New to Quick Hitches - What do I need?

[dirt ditch]

http://www.tractorsupply.com - countyline quick hitch bushing kit cat 1
The really nice bushings you linked are held on by a Roll/slotted spring steel pin that you hammer through the holes. I have them on my ballast box and rear blade.
View attachment 456221

http://www.tractorsupply.com - countyline cat2 to cat1 lift arm bushing
These bushings are much cheaper and easily taken off one attachment and placed on another. I have them on my box blade and 3pt road grader.
View attachment 456222 View attachment 456225

http://www.tractorsupply.com - countyline cat2 to cat1 top link bushing
I also use a top link bushing with the JD quick hitch I have. It has the same size hook as the lift hooks so I could just use another lift arm bushing but I don't have any problems with the smaller top link bushing.
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[oldballs]

DD, Nice clean way to add weight to that box blade..........should really make a difference. Haven't seen a post from Compact Tractor Fan in a while. Land Pride QH is a great product, and their bushings too, expensive also. Had to buy several sizes to get every attachment mounted. IIRC, i almost went blind reading the fractional sizes/lengths.

 

[jenkinsph]

For light use in most cases you can get by without the bushings. If you use the implements a lot and have higher draft loads then having the correct bushings lowers the amount of wear on the pins and ball sockets. The top link and bottom links are different sizes but for most quick hitches they use cat 3 size pins.

So for the top link on a cat 1 implement the easiest way to fit is to use a cat 1 to cat 2 bushing with a cat 2 to cat 3 top link bushings over a 3/4" pin. For some implements that I have modified to work with quick hitches I have welded in a piece of a standard cat 3 top link pin. Depends on the implement and what is the best fit for permanent solution.

The lower links work the same way but I can usually find the cat 1 to cat 3 solid bushings about 2 inches long to fit most clevis hitches and these slip over the 7/8" pins. For the standard hitch pins the adaptors with the shoulders are preferable and are available for cat 1 and cat 2 sized pins. You could also use a standard cat 3 pin if it would fit the holes in your implement. While I have used the slip over bushings and clevis for lower links I am more likely to loose the hardware or have it borrowed for another implement. Once I install the adaptors with shoulders using the roll pin it seems to stay in place and is there when I need it.

 

[Texasmark]

I bought Pat's brand of quick hitch. You order the size for the category of implement/tractor lift arms you have. They come with some large flat washers that have been bent to fit over the pin before you snap in the linch pin. All they do is aid in getting the hitch in the right place under the implement.....a large flat washer would suffice in my opinion which i have used when I couldn't find the bent washers that Pat's had.

Since I ordered Cat 2 to fit my after market, PO installed, lift arms on my 3000, the hitch fits my arms just fine and I just use a common old Cat 2 sleeve/bushing over my Cat 1 pins.

The best thing that came with Pat's was the adjustable linkage bar that sets the width of your lift arms...just makes alignment with the implement a dream......but be sure and remove it if you are running a PTO driven implement....interference of drive line when lifting implement.

I am very happy with mine and makes it a dream to hook up implements with my Fords that used to be approaching a nightmare at times, farming alone.

I don't know what it takes on the HF units. Just throwing this in to possibly help in understanding just what's needed in addition to the units and what's not.

 

[RoyJackson]

I just recently purchased my first quick hitch from Harbor Freight Tools. I have never used one before, so I'm wondering what parts I will need.


View attachment 456156

What do I need to place on the draw pins circled in the photo to secure the attachments? Can I just throw a lynch pin on the end and call it a day, or do I need something special like these bushings?

CountyLine Quick Hitch Bushing Kit, Cat 1 - For Life Out Here

If so, how do they install? And where in your experience is the cheapest place to purchase them?

Thanks for any input you can provide.



I also have a Land Pride rear blade on order, but that will be for another thread.

Same bushings for less money:
HF141130 Cat 2 Adapter Bushing Kit For Quick Hitch

You'll probably need a bushing for the top link too....get one at your local Tractor Supply or hardware store. Figure 3 to 5 bucks.

I had the Pat's Easy Change and I do like them. However, you do have to get off the tractor to hook up the top link. For PTO powered implements, you have to get off anyway to hook up the PTO drive shaft.
Also, older implements (such as my Woods 5000 chipper/shredder and the Woods snow blower I recently sold) aren't QH compatible without modification. That's where the Pat's systems shine.

But, for non-powered implements that are QH compatible, a quick hitch makes easy work of it....especially with something like a rotary cutter (which are the biggest PITA to hook up).

 

[CompactTractorFan]

Thank you for the input everyone!

Yes you need the bushing kit to take up the slack, Northern tool has them for 13.00 a set.

I did see them at Northern Tool. Appears like they are the best deal.

search TBN, there are several threads about the HF hitch and mods to it for improvement.

Will definitely be looking into that more.

Or you can use the cheap bushings in pairs, held on by your linch pin. The expensive ones with a knob are not needed.

If you feel they are necessary, I'd probably do as Bruce said and buy the cheap ones. Then they and the linch pins can be used somewhere else if needed.

I have a set of the stepped bushings, 1 pair came with the Quick Hitch. Fro everything else I use a CAT 1 to Cat 2 adapter bushing then slide a flat washer over the lift pin, then put in the lynch pin or 5/16" bolt then clamp the flat washer to the pin/bolt and tack weld them together. I have too many of the lynch pins break the spring clip and pop out if I'm not lined up correctly when backing into hook up implement.

http://www.tractorsupply.com - countyline cat2 to cat1 lift arm bushing
These bushings are much cheaper and easily taken off one attachment and placed on another. I have them on my box blade and 3pt road grader.
View attachment 456222 View attachment 456225

http://www.tractorsupply.com - countyline cat2 to cat1 top link bushing
I also use a top link bushing with the JD quick hitch I have. It has the same size hook as the lift hooks so I could just use another lift arm bushing but I don't have any problems with the smaller top link bushing.
View attachment 456223 View attachment 456224

I think I will give them a shot first. They have them at my local TSC for relatively cheap.

Go to the Land Pride web site and download their QH manual. They list all the bushings needed; then have your dealer order them. Your new LP implement manual will be specific to that item.

Ron

Did not realize that. Thank you, will keep that in mind.

Haven't seen a post from Compact Tractor Fan in a while.

Yes, I know. Been crazy busy lately...work, college, EMT school, vice president of the fire company...etc.. Really hope to find time to get on here more. I really enjoy talking to you guys.

You'll probably need a bushing for the top link too....get one at your local Tractor Supply or hardware store. Figure 3 to 5 bucks.

I had the Pat's Easy Change and I do like them. However, you do have to get off the tractor to hook up the top link. For PTO powered implements, you have to get off anyway to hook up the PTO drive shaft.
Also, older implements (such as my Woods 5000 chipper/shredder and the Woods snow blower I recently sold) aren't QH compatible without modification. That's where the Pat's systems shine.

But, for non-powered implements that are QH compatible, a quick hitch makes easy work of it....especially with something like a rotary cutter (which are the biggest PITA to hook up).

Pat's Easy Change is a very nice product, but I got a great deal on the Harbor Freight unit. :thumbsup:

 

[aeblank]

this is the QH fix that I did.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...k-hitch-top-hook-clearance-3.html#post3473807

 

[CStone]

The product is fine but do not buy from Pats website because the return policy is a joke, no spacer bar, plus you will pay about $60 more than if you bought from Rural King. Even Amazon is a lot less.

 

[kebo]

To the OP, for attachments that are PTO powered, you might need to get a 4" PTO extender for the PTO shaft when using the QH. It all depends on how much overlap you currently have on the PTO shaft(s) that you will be using with the QH. This is because the QH will locate the attachment about 4 inches further away from the tractor, thus effectively lengthening your PTO shaft by the same amount. Mine was about $30 at TSC, as I recall, that I got after I put the Pat's EC on my three point. Oh yeah, I had to get a longer top link too for the same reason as above. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[Ed Weber]

I don't want to hi-jack the thread but ratheradd to the OP's post.
I'm also a bit new to the "quick hitch' arena and here's what I've learned, please correct me if I'm wrong
1. Not all quick hitches are created equal and may require some modification to either your implement or the hitch itself. Which works with the least issues straight out of the box?
2. Cat 1 refers to the width of the hitch not the size of the lifting hooks which forces you to buy bushing for all your attachments. I suppose it would be silly to make a CAT 1 hitch fit CAT 1 pins, or is that over simplifying it?
3.Obviously you need to allow room for the hitch to fit under the pins (might not fit on some equipment) and allow extra length for PTO shafts. Is there anywhere or any brand that you can read the specs before you purchase.
Thanks in advance for any information you can provide