New to America and Tractors

   / New to America and Tractors #11  
I've never had luck with a magnetic heater. Maybe mine just wasn't powerful enough. Inquire about an electric block heater, or an in-line radiator (hose) heater, if applicable.
A warm engine will turn easier. A cold block will inhibit diesel fuel from reaching it's auto-ignition temperature that's developed by compression (i.e. no spark plugs).
If diesel, treat your fuel with an anti-gel additive when temps start to dip below 40 deg F. (e.g. Power Service white bottle).

Regarding having dual wheels, you have to decide if you want floatation versus "digging in". In most cases, but not all, duals will get you through more places than not having them. Chains all always an option. Given the slope of your land, don't ignore that duals are going to give you a lot more stability and confidence on side hills. IMHO, this would make them worth their weight in gold.

Regarding horsepower required for snowblowers. There's no one answer. Horsepower required is directly related to how deep is the snow, how heavy (dense) is the snow and how fast do you want to go? Basically, how many pounds/sec are you running through it. Snow storms vary drastically.
 
   / New to America and Tractors #12  
Yeah, you know that you are going to spend a ton of money on all the snow removal gear and global warming will keep vermont snow free for 4 years, and then you will sell it all very disgusted and the fifth year it will be record snows.
 
   / New to America and Tractors #13  
I'm in northeast pa so 24" snow dumps not uncommon but I certainly don't see the volume that you do if your in the mountains.......I started out with a tracked snow blower but quickly gave up after getting tired of constantly replacing shear pins because of the stones on the drive.......I strictly use the pt to plow now........for me it depends on the storm and type of snow as to when I'll plow........if it's a heavy wet snow then I won't let it get above 6"-8" as any more then that I'll be crabbing and it takes forever to finish the drive.......if it's a dry snow I'll let it go 12"+ before plowing.......this means on big storms I will be plowing multiple times but I haven't had a storm yet that it couldn't handle using this method......I do keep it in a heated garage so starting has never been a problem.......I do have chains on the rear wheels and I couldn't plow without them......if I had the clearance to put them on the front I would do that too..........Jack
 
   / New to America and Tractors #14  
For your application, I think a diesel tractor will be the way to go, both from a economy and a capability view. As for starting, I assume you will have some kind of barn/shed to store the equipment. If you insulate and heat enough of it for a shop and tractor parking, starting issues go away. I have an insulated pole barn with a wood stove. Even if I'm not working out there, I operate the stove enough to keep it above freezing. Any diesel will start easily at that temperature.
 
   / New to America and Tractors
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks again.
Woodland, with the rain we've had up here I'm tempted to skip the house build and just go straight to building an Ark.
Hi Jack, PT are telling me that the diesel motors start as well as the gas in the cold, which is odd, the local advice I got today is that a heated garage can't wait, it's a basic requirement, so I'm looking to pick up a 20x8x8 shipping container near Tazewell and getting that shipped up to VT to become my instant heated garage.
PT are also telling me the 1430 is the minimum I should be considering for the gradients of my plot, seeing that I can't afford the TSM class that kinda makes the decision for me.
 
   / New to America and Tractors #16  
If you are in the lean to stage, a portable construction space heater under a canvas tarp should do it for you, but don't overheat the diesel fuel! The issue for the PTs in the cold is that the engine has no clutch, so the engine starter has to crank cold oil is in all three pumps, plus the engine. PowerTrac does sell plugin heaters now. I would definitely consider one.

Definitely think about buying the Deutz glow heaters for the intakes. Similar ones make a world of difference on my other big diesel.

I would make the 1430 vs 1445 decision based on other items, like how much you plan to use the buckets to carry wet soil or rock. At the end of the day, the 15 extra HP isn't likely to get you through the sugar maple trails that much quicker brush cutting, compared to sharpening the blades and putting chains on. That said, I know that 50% of the time a 1430 would work for me. The other 50%, I need the lift capability, which would mean reading pallet loads of lumber or bricks apart, and restacking. For snow plowing (vs. snow blowing) extra weight is a bonus. Every once in awhile I think that I should have bought a 1850, but then I think of all of the high lifts, and pallets, and I'm OK not going out on the 45 degree slopes. 25 degrees is hairy enough for me. I have driven 45 at Tazewell, and I don't have the intestinal fortitude that some of you guys have for driving across 45 degree slopes. My hat is off to you guys.

Test driving one at the factory made all the difference for me. I was comparing the 1445 to the 1845. So I have never driven a 425, so I can't comment on the relative merits. Cold starts are tough for all of these.

The skin so soft works against the black flies. Deer flies and horse flies- good reflexes are the only thing that I have found to work. I used to work across the border, near Littleton, NH.

The photo looks gorgeous! Are you in the house or the caravan?

All the best,

Peter
 
   / New to America and Tractors #17  
I'll offer this... the PT425 is not a slope rated machine. My 2001 model year with the Kohler engine is rated at 25 degree slopes due to the engine oiling system limits. Anything over that can starve the engine of oil. With that said, I've run it up and down short slopes steeper than that but not across slope for long distances. I don't know the limits of the Subaru powered 425's.

I usually run out of traction before running out of power going up slopes. The front tires will start spinning when brush cutting, for example. So I pull the joystick back an inch, lift the implement off the ground an inch, that transfers the weight of the implement to the front tires and up the hill I go. But there just comes a point where I'm out of traction and that usually means the slope is too steep and I find another way to get around and come down from the top.

Remember, the 425 only weighs about 1500 pounds. So there's only about 375# on each tire on flat ground.
 
   / New to America and Tractors
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Hi Peter,

thanks for the link and advice.
As always it's that balancing act of what one wants and what one can afford. The 1850 looks great but it would seriously dent my bank balance.
I hope to go south this week and try the different models and make a call from there.

Our house is no more than a flat slab of concrete at the moment but the in-laws next door are very kindly putting us up and putting up with us.

IMG_20170719_201312203 (1).jpg
 
   / New to America and Tractors #19  
That is one heck of a view!

Incidentally, as MR points out, the lack of a slope rating for the green gas machines was the primary reason that I went with the diesels. Zero regrets on that one.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / New to America and Tractors #20  
Looks like a beautiful setting!

While I love my PT422 I really never gave it a thought for snow plowing. We get way too much wet snow and windy conditions. Pushing the snow with my old F250 in a heated cab and radio playing is my preference.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2008 Ford Escape Hybrid SUV (A51694)
2008 Ford Escape...
2010 Ford Edge SE SUV (A51694)
2010 Ford Edge SE...
UNUSED JCT HYD AUGER (A51248)
UNUSED JCT HYD...
BUSH HOG 7007 LOT NUMBER 111 (A53084)
BUSH HOG 7007 LOT...
2011 Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedan (A51694)
2011 Mercedes-Benz...
2004 MACK GRANITE CV713 DUMP TRUCK (A51406)
2004 MACK GRANITE...
 
Top