Welcome fellow New Member - and my gosh at 5'3" you're quite tall (in my book). CONGRATS on the new tractor - sounds like you made a great choice! :thumbsup:
New Member Wants a New (ok, used) Tractor
- Thread starter TrctrGrl
- Start date
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Welcome fellow New Member - and my gosh at 5'3" you're quite tall (in my book). CONGRATS on the new tractor - sounds like you made a great choice! :thumbsup:
Hi TrctrGrl,
I have a New Holland TC 29 that I bought in 2006, traded in my husband's Ford 1939 9N and Ford 1942 8N for it.
I needed to cut the fields, maintain the woods and archery course, landscaping, digging ditches, and everyday chores. One of my big projects with it was building a road, digging a foundation for a 28' x 50' house, spreading 450 yds of dirt, and putting in a septic system.
She does whatever I ask of her.
Like you, I was in the corporate world, healthcare software development in a cube 10 hours a day. My husband ran the tractors and didn't want me on them so I knew nothing about tractors.
In purchasing a tractor, this is what I did.
Research and select 3 brands that have the features you want. Familiarize yourself with the correct terminology prior to speaking with dealers.
Then talk to the dealers. Tell them exactly why you want the tractor and what you will be using it for. A good dealer/salesman will be asking and guiding you. Test drive the tractors. Talk with their service department and also their parts department. Ask all questions you can think of.
Ultimately it is going to come down to the tractor you want and also the support and service you will need from a dealer, whether you buy used or new.
The New Holland dealer was the only one that listened to me and asked me questions and let me test drive different tractors. He then introduced me to the service manager and the parts manger.
The Kubota salesman was nice but not helpful.
The John Deere dealer treated me like a dumb blonde and told me to come back with my husband. You should have seen his face when I walked in carrying my husband's Urn.
Needless to say I went with the New Holland, Brent, the sales manager went over the attachements we had and verified they would work with the new tractor. They also gave me lessons on the tractor.
Since you are a tech writer, then you know what I mean when I say RTM!! Once you have your tractor, read the owners manual. If its a used tractor chances are good you can get the manual online. Go through that manual while standing next to your tractor and learn everything you can about it.
Have fun, its so much better than being in a cube!
Just my 2｢
Jacky
I have a New Holland TC 29 that I bought in 2006, traded in my husband's Ford 1939 9N and Ford 1942 8N for it.
I needed to cut the fields, maintain the woods and archery course, landscaping, digging ditches, and everyday chores. One of my big projects with it was building a road, digging a foundation for a 28' x 50' house, spreading 450 yds of dirt, and putting in a septic system.
She does whatever I ask of her.
Like you, I was in the corporate world, healthcare software development in a cube 10 hours a day. My husband ran the tractors and didn't want me on them so I knew nothing about tractors.
In purchasing a tractor, this is what I did.
Research and select 3 brands that have the features you want. Familiarize yourself with the correct terminology prior to speaking with dealers.
Then talk to the dealers. Tell them exactly why you want the tractor and what you will be using it for. A good dealer/salesman will be asking and guiding you. Test drive the tractors. Talk with their service department and also their parts department. Ask all questions you can think of.
Ultimately it is going to come down to the tractor you want and also the support and service you will need from a dealer, whether you buy used or new.
The New Holland dealer was the only one that listened to me and asked me questions and let me test drive different tractors. He then introduced me to the service manager and the parts manger.
The Kubota salesman was nice but not helpful.
The John Deere dealer treated me like a dumb blonde and told me to come back with my husband. You should have seen his face when I walked in carrying my husband's Urn.
Needless to say I went with the New Holland, Brent, the sales manager went over the attachements we had and verified they would work with the new tractor. They also gave me lessons on the tractor.
Since you are a tech writer, then you know what I mean when I say RTM!! Once you have your tractor, read the owners manual. If its a used tractor chances are good you can get the manual online. Go through that manual while standing next to your tractor and learn everything you can about it.
Have fun, its so much better than being in a cube!
Just my 2｢
Jacky
k0ua
Epic Contributor
TractrGrl. While I don't have a lot of useful information to add, I would like to elaborate a few points. On the Gear vs Hydrostat question, one subtle point is not that you would have any trouble operating the gear tractor, but that you might feel better at the end of an 8-10 hour day operating the tractor in loader operations. As I have gotten older my left leg really appreciates the fact I now have a hydro tractor again (Kubota L3400HST). I read on another thread, were a gentleman put it in a humorous context, by describing watching his son operate a Non-hydrostat tractor as "swatting flies and stomping rats" all day. My point is a gear tractor is more work, and not as precise as a HST tractor. The hydro tractor gives you the ability one second to creep and the next second later to be at a high rate of speed, this gives a level of instantanous control that cannot be achieved in a gear tractor. It also gives a measure of safety letting you slow down for a fraction of a second, that you might not take the time to clutch and swap gears and just "risk" it. Not a big deal overall, but a "deal" nevertheless. In straight line operatons, (plowing, mowing in straight lines) The Hydro has no advantage, in fact the gear does, thru more power that is not lost as heat in the transmission. But all things weighed, I come down on the side of the Hydro tractor. By the way your thoughtful and articulate post's here are a breath of fresh air, I am very interested in how you make out with your tractor purchase, and look foward to photo's of your new tractor in use on your property. Best of luck.
James K0UA
James K0UA
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Don't let me talk you out of a finish mower, but a caveat, with a finish mower is that all of the larger rocks, have got to be found and disposed of or your new expensive finish mower will find them.. and that includes any rocks, that are just sticking up enough for the front end of your mower to roll up into the interior where the blades will wad up in a heartbeat, and and that loud squaling sound and that smoke you will see/smell is your belt disintergrating. Bush hogs just beat on rocks, turn them to pieces and throw them. Another option you might research is a flail mower, they do not throw rocks, and give almost as good a cut as a finish mower, or so I have been told, I do not have personal experience with them, but I mowed 7 acres for several years with a finish mower, and the place looked like a park. My point is a finish mower does a great job, but you have to be really carefully when starting out until all the big rocks are "found".
Also, I dont think anyone has mentioned the bucket on the front end loader, if you can you should try to get a Skid Steer compatible Quick Attach model. This will allow you to take the bucket off of the loader in a few seconds and then hook to to a set of Quick Attach forks, or maybe later a grapple, or a snow push blade in just seconds. A good place to go and learn about this is here:
How To Video Demos - Implements & Attachments
I dont have SSQA compatible loader, and I wish I did, in fact so much so that I am thinking about "biteing the bullet" and paying the extra to get it retrofitted. I would highly recommend you do get SSQA if you can.
James K0UA
kday64
Gold Member
TG,
I just poked around on the Kubota website and there are some larger tractors that can be equiped with Front Snow Throwers. I would recommend against this though because I recently needed my FEL and my rear snow thrower to deal with the 26" of snow that fell on Southeastern CT last week.
My driveway is only 150' long. However, in this last snow storm I did get to clear my entire street of snow. I figure that I cleared about 1/4 mile of a two lane road using Jinny and her BX2789. (The city did not plow my street for some reason.) Unfortunaltly the BX2789 is only 51" wide so it took 6 passes to clear the entire street. My neck felt fine after this but I am pretty sure my wife would have stopped after the second pass. I was loving it. Oh yeah, please remember that I don't normally have to deal with this much snow.
The FEL was of great value because it allowed me knock down and move some of the larger piles I created near the curbs and at the corner. I just wish the city would take the same care. Some of the snow piles created by the city have created dangerous blind corners.
~Kevin
Jerry/MT
Elite Member
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- Feb 2, 2008
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- 3,141
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- North Idaho-The Palouse
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- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
Yes, warm season grass (WSG) is a bit of an oddity 'round here. I used the income after several years of renting out the property (soybean/corn) to invest in planting the pastures in for our future use. I selected the WSG and cool season grass (CSG) combo (in separate fields) for several reasons that I won't go into here, except to say a primary hope is to provide forage for a rotational grazing program from roughly April through Dec. The first year (2008) was an act of faith for the WSG, as it was way more weeds than grass even though I had started with a near ideal situation. I had the seed drilled into a clean field following soybean. However, by the summer of 2010 the WSG field was a gorgeous thick blue-green sea and the neighbors got two highly productive cuttings from it.
As you noted, CSG encroachment will be an issue. I hope to use intensive early spring grazing to knock back invasive CSG in the WSG fields. Limited spot spraying and small scale controlled burns (legal but yikes for neighbor relations!) are other less desirable options. For now, things are under control and I can often be found walking the fields with trusty scythe in hand to go after the errant bunch of whatever. Where there's a will there's a way, eh? So far so good, but time will be the real judge on how our little prairie matures. As you can see, I'm really interested in forage, some might say obsessed.So I'm all ears if you have more you want to discuss more - but we may have to move it elsewhere.
And now back to tractors...
In my other life, I lived near Seattle, WA and worked for a big airplane outfit (whose name I won't mention) as a propulsion engineer. In 1993 I was accepted into a volunteer program run by Washington State University (WSU) Cooperative Extension called Livestock Advisors. We were trained by the university and certified to provide advise to small land owners. The Extension agents were swamped by small land owners questions and had difficulty finding time to support the full time farmers as well as the small ones. So they trained Livestock Advisors to pick up the workload. Most of us were small producers who had been at it for awhile and had some experience. My specialty was Pasture Management and Beef Cattle. We also had some post-Certification training and I took that also. We were volunteers with the title of Extension Livestock Advisor. After I retired but before we started our Montana ranch, I did volunteer work with a Forage Agronomist at the WSU-Puyallup Research Station for about three years.
I'm curious as to how you selected the variety of bluestem to use on your place? Was it a recommendation from a local Extension Agent? Did it have properties that favored success in climates more suitable to CSG? Generally, it's difficult to maintain WSG in such circumstance and you'd be fighting battle you can't win because the climate favors the CSG. We live in a climate that favors CSG and we have irrigation. Our Springs and Falls are cool and our summers hot but I would never think about trying WSG grasses because it's a losing battle.
I have used managed intensive grazing on a small acreage when I lived in WA state. It's a very powerful tool and I would like to use it here but I have to develop watering facilities for our cows to make it work.
Our biggest problem with pastures here is invasive weeds(white top,canada thistle, bull thistle, etc). We have to spray on our 60 acres and a lot of our neighbors don't and that makes doubley difficult for those of us who try to deal with weeds. Weeds are so pervasive that we cannot use our irrigation water to water my wife's garden (she's a certified Master Gardener in WA and MT) because we will bring more weeds to the garden. We have some very tough weed laws in MT but our county does not so a good job enforcing them. This leaves us no other option but to spot spray, as a minimum.
I would certainly like to follow the progress of your WSG "experiment". I discussed doing this very same thing with my Forage Agronomist friend and he told me it wouldn't work in the long run. However that was 10 years ago and maybe there are some new grass varieties that would make it possible.
Best regards,
Jerry
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Jerry/MT
Elite Member
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- North Idaho-The Palouse
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- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
Last edited:
Verticaltrx
Veteran Member
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- Kubota B3200/L2501/SVL65-2/U35-4, IH 454/656, Ford NAA, Case 1845C/480E/450C LGP
While everyone on this forum seems to think bigger is better, they aren't the ones writing the check. I for one think you could do everything you mention quite well with a 30hp tractor and still have some money left over for implements. I will agree that 4wd, front end loader, and a hydrostatic transmission are well worth the money.
Since you said that you won't be baling hay, moving round bales, and probably won't be doing much moving of heavy building materials, there goes the main reasons for a bigger tractor.
We have 200ac here (50 open, 150 wooded),have a couple dairy cows, few beef cows, gardens, harvest firewood and about 20-30ac of hay ground. I manage all that with a '53 Ford Jubilee (31hp) and a Kubota B3200 (small 23hp 4wd w/ loader). I use a 5' bush hog and cut about an acre an hour when clipping pastures, use a 6' rear blade for clearing snow, and use the Ford for most of the haying operations. The little Kubota with the loader gets used a lot (also for my construction company) and is a great size for many farm chores and light field work. They both also work well for pulling small trailers, running a post hole digger, moving stuff with a boom pole, etc.
As for haying, I make a few hundred square bales a year with a $1000 baler, $700 sickle bar mower and a free rake and tedder. I found great deals on very good but old equipment and I know how to work on any of it if problems arise. If you are only making loose hay, you need a mower and preferably a rake. The low budget option here would be a sickle bar mower which can be found very reasonably priced, but requires a fair bit of mechanical knowledge to operate and maintain. The more spendy option for a small tractor would be a drum mower. They operate hassle free but also cost a lot more than a used sickle bar. For a rake I would suggest either a side delivery or a small wheel rake. Mow the hay, let it dry and rake it into windrows for collection would be the best bet for low effort loose hay collection.
Since you said that you won't be baling hay, moving round bales, and probably won't be doing much moving of heavy building materials, there goes the main reasons for a bigger tractor.
We have 200ac here (50 open, 150 wooded),have a couple dairy cows, few beef cows, gardens, harvest firewood and about 20-30ac of hay ground. I manage all that with a '53 Ford Jubilee (31hp) and a Kubota B3200 (small 23hp 4wd w/ loader). I use a 5' bush hog and cut about an acre an hour when clipping pastures, use a 6' rear blade for clearing snow, and use the Ford for most of the haying operations. The little Kubota with the loader gets used a lot (also for my construction company) and is a great size for many farm chores and light field work. They both also work well for pulling small trailers, running a post hole digger, moving stuff with a boom pole, etc.
As for haying, I make a few hundred square bales a year with a $1000 baler, $700 sickle bar mower and a free rake and tedder. I found great deals on very good but old equipment and I know how to work on any of it if problems arise. If you are only making loose hay, you need a mower and preferably a rake. The low budget option here would be a sickle bar mower which can be found very reasonably priced, but requires a fair bit of mechanical knowledge to operate and maintain. The more spendy option for a small tractor would be a drum mower. They operate hassle free but also cost a lot more than a used sickle bar. For a rake I would suggest either a side delivery or a small wheel rake. Mow the hay, let it dry and rake it into windrows for collection would be the best bet for low effort loose hay collection.
Regarding the Mower
My land is full of swales, boulders, trees, ditches, and two ponds. I use the old Ford 951B 60" rotary cutter. It's very forgiving when I go over rocks or fallen branches that are not visable. It has a good turning radius. This is what my husband used with his antique tractors and my dealer looked it over and said it was in excellent shape and the right mower for my terrain. He also showed me how to grease it everywhere. The other main thing is to keep the blades shapened.
I agree I think a 29 or 30hp is just the right size. The 4wd, front end loader, and a hydrostatic transmission are well worth the money. As I stated my 29hp put in a road involving 4 different layers and sizes of rock. I dug the foundation for a house with her. I have a Woods Backhoe with a 12"bucket and she handles that without problems.
I also snowplow the road but I just use the front loader, it may take longer but it works.
Sometimes less is more.
I reiterate make sure you can get service when you need it whether you buy used or new.
My land is full of swales, boulders, trees, ditches, and two ponds. I use the old Ford 951B 60" rotary cutter. It's very forgiving when I go over rocks or fallen branches that are not visable. It has a good turning radius. This is what my husband used with his antique tractors and my dealer looked it over and said it was in excellent shape and the right mower for my terrain. He also showed me how to grease it everywhere. The other main thing is to keep the blades shapened.
I agree I think a 29 or 30hp is just the right size. The 4wd, front end loader, and a hydrostatic transmission are well worth the money. As I stated my 29hp put in a road involving 4 different layers and sizes of rock. I dug the foundation for a house with her. I have a Woods Backhoe with a 12"bucket and she handles that without problems.
I also snowplow the road but I just use the front loader, it may take longer but it works.
Sometimes less is more.
I reiterate make sure you can get service when you need it whether you buy used or new.
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
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- 7,572
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- Sacramento
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- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
Welcome to TBN.
Your situation and tractor requirements are pretty typical.
Get as much seat time as possible on tractors you're interested in. That way you can check the ergomonics and performance.
For $15K for a tractor/FEL combo and your needs , you should concentrate on 30-40 hp (pto) tractors 5-10 years old. Check eBay for examples and prices. Craigslist is also helpful (I've bought 3 vintage tractors from CL so far with no problems in the purchase).
Your situation and tractor requirements are pretty typical.
Get as much seat time as possible on tractors you're interested in. That way you can check the ergomonics and performance.
For $15K for a tractor/FEL combo and your needs , you should concentrate on 30-40 hp (pto) tractors 5-10 years old. Check eBay for examples and prices. Craigslist is also helpful (I've bought 3 vintage tractors from CL so far with no problems in the purchase).
JimRB
Veteran Member
I only owned one car with an automatic and it was just a winter beater for a few months. All the tractors I have used had clutches. I have smoothed out the gravel road I live off of. I have grubbed out stumps. Plowed snow and ice last week which of course is a rare chance living around Atlanta. I graded my 36x72 barn site with a box blade and a clutch tractor. That was more dirt to move than I thought but just took time. I do wish at times I have 4wd. When I dream of making hay I wish I had gotten a bigger tractor but I know how much work hay is so that dream is ok not being fulfilled. Front end loader can move round bales as they are light down here at usually less than 1,000 pounds. I have not noticed any local farmers with HST but that of course means nothing. What you think you need is more important. For me I can shift gears and use a clutch.
What I do wish I had was a storage shed to keep my tractor out of the weather. I have a little JD 870. Good on fuel but the JD 5 foot mower I have has a metal back of the deck instead of chains. Mulches the grass more and takes more HP. Also does a niuce job breaking up manure piles in the roughs. Horses keep most of the pasture eaten down. If I did not have horses I would need either more HP or a deck with chains to mow tall green fields.
What I do wish I had was a storage shed to keep my tractor out of the weather. I have a little JD 870. Good on fuel but the JD 5 foot mower I have has a metal back of the deck instead of chains. Mulches the grass more and takes more HP. Also does a niuce job breaking up manure piles in the roughs. Horses keep most of the pasture eaten down. If I did not have horses I would need either more HP or a deck with chains to mow tall green fields.
charleyfarmall
Platinum Member
TrctrGrl,
My wife is the same size as you so we have the same problems. It seems that every tractor has different spacing, but they are all aimed at taller people. You will have to try them. For example, we looked at an older NH TN75 and she couldn't reach the clutch safely. We ended up with a newer model with a power shuttle, and she likes this tractor the most.
You are right to avoid HST. My wife likes it the least. I like it for mowing around the fence, buildings etc, but it is a waste for a tractor used in fields.
You can get an old sickle mower for a few hundred dollars to cut hay with when the time comes. Focus on the tractor.
30-40hp is fine for what you plan on and will run a square baler if you ever borrow one.
Make sure the loader has a quick attach. I like the skid steer style since it gives the most flexibility. You will find the need for pallet forks at some point, and I often remove the bucket just for maneuverability, visibility, and clearance around things.
There are many good used tractors out there. Try to stay under 2000 hours if you can. I think you will be able to. Make sure you have at least one hydraulic remote on the back.
New tractors have some benefits and may fall into your budget. Kioti's DK series are perfect for what you want. Massey's 1600's are great too.
One thing no one is mentioning is the actual tractor dimensions. Specifically the wheelbase. It makes a big difference in how the tractor rides and how you feel during and after use. Fields are a lot rougher than they look and a short wheelbase is going to rattle you around a lot. We have a Kioti CK27 with a 66 inch wheelbase and and I cannot use it to mow in the fields because of the ride. My next up tractor has a 72.5 inch WB and is fine in the field at all mowing speeds. I cut and rake hay with it. My NH is a big tractor and is like a cadillac in the fields. Don't underestimate it. You have a lot of field to mow. Tractor weight makes a difference and up to a point, a heavier tractor has benefits.
Have fun!
Charley
My wife is the same size as you so we have the same problems. It seems that every tractor has different spacing, but they are all aimed at taller people. You will have to try them. For example, we looked at an older NH TN75 and she couldn't reach the clutch safely. We ended up with a newer model with a power shuttle, and she likes this tractor the most.
You are right to avoid HST. My wife likes it the least. I like it for mowing around the fence, buildings etc, but it is a waste for a tractor used in fields.
You can get an old sickle mower for a few hundred dollars to cut hay with when the time comes. Focus on the tractor.
30-40hp is fine for what you plan on and will run a square baler if you ever borrow one.
Make sure the loader has a quick attach. I like the skid steer style since it gives the most flexibility. You will find the need for pallet forks at some point, and I often remove the bucket just for maneuverability, visibility, and clearance around things.
There are many good used tractors out there. Try to stay under 2000 hours if you can. I think you will be able to. Make sure you have at least one hydraulic remote on the back.
New tractors have some benefits and may fall into your budget. Kioti's DK series are perfect for what you want. Massey's 1600's are great too.
One thing no one is mentioning is the actual tractor dimensions. Specifically the wheelbase. It makes a big difference in how the tractor rides and how you feel during and after use. Fields are a lot rougher than they look and a short wheelbase is going to rattle you around a lot. We have a Kioti CK27 with a 66 inch wheelbase and and I cannot use it to mow in the fields because of the ride. My next up tractor has a 72.5 inch WB and is fine in the field at all mowing speeds. I cut and rake hay with it. My NH is a big tractor and is like a cadillac in the fields. Don't underestimate it. You have a lot of field to mow. Tractor weight makes a difference and up to a point, a heavier tractor has benefits.
Have fun!
Charley
turbo36
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
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- Michigan
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- JD X739 AWS (3), 2016 Toolcat, JD 2038R
This whole gear vs. HST has been beat to death on this board and is hardly worth arguing about anymore. The myth of higher maintenance cost for the HST has been disproved and if a couple of horsepower lost to the drive system makes a difference then you are probably picking the wrong HP range to begin with. Drive a bunch of tractors (gear and HST) and then make up your mind what works the best for you.
Lots of people have off-brand tractors and like them, but if you are buying used I would advise a name brand that has a good local dealer.
Lots of people have off-brand tractors and like them, but if you are buying used I would advise a name brand that has a good local dealer.
TripleR
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Boy ain't that the truth, we have owned and used them all and still have the old "crashbox" on some and now one with a hydraulic shuttle shift plus several with HST.
It matters little what I prefer, only what fits the owner best.
wedge40
Veteran Member
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- Oct 8, 2007
- Messages
- 2,197
I'll admit I haven't read all the replies, but I do have one comment I'd share.
For now I'd worry about putting the money into a tractor over getting a tractor plus bushhog. I'm sure you could get the neighbor to help you out next summer or even the summer after if need be.
Now as far as height is concerned. I stand a whopping 5'3" and have an old Ford 4000. When I first got it I use to sit on the edge of the seat, but have since put a newer adjustable seat on it. I keep thinking I would like a newer tractor, but so far the one I have has done everything I've ask it to do. It complains every now and again, but it gets the job done.
Good luck in your tractor search. Dont be stranger between now and when you make your purchase. We like to hear about the WHOLE process, the good and the bad. So as you look around and learn dont be afraid to share.
Wedge
For now I'd worry about putting the money into a tractor over getting a tractor plus bushhog. I'm sure you could get the neighbor to help you out next summer or even the summer after if need be.
Now as far as height is concerned. I stand a whopping 5'3" and have an old Ford 4000. When I first got it I use to sit on the edge of the seat, but have since put a newer adjustable seat on it. I keep thinking I would like a newer tractor, but so far the one I have has done everything I've ask it to do. It complains every now and again, but it gets the job done.
Good luck in your tractor search. Dont be stranger between now and when you make your purchase. We like to hear about the WHOLE process, the good and the bad. So as you look around and learn dont be afraid to share.
Wedge
Egon
Epic Contributor
The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly!:thumbsup:
Chilly807
Elite Member
Charleyfarmall and TripleR made some really good points in their last posts, and I agree.
My wife and I have a 35 hp Kubota, which fits us both (she's 5'9" and I'm 6'), so we're not as far apart size-wise as you and your husband. All it really means is that we're not always moving the seat to suit. Most modern tractors are adjustable enough to fit you both, but be sure before you buy that all the controls fall within easy reach with the seat set for you.
Ergonomics is important, so is size and weight. In the Kubota lineup, which is what I know, a Bx or B series is most likely going to be too small for what you need, an L may be big enough, and an MX is almost a sure bet, maybe a bit of overkill. Like the guys said, a little bigger won't hurt anything. Those size tractors (L and MX) make very poor lawn mowers, so be aware of that.
With the size you're looking for, handling small round bales won't be a problem if you do have to in future. Ours is about as small as I'd want to go for that chore. Also if you ever do want to make hay, 35-40 HP will do the trick for small square balers, rakes, etc.
For field mowing, I'd recommend the rotary cutter over the finish mower for durability concerns. I've hit a few good sized rocks that weren't supposed to be there. If you want manicured fields, the finish mower is better, but pasture is fine with the rotaries. I can mow roughly 2 acres per hour with a 5 foot cutter.
Long driveway + drifting = snowblower. My driveway is no problem with a rear blade and FEL bucket, but a friend's which we keep clear is a handful (600 feet plus) once there's any buildup at all. With a blade you need to have somewhere to put the snow, the blower will throw it wherever you want it. Keep in mind that most drifty driveways limit you to one side only for snow placement, otherwise you're only going to build a snow fence in the wrong place, which means more drifting. Our friend is selling next year, but if she wasn't, I'd be looking for a blower. Moving the plowed edge with a loader every week with a bucket gets old in a hurry. The 3400 will push it over to one side for a while, then it just crabs sideways.
The gear vs. HST debate is cloudy. I have gear because I don't like revving an engine that's not working, and I like the simplicity (and price) of a gear tranny. My left knee doesn't always agree with me, though. Waiting for someone to hook up a chain, or move something with the clutch pushed in isn't much fun.
Before you buy a gear tractor, push the clutch in and hold it for at least a minute, see how it feels. Try that a few times, and see if it's going to be something you can live with.
The QA bucket is a good idea no question. Mine isn't (price again) and I wish it was. Better resale value as well.
Tires? Probably loaded R1's depending on your uses and soil conditions, and you'll likely need ice chains for winter. Tires and rims are expensive, get them right the first time around. Block heater is a must too if you're storing with no heat.
Look for something that already has rear remote hydraulics plumbed in. If you want to add anything that requires rear hydraulics, like a blower with chute and deflector control, it's already there.
A good dealer locally makes a difference too like Jaylyn said, it's made her life easier already.
Your price range is going to be a problem I think, in finding something fairly new in good shape with low hours. I looked for a couple years and finally gave up and bought new. Still paying for it, though at 0 % it's not too painful.
As far as material handling goes, I think you have to look at the long term use and buy for that. Mine won't be much help building my barn this summer, other than leveling ground and moving soil. I've seen posts with folks wanting to buy a tractor to remove stumps and rocks in the first year, then spend the next 20 years mowing the new pastures. Two words come to mind for them, one is bulldozer, the other is excavator. Both hired or rented.
My 2 cents, maybe three.
Sean
My wife and I have a 35 hp Kubota, which fits us both (she's 5'9" and I'm 6'), so we're not as far apart size-wise as you and your husband. All it really means is that we're not always moving the seat to suit. Most modern tractors are adjustable enough to fit you both, but be sure before you buy that all the controls fall within easy reach with the seat set for you.
Ergonomics is important, so is size and weight. In the Kubota lineup, which is what I know, a Bx or B series is most likely going to be too small for what you need, an L may be big enough, and an MX is almost a sure bet, maybe a bit of overkill. Like the guys said, a little bigger won't hurt anything. Those size tractors (L and MX) make very poor lawn mowers, so be aware of that.
With the size you're looking for, handling small round bales won't be a problem if you do have to in future. Ours is about as small as I'd want to go for that chore. Also if you ever do want to make hay, 35-40 HP will do the trick for small square balers, rakes, etc.
For field mowing, I'd recommend the rotary cutter over the finish mower for durability concerns. I've hit a few good sized rocks that weren't supposed to be there. If you want manicured fields, the finish mower is better, but pasture is fine with the rotaries. I can mow roughly 2 acres per hour with a 5 foot cutter.
Long driveway + drifting = snowblower. My driveway is no problem with a rear blade and FEL bucket, but a friend's which we keep clear is a handful (600 feet plus) once there's any buildup at all. With a blade you need to have somewhere to put the snow, the blower will throw it wherever you want it. Keep in mind that most drifty driveways limit you to one side only for snow placement, otherwise you're only going to build a snow fence in the wrong place, which means more drifting. Our friend is selling next year, but if she wasn't, I'd be looking for a blower. Moving the plowed edge with a loader every week with a bucket gets old in a hurry. The 3400 will push it over to one side for a while, then it just crabs sideways.
The gear vs. HST debate is cloudy. I have gear because I don't like revving an engine that's not working, and I like the simplicity (and price) of a gear tranny. My left knee doesn't always agree with me, though. Waiting for someone to hook up a chain, or move something with the clutch pushed in isn't much fun.
Before you buy a gear tractor, push the clutch in and hold it for at least a minute, see how it feels. Try that a few times, and see if it's going to be something you can live with.
The QA bucket is a good idea no question. Mine isn't (price again) and I wish it was. Better resale value as well.
Tires? Probably loaded R1's depending on your uses and soil conditions, and you'll likely need ice chains for winter. Tires and rims are expensive, get them right the first time around. Block heater is a must too if you're storing with no heat.
Look for something that already has rear remote hydraulics plumbed in. If you want to add anything that requires rear hydraulics, like a blower with chute and deflector control, it's already there.
A good dealer locally makes a difference too like Jaylyn said, it's made her life easier already.
Your price range is going to be a problem I think, in finding something fairly new in good shape with low hours. I looked for a couple years and finally gave up and bought new. Still paying for it, though at 0 % it's not too painful.
As far as material handling goes, I think you have to look at the long term use and buy for that. Mine won't be much help building my barn this summer, other than leveling ground and moving soil. I've seen posts with folks wanting to buy a tractor to remove stumps and rocks in the first year, then spend the next 20 years mowing the new pastures. Two words come to mind for them, one is bulldozer, the other is excavator. Both hired or rented.
My 2 cents, maybe three.
Sean
Hi tractorgirl.
I may be missing something, why would you want to rotary cut grazing land, do you have cattle, horses? The livestock keeps the grass cut. For putting up hay a sickle bar mower would be all you need I think. With a rotary mower you end up with mulched grass that goes to waste.
As far as you not fitting older tractors, many people used to block up the clutch and brake petal with a wood block to give easier access to shorter people. I used to drive farm tractors from about 7 or 8 years old. The smaller tractors were OK, Though an 'H' was a little big for me. None had that block.
I may be missing something, why would you want to rotary cut grazing land, do you have cattle, horses? The livestock keeps the grass cut. For putting up hay a sickle bar mower would be all you need I think. With a rotary mower you end up with mulched grass that goes to waste.
As far as you not fitting older tractors, many people used to block up the clutch and brake petal with a wood block to give easier access to shorter people. I used to drive farm tractors from about 7 or 8 years old. The smaller tractors were OK, Though an 'H' was a little big for me. None had that block.
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