New Owner - Used L4200 - suggestions

Jay4200 · Nov 23, 2005

Hi all - newbie tractor owner here.

I just bought an L4200 w/ FEL - high hours (2300), but in pretty good cosmetic condition. I also got a Woods BH9000 backhoe in good shape, and an almost new 4-5 ton utility trailer with it ($15k total). As soon as I figure out how to wire an electric brake controller into my truck, I'll even be able to get it home!

I didn't go through the machine terribly well before purchase, since I didn't have much to go on. The tractor runs fine and seems tight, with no smoke or anything, and the hydraulics all look good, so I figured there couldn't be anything too bad to contend with - and I'm not going to put a whole lot of hours on it. A potential issue is a thin layer of spooge on the engine's right side, and a small spot on the front axle at the chassis interface - looks like they are both from the same source. Something leaked, but it doesn't appear to have leaked in some time - no drips, puddles, or fresh oil/fuel/whatever. Oddly, the outside of the fuel filter has the same greasy/dirty layer on it, almost like something sprayed across the side of the motor at some time, or the filter was the origin of the spill in the first place - I'm new to the whole diesel greasy-fuel thing.

The seller bought the tractor from a dealer with 2000 hours on it, but did not maintain the machine for the two years he owned it (he put on ~300 hours). He greased the machine, but I don't think he changed the engine oil for the entire time. The engine oil level is fine, but the oil is quite black - in obvious and desperate need of a fluid/filter change. I was also thinking of doing an engine flush (the little bottle that you dump into the crankcase for 5 minutes before an oil change) to clean things out, since it is so overdue. Any thoughts on engine flushes pro/con? I'm also planning to change the tranny fluid and air/fuel filters. I have to imagine that the motors use standard filters, at least for fuel and oil, but I haven't looked yet. Anyone know of cross-references for those?

The machine will probably do a lot of sitting around this winter. Should I spray anything on the exposed hydraulic piston shafts to prevent corrosion (like WD40)?

Other than that, any suggestions for douching out the machine and bringing it as up to par as possible? Any other useful bits of wisdom would be appreciated too.

Thanks - Jay

RoyJackson · Nov 23, 2005

Oil in a diesel engine looks pretty gunky even after a recent oil change, so I wouldn't say the previous owner never changed it.
However, an oil change is always a good precaution!

As far as your question:"The machine will probably do a lot of sitting around this winter. Should I spray anything on the exposed hydraulic piston shafts to prevent corrosion (like WD40)?", I put a light coating of grease...same thing one lubes the fittings with (high presure GP grease). That's what Deere says to use.

CT_Tree_Guy · Nov 23, 2005

Howdy Jay -

Congrats on your "new" machine, that's a lot of tractor. I was considering that same exact model when I was deciding what to get. My friend has one too, which I have driven and like very much. Sounds like you got a pretty good deal, too. That is a lot of hours, but hey, if it doesn't smoke and has all its power, what the heck.

Two things come to mind, which is good, because that's about my limit. First, maybe hot pressure wash the engine (while cold, and the rest of the tractor while you're at it) so you can more easily see what, if anything, is leaking. Second, rather than a 5-minute engine flush, maybe give it a 100-hour engine flush. What I mean is - I have heard from many reliable sources is that one of the attributes of synthetic oil is that it scours the heck out of the engine, carbon build-up wise. Maybe when you change the oil (and filter of course) put in something like Amsoil 10-30 (my personal favorite and arguably the best there is, except maybe Red Line), or any other synthetic you feel good about. Then maybe change just the filter every 25 hours until your next oil change. Then go back to dino, or stay with synthetic. (To me, the most compelling argument for synthetic is A) cold weather operation (easier starting, better protection at start-up) and B) better engine protection in case of overheating due to a cooling failure. Since the cold weather is upon us (for me anyway) and since your cooling system is not that of a new tractor, this could kill two or three birds with one oil change.

I bet that after just a few hours of operation with the synthetic, it will become quite dirty, which is a good thing. Changing the filters often will get the junk out of your engine and into the waste oil container, where it belongs.

Try to make sure the cooling system is up to snuff - a flush might well be in order here, as might be treating your new coolant to a wetting agent to further increase its efficiency. If the coolant that's in there looks sketchy, or the cooling tubes (if you can see them) look partially plugged, caked, or rusty, maybe have the radiator flow-tested and/or boiled, rodded, re-cored or replaced. Heat is the enemy. If/while you're pressure washing the engine, blast the outside cooling fins of the radiator to get the air flowing.

Obviously grease the heck out of her with a good moly grease, then stick with that same type forever.

Change ALL the fluids, ALL the filters (you asked about cross-referencing, I would highly recommend genuine Kubota filters, they're not that much more expensive, especially online), check ALL hoses (especially radiator) and belts (condition and tension), adjust the clutch and brakes, check the toe-in and tire pressure, check the charging voltage and battery fluid level (hey, wait a minute - just buy a new tractor - haha just kidding), give her a pat on the nose for good luck and put her to work.

Hey, you asked. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Good luck, John D.

Jay4200 · Nov 24, 2005

( Change ALL the fluids, ALL the filters (you asked about cross-referencing, I would highly recommend genuine Kubota filters, they're not that much more expensive, especially online), )

Thanks for the reply - I am planning to change all of the filters/fluids - and was planning to do a radiator flush too, not to mention all of the other adjustments and maintenance I can think of (or find in the manual). Incidentally, how does one remove all of the tranny (hydro) fluid when a FEL and backhoe are installed? I would assume that a fair amount of old fluid would be stuck in the attachment pistons? I'm slightly concerned with the tranny fluid change because of the FEL and BH - there are plenty of warnings against mixing fluid types/brands, and I have no idea what is in there now. >10 gallons... sheesh.

Please enlighten me with a good online source for filters and/or other parts.

Thanks - Jay

CT_Tree_Guy · Nov 24, 2005

Jay - These are about the only two sites that I've really heard of:

Tractorsmart

Kubotastore

And this is a link to a TBN thread:

Online Kubota parts thread

Online Kubota parts

I've seen quite a few people make positive comments about Tractorsmart, but Kubotastore might be just as good, I really don't know much about either. I've been getting my parts at the dealer, but I just might change my ways.

Just curious, are you going to do the synthetic oil "flush"?

Good luck, John D.

Jay4200 · Nov 25, 2005

( Just curious, are you going to do the synthetic oil "flush"?)

I don't know - I've never used synthetic oil in anything before, so I don't have any firsthand knowledge about the stuff. My dirtbike habit got me into changing oil very early (if it doesn't look new comeing out, it's been too long). I'll probably use dino-oil first, since I'll likely do a couple of quick changes early on to flush the nastier stuff out. I might try synthetic in the Spring though - depends on how things look after the first change or two, I suppose. First and foremost is to get the old stuff out of there and get new filters in place.

Actually, first and foremost is to get my truck set up so I can haul the thing home. Unfortunately, my '01 Tundra factory tow package didn't come wired for brakes (I'm so glad I spent THAT extra $400) so now I have to figure out how to kludge all of the brake wiring pretty much from scratch - and I'm not having a lot of luck finding the pieces/parts and/or info that I need. Crawling under my truck to run the new wiring is going to be fun too. Snow - and me without a tractor to push it...

Thanks for the links, BTW - Jay

CT_Tree_Guy · Nov 27, 2005

( (if it doesn't look new coming out, it's been too long). )

Jay -

Now THAT is a lot of oil changes. Hey, some guys I know change their oil like I change my socks - practically once a week /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I wonder if any studies have been done on changing engine oil at VERY short intervals, like every 2 hours, or every 100 miles. You'd think the dirty stuff in the oil would harm the engine a little between normal-interval oil changes, but it sure seems to be pretty negligible.

Hey, I'm going to make one more pitch for the "synthetic flush". I just talked to a friend of mine in the auto chemical business - he gave that a big thumbs up, said synthetics will dissolve carbon like nothing else. Avoid engine-flush additives he said, and also think about a fuel additive that will clean the injectors and "top side" of engine, not just the crank side.

Anti-gel additives, and possible (probable?) lubricity issues having to do with ultra-low sulphur diesel that will be coming out over the next year are worth looking into as well - LONG story.

Take care, John