new truck!!! needs trailer wiring

[IrTxRx]

I just brought a brand new truck!!! Well, new to me anyway... 1994 F350 crew cab with only a 100K miles. My old truck had over 300K and just didn't pull very well anymore.

Problem - my "new" truck does not have a towing package and I've got to haul some stuff in a couple of weeks. How hard is it to wire for trailer brakes and lights???

What do I need to buy and which big box store will have it (no TSC close, but I can get to one).

So i don't have to re-destroy the wheel are there any little tricks or hang-up I should look for.

As always,
Thanks

 

[jwstewar]

Go to something like an Advance/AutoZone/Napa/Wal-Mart they will have a module that will plug in to the lights on the at the back of the truck. This will give you immediately your stop/tail/turn signal lights. You will then need to run wires from the front of the truck to the rear for brakes and a hot wire for recharging the battery on the trailer if so equipped. Those plug in modules are usually only 10 - 15. Sure makes wiring a lot faster, simpler, and usually more reliable as you don't have to worry about making it water tight. These places also usually have brake controllers there as well, ableit usually not a brand-name like Tekonsha, but sometimes they do have a DrawTite or Reese controllers.

 

[BarryinMN]

etrailer.com will ship right to your place. Saves a special trip to town & losing 1/2 day or more.

 

[IrTxRx]

Ok, went to the local parts store at lunch and they had flat 4-prong for lights. Directions say no cutting splicing wiring and any idot can do it in 5 minutes. Shouldn't take me more than a copule hours /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

After talking to the store attendent, it sounds like doing the wiring for the brakes is beyond my skills. I'll have to get some help for that one

I'll check out the e.trailer site and see what they have too

Thanks

I'll let everyone know how the trailer light kit goes

 

[RobertN]

This link is VERY handy www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm

Go to Napa, Checkers, or Autozone. Or, better yet, go to a trailer sales/repair place.

You might also check with Ford; they might have had an add-on harness.

For my old '89 F250, I bought the 7-wire adapter that was mentioned previously. It had the 7-wire receptacl. Out of that, came a short harness with the 4-wire flat connector. It also had three other wires coming out of it; one for brakes, one for 12v, and one for back-up lights.

The 4-wire was an easy connection.

For backup lights, I intersected one of the wires going up to the back-up lights.

For 12v, I used a Ford style starter selenoid, mounted next to the battery. One wire went from the battery to one pole of the selenoid, with a 20A circuit breaker in line. From the other side of the soleniod, I ran a wire to the back of the truck(10 gauge) and hooked it to the 7-wire trailer receptacle. Another wire was run from the ignition to the selenoid activation terminal. This way, my battery in the camper charged when the truck was running, but was isolated when the ignition was off. That way I never ran down the truck starting battery...

The brakes had a bit more to them. Most controller have only four wires. One wire ran from the controller, which mounted under the dash, out to the back of the truck and is connected to the 7-wire receptacle. A second wire was connected to the wire that comes off the break switch, under the dash. The power line to the controller ran direct to the battery, with a breaker placed in line near the battery. The ground wire connected to chassis/body ground.

I like the 7-wire receptacle. I can connect anything to my truck(my current Dodge has the 7-wire). I had my old camper set up to connect to it. My horse trailer had backup lights, and a charge line running to the trailer break "break-away" battery.

It is easier to have all bases covered, and then adapt out to 4-wire flat, 4-wire round, or 6-wire round, than it is to try and adapt up from one of those.