New Member with some questions-2018 Massey Ferguson GC1720

[Nacademus]

Hello everyone,

I took ownership of a 2018 GC1720 about two weeks ago-it had 2 hours on it. The weather has been wet here in Ohio, so I haven't had any time to really enjoy my tractor and test it out. I only have about 6 hours on it and that's mostly stationary idling or learning the backhoe controls-save for 20 minutes running a box blade up and down my driveway.

I also purchased my tractor with the 60" drive over mower deck-the Massey Ferguson 2326. It cuts like crap as is. I need to adjust it, yet. Its all out of whack.

I have searched and searched but I can't seem to find any help on how best to tuck my rear hydraulic lines out of the way when the backhoe is off-or how to route them when the backhoe is ON. I didn't pay close enough attention when I took the backhoe off the first time. When I undid the bungee cord the links fell down and everything kind of went everywhere. I have the tucked up and secured with another bungee when the backhoe is off.

I just don't like how it is. I'm afraid that I'll accidentally hit the 3PT lowering lever and just rip them off or something. I removed the PTO protective shield in an effort to get some room. I'm still not happy with it. When I connect the two lines that need connected and plug the other, it seems like I'm putting too much of a bend and stressing the coupling. I think this caused the fitting top weep some fluid when being used. I wish I had checked the hose situation prior to purchasing the tractor.

When I hook the backhoe back up, if I connect the hoses and let them go whatever they want to and alleviate the line bending and pressure at the coupling, they want to hand way too low. If I snake them in there to stay up and out of the way, I feel like there's too much pressure on them being too tight of a bend.

Anybody have some guidance on how best to deal with the hoses? I'm pretty paranoid that I'm going to sheer them off or pinch one.



The lights are absolutely abysmal. Even the "worklight" on the back is not very good. I would like to add some more lighting to help when the snow flies or the occasional need to use the tractor at night. I've purchased some light bars and work light pods but am at a loss as to how best to route the wiring. I like to run any wiring as clean and close to factory as I can. I also like to make it so that there are no lasting effects should I need to remove my modifications. That said, I don't know where I could safely mount my fuse block and relays. Its pretty tight in the battery box. Has anyone run their own wiring for lights? I took the worklight off to see if it had a plug somewhere to easily remove it but teh wires disappeared into the ROPS-so I just put it back. I don't want to go cutting anything if I can help it.

Has anyone mounted a lightbar to the ROPS on one of these? Any specifics about how it was done would be greatly appreciated.

 

[irvingj]

Welcome -- you got a great little tractor.

A lot of folks have had issues with BH hoses -- some incorrectly marked with colored tie-wraps, some not marked, and then there's the "What do I do with them when the BH's off?" questions. Everybody seems to figure out their own system. There are a lot of different models, going back to the 2300 series; there are differences in each model, but there are also similarities.

Do you have three hoses that go to the BH? If so, two (one male connector, one female connector) need to be hooked together, as they form the return line for hydraulic fluid when the BH's off. They're supposed to be color-coded, but....

I've devised a system to keep my hoses out of the way when using the MMM -- this needs to be done or, as you guessed, when the 3PH arms go up & down as the MMM is raised & lowered, they can potentially hit those lines or the 3PH apparatus.

I'll post a pic of what I did below, using a piece of 3/4" EMT tube, some bungees, and a piece of #10 THHN wire to keep hoses and 3PH stuff up & out of harm's way. This keeps all the 3PH stuff up, but far enough away from the back of the tractor that the lift arms don't hit anything.

You can see the 2 hoses connected for the return line in a loose loop hanging down on the right. What you can't see is that 3rd loose hose-- it's hanging behind the ROPs, held up & out of the way by a hook bent into the wire.

One thing you might also do (unless M-F has changed things with these SCUTs) is to add some extensions to the BH hoses. This will make it MUCH easier to hook it up and take it off. I put 18" extensions on mine, so now I can back up NEAR the BH --but not right on top of it-- and easily connect the hoses. Then I use the BH hydraulics to position the BH to mate up with the tractor mounts, then back up the tractor to meet the BH.

As far as setting up your MMM, use the owner's manual that should have come with it; there should be a pretty good explanation of the various adjustments on the lowering arms & such.

Hope this helps!

PS-- That steel PTO shield on the back lasted about 3 days before I pulled it off the tractor....

 

[WranglerX]

As for lighting, yes abysmal at best.. Not planning a lot of "night" work with my tractor and I agree LED upgrades would be awesome but for running wiring around where visible and trying to look neat I would use split tube for wire looms to control the wire and plastic zip ties to secure, the is a lot of really fancy way to do this but it is up to you if you want neat utilitarian or exotic...

Might look at "loom" control tubing and plastic tie options (or metal clamps) at local auto parts or places that specialize in automotive wiring...

Del City - Electrical Supplies & Professional Grade Wiring Products
http://waytekwire.com

Dale

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

When I wired my extra work lights, I wanted to make them 'relocatable' for the task at hand. I mounted the lights using 30# magnets, then quite a few smaller neodymium magnets with cable clamps on them. Got the magnets off eBay....about $20 total

 

[WranglerX]

When I wired my extra work lights, I wanted to make them 'relocatable' for the task at hand. I mounted the lights using 30# magnets, then quite a few smaller neodymium magnets with cable clamps on them. Got the magnets off eBay....about $20 total

Like the magnet idea...

Dale

 

[irvingj]

My only darkness operations entail snow blowing in the early AM, but it's true even with the 2300s that the lighting is really poor...

Guess I was lazy: I just bought a good head lamp and wear that while working in the dark. Cheap, quick, and it somehow automatically swivels to right where I'm looking, even backing up! (Also good for any number of other uses...)

 

[charlton289]

I know what you mean about the lighting I have a 2016 1705 and I made a couple of brackets that mount on the side of the loader above the big pine that holds the loader. And I had my son who is alot better a wiring than I am due to being able to get around better than me but he ran the wires and relay under the hood but tucked it under the fuse box and zip tied it. But he thread the wire thru holes and things to get it to the back and come up the rops. He has some kind of black tape that he uses on his job which is underground directional boring so I don't know where to get it but that stuff sticks and need a knife to cut it. But also if you look in the manual there is a bullet plug in the back on left side looking at from the back that is pre wired and fused to come on with the key switch I use that for my phone charger/power point. I have a canopy on my I added so I have it mounted on that up out of the way. And I have a LED light mounted on the back facing back it helps but I don't do much at night so lights are not a big deal I have them if I need them.

 

[Mattsy Fergy]

Here's how I mounted mine. Just a couple inexpensive LED spotlights, a square U-bolt, and a piece of angle iron.
Make sure you mount it far enough back so you don't bang your head into it if you hit a bump.
Actually, since I did this pic, I moved the lights to inside the ROPS to protect them from obstacles.

 

[GC1710]

Sadly I don’t have good pics but I put a very bright light bar under my ROPS. I tied it into the headlight switch except made it only come on when engine is on. I can swing it forward or back. It is super bright. I’m 5’9” so I have no problems hitting my head on it when working back hoe. I have a bunch of attachments and such I’ve posted for my GC just look up my posts I’ve started.

 

[Nacademus]

I appreciate all the ideas. Thank you for the heads-up about the extra power lead!! I found it. That will be helpful!

I'm really liking the light bar setup. Relocatable magnetic mounts are a great idea!!! Dang! It would be nice to put a nice bright LED flood light in place of the "worklight", too. I would also like to mount existing the lights inboard of the ROPS. My first time mowing today spooked me a little with how far they stick out. I really don't want to knock one off or crack it.

Getting the lights sorted is pretty important to me. I usually work deep into the night or get up when its still dark out to snowblow the driveway so my fiancee can get out of the driveway safely. I will be using the tractor now and could benefit from being able to see when its still dark out to accomplish this.


In other news, I've developed a bit of a problem with the tractor (I started another thread) so I'll have to put some of my hopes and dreams as far as lighting goes on hold for a little while.


Also, how in the heck is that little tractor lifting that huge bolder? Wow!!