My 7024 rods are about 35 years old and open to the air in the soggy pacific northwest. 7014 always restrikes instantly, 7024 many times won't. 60ll sticks to everything it touches until it warms up, either by dragging and sparking, or heating. If I were younger I'd buy a better welder with higher OCV, but now it doesn't matter to me. Heating the rod tip to restart is a simple fix. I'm probably about done building much anyway.
New Way To Restart A Rod?
- Thread starter bigdeano
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kcender
Platinum Member
One method I have used to restart 7018 is to have a piece of wood nearby and stick the hot rod tip in it directly after breaking the arc.It helps to peel back the flux and expose the rod tip.Give it a try,not recommended for critical work.
Chilly807
Elite Member
Now THAT I'm gonna try.. thanks for the tip neighbour! The AC/DC I have was old when "hot start" was invented, unless I win the lottery I don't see myself buying anything with that feature anytime soon.
Besides, what's a little bit of wood smoke gonna harm when you're welding? Any preference for hard wood or soft?
Sean
flatheadford
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How old is your machine. I have a Miller 330 that was built in the 1950's that has a start circuit that can be adjusted from 0 to 100% of the amperage range that is selected.
Arc weld
Veteran Member
That sounds like a high frequency for TIG which is different than hot start. With a decent DC machine, I've never had trouble striking an arc. I think a lot beginners tend to burn too cold.
flatheadford
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Has nothing to do with HF, which has it's own circuit and adjustments.
Say you are on the 50-225 amp range, you could set the main amperage control to 50% (about 112 amps), and if you set the start adjustment control to 60%, it would start at 135 amps.
Main amp control in upper center of front panel, start adjustment control upper right.
Cami
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- Don't have one of my own! I work on other people's machines.
For the 7018 and the "flux cup" that forms, just giving the tip a smart smack on anything hard will break it off.
When you have the flux broken off for a short distance from the tip, starting on that bare rod is a pain. For that I'll use a run-on plate and start the rod by dragging it along with a very steep angle(nearly parallel to the work) until the arc starts and stabilizes....or do it on a piece of scrap and then strike the arc normally on the work.
When you have the flux broken off for a short distance from the tip, starting on that bare rod is a pain. For that I'll use a run-on plate and start the rod by dragging it along with a very steep angle(nearly parallel to the work) until the arc starts and stabilizes....or do it on a piece of scrap and then strike the arc normally on the work.
Arc weld
Veteran Member
Miller 330 A/BP's were made till at least 1988. It does have a starting amps adjustment but was also a top of line machine in its day. I don't know if they made them back in 50's but not many people will want a machine that needs a 100 amp breaker.
Old Lincoln vertical generators (bullets) had an optional foot pedal to control amperage when stick welding. I think these were referred to as aircraft units.
Old Lincoln vertical generators (bullets) had an optional foot pedal to control amperage when stick welding. I think these were referred to as aircraft units.