the switch itself may be bad.

 

[oldnslo]

Does that model have a separate starter solenoid or is it part of the starter. If separate that internal contacts can corrode limiting amount of amperage it will pass. If accessible and away from battery a fuel tank try shorting across the two main terminals to if the starter spins. This will throw sparks so be sure nothing flammable in the area.

If it spins repeatedly then I would look at replacing or repairing that start solenoid - relay. Some can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned. Some are sealed.

Is this a gravity flow carb where tank sits higher than the engine. If yes I have had carb inlet needle leak and fill cylinder with gas. They always spray some gas out exhaust if they turn over though. Usually oil level increases and smells like gas when this happens.

 

[Mike1955]

About the starter, the only thing I would know to do is place my digital volt meter as close as possible to that solenoid. Both of them, positive and negative. Then observe and confirm voltage at that point while it is clicking. That should give direction in which way to work. Good luck sir

 

[tomplum]

When considering connections, the PTO switch, brake switch, key switch are in the crank circuit. Debris or a dirty switch can keep a brake switch from physically activating all the time. You'll need 12 VDC at the B terminal on the key switch and watch the wire that feeds it off the + solenoid terminal.

When I see a Kohler with an charge light on, I'll first check stator output (~ 28 VAC on the two outside wires at the regulator) Hopefully it is functioning and not shorted. 12 VDC at the center wire and a ground wire at the regulator mounting screw.

 

[Papafixit]

Tried most of that except the voltage measuring, will do that tomorrow. Cleaned the cables and grounds, and the starter does have a separate solenoid,that's what clicks. Good ideas, thanks.

 

[Mike1955]

Since that solenoid is inside the starter, if that voltage remains constant while that key is turned the only thing left is within the starter. Be it a bad solonoid, or a bad starter motor. It might take two people to do this.

 

[Papafixit]

Since that solenoid is inside the starter, if that voltage remains constant while that key is turned the only thing left is within the starter. Be it a bad solonoid, or a bad starter motor. It might take two people to do this.

Starter is new, still could be bad. Waiting for parts to come in and have no time to test anything right now, between the heat, rain and work hours.

 

[alexpops]

Check your cables for internal resistance Hot & Ground both. Might be time to replace all your cables to/from starter, ground, and alternator. Bench test the starter with a known good battery to eliminate that from the equation. If you have to replace the cables, I like welding cable/boat or milspec battery terminals/closed cable ends and heat shrink. use dielectric grease where necessary to delay future problems