I have had several Yanmars with cooling problems. The first thing I would do is replace the sending unit. DON'T buy the after market sender for a YM1700. Get the proper Yanmar brand part #124450-44902. The after market unit has a lower temp setting. If that doesn't fix it, have the radiator rodded out at a radiator shop. 50-$70. Make sure it has the shroud on the radiator and the fan and belt are in good condition. If everything is right you should not need a water pump. The water hose flush and flow test usually does not work.
New owner questions
- Thread starter ghmerrill
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I have had several Yanmars with cooling problems. The first thing I would do is replace the sending unit. DON'T buy the after market sender for a YM1700. Get the proper Yanmar brand part #124450-44902. The after market unit has a lower temp setting. If that doesn't fix it, have the radiator rodded out at a radiator shop. 50-$70. Make sure it has the shroud on the radiator and the fan and belt are in good condition. If everything is right you should not need a water pump. The water hose flush and flow test usually does not work.
BruceR
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2005
- Messages
- 429
- Location
- East Texas
- Tractor
- YM 2000B, JD 110, cub cadet 109, cub cadet 70, cub cadet 100
While you're at it, don't forget to check the clutch adjustment. That can have a bearing on your running temp. as well.
Bruce
Bruce
BruceR
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2005
- Messages
- 429
- Location
- East Texas
- Tractor
- YM 2000B, JD 110, cub cadet 109, cub cadet 70, cub cadet 100
While you're at it, don't forget to check the clutch adjustment. That can have a bearing on your running temp. as well.
Bruce
Bruce
Thanks for the various suggestions. My wife is arguing that what's responsible for the overheating is that both rear tires are rather continually rubbing on the hitch arms and that this must be putting substantial load on the motor. I can see that in fact this is true (i.e., that they are really rubbing).
So the first thing I'm going to do is to swap/reverse the rear wheels -- which I want to do anyway to increase stability. Then I'll reassess the situation. If I'm still having problems, I'll probably pull the radiator again (what a pain), take it to a shop just to be sure it's good and clear, and also install a water pump. If I take that @!?$%#!!! thing apart again, I want it to be for the last time in a long while!
I'm kind of puzzled by the tires rubbing so badly on the lift arms and was thinking of adding some "keeper" chains to hold them in. But even so, they're terribly close to the tires. I don't see how the tractor can be used with the hitch down and the rear wheels in the narrow configuration.
So the first thing I'm going to do is to swap/reverse the rear wheels -- which I want to do anyway to increase stability. Then I'll reassess the situation. If I'm still having problems, I'll probably pull the radiator again (what a pain), take it to a shop just to be sure it's good and clear, and also install a water pump. If I take that @!?$%#!!! thing apart again, I want it to be for the last time in a long while!
I'm kind of puzzled by the tires rubbing so badly on the lift arms and was thinking of adding some "keeper" chains to hold them in. But even so, they're terribly close to the tires. I don't see how the tractor can be used with the hitch down and the rear wheels in the narrow configuration.
Thanks for the various suggestions. My wife is arguing that what's responsible for the overheating is that both rear tires are rather continually rubbing on the hitch arms and that this must be putting substantial load on the motor. I can see that in fact this is true (i.e., that they are really rubbing).
So the first thing I'm going to do is to swap/reverse the rear wheels -- which I want to do anyway to increase stability. Then I'll reassess the situation. If I'm still having problems, I'll probably pull the radiator again (what a pain), take it to a shop just to be sure it's good and clear, and also install a water pump. If I take that @!?$%#!!! thing apart again, I want it to be for the last time in a long while!
I'm kind of puzzled by the tires rubbing so badly on the lift arms and was thinking of adding some "keeper" chains to hold them in. But even so, they're terribly close to the tires. I don't see how the tractor can be used with the hitch down and the rear wheels in the narrow configuration.
So the first thing I'm going to do is to swap/reverse the rear wheels -- which I want to do anyway to increase stability. Then I'll reassess the situation. If I'm still having problems, I'll probably pull the radiator again (what a pain), take it to a shop just to be sure it's good and clear, and also install a water pump. If I take that @!?$%#!!! thing apart again, I want it to be for the last time in a long while!
I'm kind of puzzled by the tires rubbing so badly on the lift arms and was thinking of adding some "keeper" chains to hold them in. But even so, they're terribly close to the tires. I don't see how the tractor can be used with the hitch down and the rear wheels in the narrow configuration.
SailorBob
Gold Member
Does the tractor not have any sway chains installed? Mine does. Also, on my 1700 I have the tires turned out and I reversed the lower attachment pins to face inward on all of my implements. You are right there is not much clearance with the wheels.
SailorBob
Gold Member
Does the tractor not have any sway chains installed? Mine does. Also, on my 1700 I have the tires turned out and I reversed the lower attachment pins to face inward on all of my implements. You are right there is not much clearance with the wheels.
Yeah, it's got sway chains with turnbuckles. But (unlike my Massey) these anchor the arms to the *outside* rather than to the *inside*. I guess the idea is that if you get them adjusted just right then the opposite chain prevents the hitch from swinging too far. But as a matter of physics and geometry, this seems a bit goofy. On the Massey, each sway chain anchors its arm to the *inside*, preventing it from swining out.
I looked for inside anchor points to attach chains to, but didn't see any. On another list I've seen a reference to D-rings under the axle for this purpose. I'll look more closely and see if I missed these. Otherwise, I suppose I can anchor inside chains to the drawbar.
I looked for inside anchor points to attach chains to, but didn't see any. On another list I've seen a reference to D-rings under the axle for this purpose. I'll look more closely and see if I missed these. Otherwise, I suppose I can anchor inside chains to the drawbar.
Yeah, it's got sway chains with turnbuckles. But (unlike my Massey) these anchor the arms to the *outside* rather than to the *inside*. I guess the idea is that if you get them adjusted just right then the opposite chain prevents the hitch from swinging too far. But as a matter of physics and geometry, this seems a bit goofy. On the Massey, each sway chain anchors its arm to the *inside*, preventing it from swining out.
I looked for inside anchor points to attach chains to, but didn't see any. On another list I've seen a reference to D-rings under the axle for this purpose. I'll look more closely and see if I missed these. Otherwise, I suppose I can anchor inside chains to the drawbar.
I looked for inside anchor points to attach chains to, but didn't see any. On another list I've seen a reference to D-rings under the axle for this purpose. I'll look more closely and see if I missed these. Otherwise, I suppose I can anchor inside chains to the drawbar.
