New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?

   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #11  
It has never seemed to hurt my fuel but if your running the machine and it gels in the filter ( wax billed up) you throw the filter away and replace it with a new one. I had an old backhoe many years ago and it got to -30 with summer fuel & no additive in the tank. It wouldn't start so I took of the cap and looked in all gelled so I bought a quart of kerosene dumped it in and stirred it with a stick and the darn thing started to my surprise. The filter from a case tractor when it gelled up I took it out and placed it on a rock and the following summer the sun barely melted the wax out of it. This was over 20 years ago before I started using an additive.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #12  
I have 2 outside gravity fed tanks(300 gal/150 gal for the past 10 years.I use additives in each,diesel opti-lube plus bio-cide in the gas marine grade stabil.I change the filters once a year,no issues to date..I have them filled twice per year..
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #13  
<snip>
Newbury - I doubt I would use 100 gallons in a year, so this is likely a 3 year supply.

Hopefully the water separator will handle any water (an additive can't hurt)
How should I treat (prevent) algae?
I haven't had fuel gel on me in the last 3 years, but when it was super cold, I wasn't outside. If I can treat the fuel to avoid gelling and not effect the fuel for the warmer weather - I'd be glad to hear how!
That's why I questioned if you would use 100 gallons/year, which a 300 gallon tank could supply. Could you get a bulldozer? I read they burn fuel pretty well :)
Most additives contain a biocide, just be sure yours does.
A little treatment for gelling, Power Service, Standyne, etc shouldn't make diddly difference in performance at your usage rate. Just run your summer blend and add the gel proofing to the tank when you are running it in the winter
But be sure to add biocide and do water protection year around.


Billrog - I agree. My Kubota dealer recommended running only summer blends and to stock up in the fall to hold me over for winter if I could.

We don't go past -5 F often. It's usually just a cold snap. Will the fuel "un-gel" if it warms back up?
Fuel "un-gels" as it warms up, no problem - the problem is when you go out to start the equipment and it is gelled up/clouded up and the fuel won't flow.

At 32 degrees it starts clouding, at 10 to 15 it starts gelling. The only time I had a problem was at 40 below in Northern Vermont with fuel I bought in southern New Jersey. I think it was like a block of jello. I had to bathe the fuel filter and line in hot water to get my engine started. Poured kerosene in the tank and shook the car.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #14  
Life span is a good point I go through a few 300 gal. tanks a year but my son has used diesel from tidy tanks he said had been sitting around a few years in his pick-ups on occasion and said he had no trouble but not some thing I would go out of my road to do.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #15  
I use 1200 gallons a year and buy it 50 gallons at a time. I treat for gelling and algae. I just struggle trying to comprehend buying fuel today that I'm going to possibly use in 2020. :)
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Newbury -

Here is what Stanadyne states, I don't see anything specific for a biocide...

Restores/Increase Horsepower detergents clean deposits in the injection system resulting in improved combustion, better acceleration, power, and torque
Reduces Fuel Consumption independent tests show an average of 4% improvement in MPG and gains up to 9.6%
Cetane Improver improves combustion resulting in better engine starting, smooth running, and reduced engine noise
Meets all engine fuel system requirements and will not harm exhaust aftertreatment systems
Reduces Emissions reduces Smoke and Particulates
Cleans and Protects detergents and deposit modifiers help protect injection pumps, injectors, nozzles, etc.
Reduces Wear lubricity improvers restore lubricity to ultra low sulfur and other low lubricity diesel fuels
Stabilizes Fuel - keeps fuel fresher and protects against formations of gums caused by oxidation
Cold Weather Protection improves diesel pour point up to 40ーF (22ーC), and cold filter plug point by up to 25ーF (13ーC), depending on base fuel
Corrosion Preventative Corrosion inhibiters will protect the fuel system from rust and corrosion
Helps Remove Water special demulsifiers cause tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion, so the filter/separator can more effectively remove water
Contains No Alcohol avoids corrosion and accelerated wear
Specially Formulated for use with ultra low sulfur diesel fuel
Can be used with Bio Diesel Fuel up to B20 (20% bio content approved ) increased water separation shown in bio content up to B20

Would you still add a biocide? Recommendations? Treat the tractor tank for gelling in the fall/winter or the storage tank? Or just treat it year round for gelling and not have to worry about it? What seems to be the go to for anti-gelling?

I'll let the water filter handle the water issue.

Like I said, I'd rather spend a few bucks more and not worry, especially since I have potentially a 3 year supply on hand. I tried to get a 150 gallon but had a hard time finding one. Plus with the minimum order quantity, the 300 just was the only choice it seemed. It'll save my back, my aggravation with 5 gallon jugs and allow me to save a few bucks on the off road.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #17  
I use 1200 gallons a year and buy it 50 gallons at a time. I treat for gelling and algae. I just struggle trying to comprehend buying fuel today that I'm going to possibly use in 2020. :)

I agree, unless you are a prepper it doesn't make sense to store diesel long term. About 3 years ago I almost filled one of my 300 gallon totes with diesel when it dropped down to about $3.50 a gallon. Was going to protect myself from prices going up. Now my last fillup was at about $2.20/gallon.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I agree, unless you are a prepper it doesn't make sense to store diesel long term. About 3 years ago I almost filled one of my 300 gallon totes with diesel when it dropped down to about $3.50 a gallon. Was going to protect myself from prices going up. Now my last fillup was at about $2.20/gallon.

A large diesel generator is next on my to - get list. I'm the last house that ever seems to get power back here in the sticks....so also sort of a prepper move!
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #19  
Until recently I had never heard of biocide or algae in tanks so I really have no opinion base on any knowledge what so ever. This post has reminded me I have a forklift with a 40 gal. tank I foolishly filled to the top 5 yrs. ago. It gets used regularly during the summer but only for very short intervals and as of 2 wks. ago when I used it last it still had nearly 1/2 a tank of the 5 yr. old diesel in it but started and ran fine. In the spring I'm going to drain the tank and check for algae.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #20  
Yes, it will ungel.

My question, for those that keep fuel for years, is, does the treatment last forever? So if I fill my 300 gallon tank and treat it for temperatures as well as algae, is it good for years without further treatment???

My pea sized brain just can't grasp keeping fuel for years. I don't understand why? Would be kinda like buying 437 cans of fruit cocktail. :)

So treatments slow but do not stop a few things-

Water absorption
Vapor loss- the vapors are the more volatile parts of fuel so over time you are loosing BTU or whatever else you want to rate the "power" of the fuel. "Stabilizers" only slow this.
Contamination- other junk getting in the fuel or coming off the tank
The anti gelling products prevent the paraffin from forming large chunks. I don't know what happens to that chemical over time.
I've never seen a product that has a retreatment spec so I don't believe continuing to add product makes the fuel whole again.

If the OP insists on a 3 year supply he will need to filter and separate water for sure. Then add products to "stabilize", prevent gelling and prevent algae. I prefer the Biobor products. They have a long track record, are MILSPECed and used in other industries. They are competitively priced as well. I would also suggest topping off the fuel every 1/4-1/2 tank or yearly. Keep the tank sealed as well.

Big standby generators that aren't propane (which is more stable and has a better shelf life) run regularly. This helps the engine, ensures proper performance and, for this discussion, turns the fuel over.

BTW my wife is the prepper in our family as well! Good luck!
 

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