New Owner Jinma 204

[Catch95]

G'day. I'm in Australia and read many of the posts in your section before deciding to buy a second hand Jinma 204 (under the name Work Horse). Much against the advice of all the local farmers who love MF and Fiats.

The Jinma is a 2003 model with about 400 hrs on the clock. It runs well and I think was used mainly for pulling a cart around a flower nursery. Actually a very large nursery - they bought in 3 Jinmas to trial (they had a mix of tractors) and liked them so much they have brought in 18 more, and sold off the original 3, so they have a fleet that are all the same age.

My question was - although everything seems ok, is there anything I should look for now I have back at my place? I suspect the PTO was never used, and although it runs fine, should I change the fluid?

Would appreciate anyone's thoughts and thanks again for all the info on this great site.

Mark

 

[greg_g]

You should probably assume none of the fluids have been changed. If Jinmas are transported similarly worldwide, yours may still have the 30 weight transport oils, so I'd recommend changing all filters and fluids immediately. On those imported to America, the hydraulic filter is internal. You have to take the operator seat off to get to it. I recommend anti-foaming 75W90 for the transmission and front differential (85W140 in the front diff for hot conditions), AW32 (10 wt) hydraulic fluid for the hydraulic reservior, and 15W40 for the crankcase. If anti-freeze was (or is to be) used, you may want to consider replacing the cooling system hoses/thermostat/pressure cap. Flush the cooling system well before refilling, and best of luck with the new toy.

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

catch 95:

not bad so far, yes change the fluids, as greg said,

I wouldn't worry about the MAIN rad hoses, but the little bypass hose is not antifreeze compatable.

there are DRAIN locations all over the place! block has some small pet cocks to drain water/antifreeze. above oil dip stick, (not sure if you have 2 or 3 cylinder?

besure to change injector body oil, 2 drains on it.

3 or 4 drain locations for transmittion.

1 for hydraulics & 1 for engine oil;, 3 for front end drain.

use no sulpher oil in front end & transmittion if you go to gear oil. and anti foam for hydraulics, b303 universal spec ifs fine for warm weather locations, must warm a bit in cold temps but I used it all winter long at 0 degrees many times just have to WARM a bit before it flows freely.

goto JOHNS'S web site for helpfull insites look and read the maintenance & mods sections for good advice. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Mark M

 

[Catch95]

Greg & Mark - thanks very much for the advice. I read some of the other messages re fliud/oil changes, so look forward to discovering all these hidden drain plugs.

Once I work out the equivalent oil/fluids here in Australia, I'll post them on this site.

Will keep you posted how I get on with my new toy.

Mark

 

[greg_g]

Again assuming they've never yet been changed, you're going to run into a sludge problem in the front diff/transmission/hydraulics. I did a kerosene flush, but if diesel fuel is less expensive it should make a reasonable substitute. You can get more out if you work the tractor for a while before draining. The oil will thin as it warms up, then drain. Replace the drain plugs, fill with kerosene/diesel. Work the transmission for 10 minutes or so in all gears and ranges. Operate the steering and TPH for several minutes as well. Drain, but make sure to use a large container. You'll get more out than you put in. Repeat flush as required. Refill with fluids appropriate to your climate.

Then work on the engine. There will be metal shavings in the oil pan, and rust in the cooling system. Obviously the kerosene/diesel flush won't work, but I'm sure you must have a favorite commercial crankcase cleaner and cooling system cleaner. This would also be a good time to consider new hoses/pressure cap/thermostat, and maybe even the fan belt.

Oh, and a word on the threaded dipsticks. Remove, wipe, then check level without threading it back in. Just rest threads on the edge of the hole to check levels. Top up, reinstall dipstick.

//greg//

 

[Catch95]

Thanks for the extra info - my property is about 4 hours away from Sydney so I won't have a chance to work on it until I can get away from the office for a few days in a week or two.

I'm keen to widen its stance as well - from what I've read it looks easiest to do the front wheels. I water filled the front and rear tyres on my previous tractor for extra stability on the hills - is that ok on a 204?

I'll try and post a pic after I get stuck into it - probably me covered in oil...

Thanks again

Mark

 

[greg_g]

Jinmas start out heavy, plus you should already have suitcase weights on the front bumper and a pair of bolt-on wheel weights on the rear wheels. You might hold off on the liquid ballast till you've a chance to get a feel for how it handles on your terrain. If you anticipate heavy loads on the TPH, fluid up to 70% in the front tires can't hurt - unless you anticipate installing a front end loader.

There are actually four widths between (950 and 1100 mm) to which you can adjust the rear, but I don't know if you really want to fool with the 1000 mm front. Some rims are centered, so there's no net gain in reversing them. Mounting the fronts with "concave out" has the disadvantage of exposing vulnerable steering and drive hubs assemblies, and is particularly discouraged in conjunction with FEL use.

As far as oil/lube equivalents, just consider viscosity versus ambient working temperature. You can never go wrong using 15W40 in a diesel, and it doesn't sound like it ever gets cold enough where you'll be using it to worry about applying additional engine heat in the winter. Mine started fine on glow plugs only, after one -14C night last winter.

Hydraulics are much more finicky, and shouldn't be fed anything thicker than a 20 weight equivalent - hydraulic fluid, NOT engine oil. My winter nights often dip to or below freezing, so I use a 10 weight equivalent year round. Hydraulic fluid is also suitable for the little reservior in the injection pump. Since it only takes a few ounces, you may even consider using compressor pump oil.

Gear oil is obviously best for front diff and tranny. Again, the viscosity you use is relative to ambient working temps. Being in a warmer climate than I, you might find 85W140 suitable for the front diff and 75W90 suitable for the tranny. I found 85W140 too thick to pass in sufficient quantity through the bearing sleeves connecting the creeper/tranny/rear diff. In all cases, use gear oil and hydraulic fluid that is classed as non-foaming.

//greg//

 

[Catch95]

Thanks for the advice on the wheel settings. I'll try it on the lower paddocks before heading up the hills - where I certainly err on the side of caution (including seatbelt & ROPS). I can then make a decison on the wheels / tyres. I do have front weights as you mentioned.

We get a fair temperature range at the farm - down below 32 (f) at nights in winter (when I certainly won't be out on the tractor!), but most days are in the 60-65 (f) degree range in winter. In summer it can get up around the 100 degree mark.

Thanks again

Mark