New problem with broom - lost hydraulics

[oldnslo]

Will having a U-joint and the single bearing potentially allow or cause the opposite end of the shaft to wobble? Reason for question is I believe u-joints change length every time the yokes rotate thru 90 degrees.

 

[mrmikey]

Will having a U-joint and the single bearing potentially allow or cause the opposite end of the shaft to wobble? Reason for question is I believe u-joints change length every time the yokes rotate thru 90 degrees.

As long as you have them timed you'd be ok. By timed I mean the yokes on each end being on the same plane, in other words, if you put a piece of round bar thru the yoke holes on each end they're parrallel.
Just thinking out of the box here so bear with me. If the spline on the pump is screwed up which makes it probably not worth while rebuilding why couldn't you weld the new yoke onto the pump shaft...nothing to lose since the pump would be toast anyway....just a thought

 

[Doaaj50]

I think that the heat from welding on the pump shaft will destroy the pump shaft seal. If you go with a u-joint then I would look for a clamp style hub.

 

[dstig1]

I got it apart and had a good look at it. The splines on the coupler are totally sheared off clean. You can see them down farther inside the coupler but they should be out to the end all the way:

I have read all the comments, and thank you for the suggestions and compliments on the work. I made it this way so there would be no loose parts. The pump does slide right into the coupler as I carefully aligned it during final assembly but it is certainly possible to be off a fraction of a degree (actually likely in reality) and that may contribute to it. I am also thinking shock loading may be an issue.

There is not enough room for another Universal joint and I don't think that is the solution. A few of you mentioned a Lovejoy coupling and I had been thinking along those lines too. Unfortunately that leads to loose pieces that I could lose but it is all secured in place at the end so there is no longitudinal movement within the shaft that should cause the spider to fall out, so I think that is the way to go to deal with any slight misalignment and shock loading. Now I need to find one rated high enough that fits. I have 4.5" to the front of the bearing (the blue line), and a ~40-45ish hp PTO rating:

The pump shaft is a bit beaten up but should be fine. And no I won't weld on the pump shaft at all. I have found lovejoys with the same 13 tooth 7/8" spline, so I just need to find a 1.75" dia keyed half for the shaft or modify the shaft end, which may be very tricky to pull off.

A couple mentioned grease and I had put some grease into the coupler but it was just regular bearing grease. I think I will get some of the Moly paste and use that in Version 2.

Here is what the pump shaft looks like.

The only nagging question I have is if something in the hydraulic loop jammed and caused this to shear or if it was just shock loading or the like that lead to it. If there is something in the hydraulics that caused this, the new coupling may last 0.1 sec... I guess I will find out...

 

[mrmikey]

If there is something in the hydraulics that caused this

Unless it's a constant beating/hammering I'm thinking the pressure relief should handle it. What's the relief set at, possibility it's too high?
The pump shaft doesn't look too bad at all.
If the coupling on the pump end is tight i.e. clamped as j50 said that may stop the wear on the pump splines and salvage what is left without finishing it off. You could leave enough space at the spider to make up for expansion. Wouldn't be more than 1/8" I would think.
Pics are great as is the documentation

 

[oldnslo]

Dave
Put a pliers on the pump shaft and see if it turns. Not uncommon they won’t turn by hand but should turn with pliers on the shaft.

When you pulled the pump out was there sheared teeth from the coupling in the pump splines or mostly just shavings? Sheared teeth would points towards shock load failure while shavings would points towards soft material wore out.

I was thinking remove the last carrier bearing and make new shaft with u- joint on each end.

 

[dstig1]

Pump turns easy with pliers. Should be no issue there. Good call. Not sure on the shavings vs chunks in the splines as much of it fell out when I pulled it.

I found and spec'd a Lovejoy. Dayum they get pricey at this size! Should be out a week or so, and will get ordered tomorrow. The one issue I see for sure is that it is almost certainly going to interfere with the cross brace plate below the front where the coupler sits. So I will need to pull the subframe and hack out that section when it shows up and I know how much to cut away. I don't think it will cause any structural issues as it is quite robust. This way i will be able to fit everything on the bench where it will be a lot easier to work on, too.

 

[oldnslo]

Glad the pump appears undamaged

Hope the storm headed this way at end of week doesn’t dump on you when your broom is out of service.

 

[dstig1]

My lovejoy showed up today. It is BIG. See pic. I sized it up with the space and you can see how it is about 1/2" too long to fit in between the bearing collar and the front. So I need to shorten it, which I was expecting, shorten the old shaft that it goes onto (sticking through the bearing below it) and cut a matching keyway in that shaft. Plus I need to cut away much of that plate you see down below. Interesting tidbit is the stub of the coupler on the right fits very nicely into the opening for the pump, so I can use that to align it all pretty darn close with the pump shaft. Oh and I need to come up with 7/16" key stock for the keyway.

 

[Doaaj50]

Wow, that is a big coupling! It‘s a bummer that it doesn’t fit in your original frame. Thanks for keeping us updated as you work through this one. Can’t wait to see more pics of it back in action!