New to TractorByNet...help pls

[paulsharvey]

It also could be air in the hydralic system. I know it should simply push it out, and back to the tank, but my old Kubota would need "bled". Now, I know about the safety warns, but I slightly loosened the connector block, and just bumped the starter; didn't start it; let the air out and retighten. Don't know if that could be your issue or not. I would Not crack the line while the machine is running. hydralic under pressure can really do you some damage.

It also wasn't the healthiest hydro system... so maybe that was part of it. But once bled, it worked fine.

 

[fixer4u]

Hello all. Thanks for all the responses. The leak was at the PTO engagement lever shaft. A new "O" ring and good to go. It was leaking bad enough that over about 15 hours, it would loose about 1/4 cup of oil. Never had a need to use the 3 pt. The tractor was purchased to primarily remove snow in the winter as it has a loader, cab and heater. 3 hours of blowing snow with a walk behind was not fun. But i digress. The issue has likely been resolve. Figured it had to be sucking air somewhere. Suspected "O" ring in pump that seals the inlet pipe where it enters the pump. Started tractor and dribbled oil around the port. If "O" ring was bad, it would suck the oil in. Not the case, all good. Tried it again as entrapped air would have dissipated out of the oil overnight. Worked so so for a bit but still wouldn't pick up 700 lbs. Oil now foamy and arms spongy. Fed up parked the tractor and looked down on the right side and saw wet on the side of the case. Wiped it with my hand and its diff oil. What the ****. To make this story shorter, I believe the issue was created when the tractor was built. It just took this long for it to appear. When the tin around the lower part of the steering column was in stalled, the installer put a screw in, it appears that the screw was put through the inlet pipe. That's what it looks like as the hole in the pipe was directly behind the screw. The wall of the pipe is fairly heavy, and was not worn through, it was a direct hole. Not drilled as is was not a concentric hole. Non the less, hole has been plugged and waiting for material to cure before testing. In the picture you can see the hole, and in the lower portion of the picture you can see where the screw goes to hold the tin together, it has just been moved to allow access to the pipe. Never figured something like that.

 

[Mike1955]

Hello All. I am new to this forum and I'm needing some help. I'm at a loss. I'm a Millwright and know hydraulics, but this one is stumping me. I am trying to figure my 3 pt hitch on my Ford 335. I have resolved a leak and now need to find out why it is still not working properly. Oil level is good, got it going up and down with neighbor standing on it. Put a heavier load on it and wouldn't lift. Leaving the Draft control in the lower position, so that I have Position Control of the arms, as per owners manual. Checked oil and it was real foamy. Understandable as had to bleed air out after dealing with low oil and a leak. Waited until the air dissipated out of the oil, and now it will eventually move up, no load and is spongy, which to me, still means air in the system. Oil is not foamy at this point. It's a gear pump on the rear left side of the engine with inlet filter mounted at the pump. Filter is tight and fairly new, don't believe that it is sucking air past gasket. I'm open to all suggestions and please ask me any question to this issue and I will answer it to the best of my ability and knowledge, (in case I missed something important), as I have owned the tractor for 6 years (never owned one before), but have only recently started to use the 3 pt due to a great neighbor that has a smaller HP Kubota but has some CAT1 attachments that have been offered for mutual benefit due to my 335's HP. It would be nice to get it operational, so that I can offer some payback for my neighbors generosity. Thank you in advance to all whom offer suggestions and what direction to take with this.

In all sencerity I think you did something to it while working on the leak. It happened before

 

[Harry in Ky]

In all sencerity I think you did something to it while working on the leak. It happened before

You're truly dedicated to that theory, aren't you?

 

[Mike1955]

You're truly dedicated to that theory, aren't you?

Harry my apologies if it is offensive. It’s just that I have done it a time or two. Keep me informed

 

[Harry in Ky]

Hey, I don't see anything offensive. Hell, we all get things wrong often enough while attempting to get things right. That's nothing new, granted. I base my opinions on facts as presented. Far too often here we don't get all the facts, just bits and pieces of them. Then people offer comments and suggestions that may or may not apply.

In this case the facts presented really didn't suggest to me that the problem would have much to do with whatever work he had previously done. The hole pictured in his last photo doesn't seem like anything I could relate to what he had been working on, but it would certainly affect pump operation as he described it.

 

[Mike1955]

I think the presence of air is the problem. And that could be something not tightened properly or a seal damaged or dirt allowing air to the system. In other words just do it over and see. What do you think? It was fine before the leak.

 

[Harry in Ky]

What do I think? I think air gets into a system because the pump pulls it in. That's most always because of an issue between the oil reservoir and the pump. Whether caused by a screen, a joint, a filter, a hose or tube, or some other connection. It's hard to get air into a system from a loose fitting or misdirected hose or line anywhere on the pressure side of things. Nothing mentioned in any of the earlier posts suggested to me that anything suction related was tampered with during any recent repairs. My logic says that whatever he did (even though all that wasn't fully explained) probably was not a contributing factor.

 

[Mike1955]

What do I think? I think air gets into a system because the pump pulls it in. That's most always because of an issue between the oil reservoir and the pump. Whether caused by a screen, a joint, a filter, a hose or tube, or some other connection. It's hard to get air into a system from a loose fitting or misdirected hose or line anywhere on the pressure side of things. Nothing mentioned in any of the earlier posts suggested to me that anything suction related was tampered with during any recent repairs. My logic says that whatever he did (even though all that wasn't fully explained) probably was not a contributing factor.

Harry one thing about this forum is we don’t always hear the full story, and more importantly the end of the story. I had a vintage ford last year that would not hold prime. I been around the horn long enough to know exactly what the problem was. So I ordered a pump seal and a new wobble shaft cause it showed wear. 100 percent fixed. But I wondered if I could have took jb weld and put it in the wear marks. Then put it in a drill and sanded it smooth And saved the 50 buck wobble shaft cost. I’ll never know, I just didn’t think in time. Harry, thanks for the conversation

 

[Williy]

With a hole like that he could seal it with a piece of inner tube
and a hose clamp

willy