I didn't have much luck last night posting, so I thought I would try again. I bought a full set of R-1 tires and wheels for my 4310. Front tires are 7-16 the rear tires are 12.4-24 and are loaded with CaCl. The tires have about 80-100 hrs on them and are about 6 years old. My intension is to give my tractor some more versatility and I want to switch back to my turf tires in the summer to use on my lawn. Ok now the problem and questions part. I mounted the rear tires at position #7 which gives me one more adjustment I can make to the width, I am happy with them where they are now, tractor is very stable. The front tires I mounted as wide as I could. I did not check for turning clearance until I was out in the snow trying them out. I made a hard right turn and I hit the loader quick coupler with the bar on the tire. I didn't break any fittings just bent the bracket. So my first question is did I miss something? putting the tires at the narrow setting would put the tires into the frame and QC's when I turn (I will verify this tomorrow) The tires are one of the listed tires for my tractor. Next questions are about filled tires,and tire pressure. Front tires I have at 15 psi started at 25,the bars were sitting flat on the floor. To much, not enough ? To check the air pressure on the rear tires I put the valve at the top, cleared the valve (learned here), and had 20 psi. The bars were not sitting flat on the concrete so I went down to 10 psi and stopped. the bars were still not flat but closer. Next tire, valve at the top, clear valve, all fluid, two more times same thing, stopped. So now I am wondering one tire too full or one tire not full enough and how to equalize the tires out. Last one, after looking at the tires a lot closer, I found a nick in the rt rear about 1/8'' with fluid very slightly leaking out. I had read here that you just plug it like a normal tire? And how do you delete a post?
Tires New-Used tractor tires and problems
- Thread starter Hookblock
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Soundguy
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Fill yer tires to the air pressure in your manual or printed on the tire.. the liquid ballast don't matter.
If ya need a bit more traction.. you can underinflate a bit..
soundguy
If ya need a bit more traction.. you can underinflate a bit..
soundguy
crashz
Veteran Member
It is my understanding that front tires should be at the narrow settings especially when doing loader work. It seems a though the front wheel bearings may give you trouble if eccentrically loaded like that. Plus having them wide like that doesn't help stability since the front axle oscillates anyway.
Well, I solved the front tire issue.(operator error) When I put them at the narrow setting it just rubbed on the hoses, missed the fittings. With the fluid in the tires being low I was concerned about the wheel rusting.
Villengineer
Gold Member
If the last picture is the current condition, I would still be concerned. I don't think that hose will last too long if you do much tight turning. Personally, I would get some 45deg or even 90deg fittings to put between the QDs and the hoses. That should help get aimed up and away from the tires.
The bars aren't supposed to be flat on the concrete. If they are, the tire is very underinflated. This is also why roading tractors with ag tires a lot weres them rapidly in the center, because that is the really the only place they contact the hard serfuce. Once your on dirt, your fine.
Thanks for the info, The last pictures are the before I moved the tires to the narrow setting. I'll get some after pictures. I like the fitting idea, I'll look into that. I also put the recommended pressure back in the tires. The tires were wearing in the middle, with not much wear on the outside edge. So I thought they were over inflated.
pat32rf
Veteran Member
When i got my 4300 (with R4's) it rode like it had steel wheels. I would bounce to the point that the seat switch kept activating. I checked the pressure and found that they were inflated to the numbers on the sidewall. Now I run the rears at about 10-15psi, the fronts a bit more. If you are doing low speed yard work on frozen surfaces I would let my pressures down as low as I could, a much softer ride and a lot better traction. They aren't like a car tire, they won't overheat from low pressure and high speed running. Especially in the snow....
Measure the diameter of the tires with full pressure then again with the lower pressure, you might find quite a difference. Watch for front sidewall squeezing when you have the loader full of whatever you carry the most (snow and ice?). As long as your fronts don't deform too much then you should be OK until spring.
If you narrow your front wheelbase the tires won't reach as far back in a sharp turn and may clear the hoses. You can watch them as you turn to see when they are going to hit the frame.
Those tires do look big to me.....Ags are meant for soft ground, R'4s for loader, road and yard work. You will have to compromise somewhere, probably in a lower pressure, to make them work.
Measure the diameter of the tires with full pressure then again with the lower pressure, you might find quite a difference. Watch for front sidewall squeezing when you have the loader full of whatever you carry the most (snow and ice?). As long as your fronts don't deform too much then you should be OK until spring.
If you narrow your front wheelbase the tires won't reach as far back in a sharp turn and may clear the hoses. You can watch them as you turn to see when they are going to hit the frame.
Those tires do look big to me.....Ags are meant for soft ground, R'4s for loader, road and yard work. You will have to compromise somewhere, probably in a lower pressure, to make them work.