New to site, Pics of fel I am building

[dadjon]

Hope your job situation works out for you.

I do my welding with a Hobart LX AC/DC stick welder usually 3/32 or 1/8 6013 rod on DC+ for 1/8" steel fab for lightly loaded structures. For structures that see heavy loads I use 7014 or 7018 rod. I have trouble getting good looking welds with 6011.

I have some 308 stainless rod that's supposed to be easy to use on mild steel. I plan to give this a try soon to see if I can get proficient with that rod.

You're fortunate to have a good source for scrap steel. I've searched the salvage yards around here with no luck. The good stuff was sent to China last year when scrap steel was going at $400/ton. Now the dealers won't take scrap since the price has dropped below $50/ton. I've been paying my metal distributor $1.60/lb to get the steel I need for my latest projects.

I am a commercial carpenter and work for a general contractor. So I am usually on the job site from beginning to end. This allows me to be on the job when each subcontractor is on site and I have found that they would rather throw any left over material in the dumpster instead of storing or returning it. Cheaper for them to throw it away, Good for me . I am always dumpster diving during lunch and after work.
I have never welded stainless but am going to give it a try soon. I am making a replacement mower deck for my Gravely (the original is rotted ) from stainless I got from a walk in cooler door we demoed about 2 years ago.

The cylinders came from surplus center Page 49. The pump I am using is capable of 2000 psi but according to vickers web site comes from the factory with a built in bypass set at 1500psi. I guess you change something inside the pump to decrease or increase pressure. Not really sure, I am new to hydraulics but am doing a lot of research and reading.
The pistons on the cylinders i purchased are only 1 1/16".

 

[dadjon]

Just a little update,

Got the welding done on the loader and threw some paint on it. bolted everything together to see what it looked like. Finally fired the engine up for the first time. Videoed it but don't know if i can figure out how to post a link to youtube, I'll try. Still have to get valve and build tank for hydraulics. Have to get some money together first.

YouTube - Craftsman 18hp with home made loader.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Sweet sounding motor there. Nice looking job...Keep up the good work!

 

[Blagadan]

I love the sound that tractor makes!! Nice job overall too, paint looks slick.

Nice to see another dad sharing some "tool time" with his son!

Looking forward to seeing it finished. For sure, lots of counterweight needed, maybe even filling your rear tyres will help add a few lbs too.

 

[David Devuono]

Nice sounding tractor, getting a foot massage with the subwoofer under the computer desk.

 

[dadjon]

Finally got all the hydraulic parts together and got the loader working.
Here's a video link of the first hydraulic test after bleeding the pump.
AT end of video you can hear my son say leak and video stops. The leak ended up being a torn o-ring in the bypass valve in the pump. I had rebuilt this pump and must have pinched the o-ring when putting it back together. Took us about 10 minutes to replace and everything is good. I am surprised at how much power it has. I do not have any counter weight on the rear yet but plan on putting about 250# on. As it sits now we lifted about 450# with me sitting on the seat (I weigh 307#) .Then we tried 500# and the back wheels came off the ground. 500# of damp top soil filled the bucket flush with the top of the bucket.
John and sons.

 

[dadjon]

Sorry link did not work try again.

YouTube - 1st craftsman hydraulic system check 001

 

[rcrcomputing]

Way cool!

 

[David Devuono]

Great job. One of my problems is that I get too excited to get the thing working and don't spend so much time on the details. While I don't know the correct way to set up the control valves, I found when making my loader that it made more sence to raise the lever to lift the loader arms and lower the leaver to lower the loader arms (opposite to what you have). My bucket dump is as how yours is set up, lift to dump and down to curl back. I did not hear a clunk when you dumped the bucket so I am wondering if the cylinders are limiting the travel. I welded in some metal stops so the cylinders don't bottom out and this really helps to remove sticky dirt as the bucket comes to an abrupt stop. Were you able to fill the bucket by driving it into the material, or did you use a shovel to fill the bucket? I have no experience with a 2WD loader thus the question.
thanks

 

[dadjon]

David,

I also have stops welded for the dump cylinders, the bucket does clunk pretty hard , I was just being easy with it because it was the first time I raised the arms and dumped the bucket. I didn't trust a few of my measurements and was concerned about clearance between the cylinder fittings and exhaust stacks. I filled the bucket by driving into the ground, the dirt was top soil where I plant potatoes. The ground was tilled last October so the dirt was soft but it still shocked me. Never expected it to dig and fill the bucket. Another thing, this was all done with no counter weight. When I first started to dig, the bucket went in a few inches and then the wheels started to spin. so both of my sons stood on the back (about 300# total) and that's how we filled the bucket. Weight on the back makes a huge difference. I will post another video of the tractor in action as soon as I get some wheel weights and Ag tires. It has turf tires on it now and as soon as they break traction they load up with dirt and turn into slicks.

John.