New YM1700 has questions

SailorBob · Mar 9, 2005

I know this is probably a stupid post but, I am a new tractor owner. I have had the tractor for about 3 months and so far I love it. I cannot seem to find the proper coolant mixture. I noticed some posts regarding overheating due to improper coolant mixture. I decided to perform routine preventative maintenance and discovered the temp bulb burned out. I replaced the bulb and the very next time I used the tractor the temp light came on after about 5 minutes at idle speed. I do not believe the engine was hot since I could hold my hand on the side of the block. Out of an abundance of caution I shut down the engine and checked the coolant and it was fine. The water was hot to the touch but no where near boiling. I suspect the temp sensor may be bad. I have ordered a temp gauge kit for it just to give me a warm fuzzy about it. Has anyone experience this? I assumed the standard 50/50 mixture. I wish that I had found this site before purchasing my tractor. Great site by the way.

I also bought the Yanmar Service manual from Hoye tractor on CD and it is actually the YM195 so assume that is the US equivalent . However, the manual contains everything you could ever want to know except that. At least I can't find it.

Soundguy · Mar 9, 2005

This is a thermosyphon engine.. try a 30/70 mix of collant and water instead.

While you are waiting.. grab your ohm meter, cooking thermometer, pot of water and a stove and see when that bulb/sender pops.

Course.. imp[roper coolant mix can inhibit proper flow in the thermosypjon eng. I hope yours is just a bad sender..

Soundguy

Whiskey · Mar 9, 2005

SailorBob:

Welcome to the site, and the info you loking for is to be found somewhere here in a search.....don't hold me to it but I think it's 70/30

Whiskey · Mar 9, 2005

good thing soundguy bet me to it....I was backward...story of my life /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

SailorBob · Mar 9, 2005

Thanks guys for the information.

Soundguy,
I am confused about the cooling system. The service manual that i bought shows a water pump. It does appear to me to have a water pump. I know that I am new to tractors and diesel engines and you are probably right. There is a fan pulley running off the fan belt and it does appear to be a water pump to me as well. I am certainly no mechanic by any means.

I will try your suggestion. I have topped of the coolant recovery tank a couple of time with pure coolant . Perhaps that has change the mixture too much.

Tractors4u · Mar 9, 2005

( The service manual that i bought shows a water pump. )

Didn't you say you bought a YM195 service manual?

The 1700 does not have a water pump. Look at your engine and radiator. There should be 2 hoses. One at the top of the radiator and one at the bottom. What are they connected to? Is there are water pump between the hoses and the engine? I have heard of people putting YM2000 water pumps on Ym1700's. Could be. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

SailorBob · Mar 9, 2005

Brent,

Yes. I ordered the a YM1700 service manual from Hoye Tractor. What I recieved was a YM195 manual. Just about everything about my tractor does appear to be the same as the YM195. The only differnce I have discovered are I have a ROP and the manual shows a 8 speed transmission but, mine has a 6 speed. Also it has a multiple speed PTO. I am sure it must be a grey market tractor.

As for the hoses I am not sure about that. I know that there is a hose at the top between the top of the radiator and the to the inlet on the top engine. I am work right now and will have to wait until I get home tonight to look at it. You guys are probably right. I may have too much coolant in it. I have used it about 25 hours and have had no problems at all.

It starts up fine and runs great. I have never seen any signs of it overheating. I did notice that I waited about 2 hours and switched the ignition switch on and the temp light was still on. The engine was surely cold. The next morning I switch it on (not cranking it) and the light was off. That makes me think the sensor is faulty.

ducksjunk · Mar 10, 2005

I don't know about the 1700, but my YM195D has a water pump. That is what that manual will show.
Richard.

Soundguy · Mar 10, 2005

The grey units smaller than the 2000 were thermosyphon.. but like brent said.. a 1700 can take a 2000 water pump.

Also..to the original poster.. check that tranny shift pattern again.. you should have 4 gears.. and a range selector on the right side... not a 6 speed.

The 195/240 is a similar us model to the 1700. there are some significant differences.. but its a good close match for exploded diagrams.. etc. I purchased the same manual from len schafer years ago.

Soundguy

SailorBob · Mar 10, 2005

appreciate your help. I suppose that it does not really matter as long as it is cooling properly. I looked at the tractor again last night and I will attempt to describe the setup. The top radiator hose attaches to an inlet at the top of the engine not to what I perceived as the water pump and the bottom radiator hose is attached to the bott tom of the block. The fan belt go around a pulley with a shaft running into the device that I thought was the water pump.

I have decided to just drain the cooling system and refill it with the 30/70 mix recommend. Hopefully,. I will have the temp gage by the weekend so that I can install it as well. If I don't I may try the hot water with the ohm meter test. Then I will know for sure if there is a cooling problem. I don't want to take a chance on damaging the engine.

If it is not too much trouble I have another question regarding the engine oil. I changed the oil and filter last weekend as well I used Shell Rotella 15W40 oil. A friend of mine with a tractor recommended that oil. I had always heard that diesel engines need 40 weight oil. I know these small engines are probably different from larger engines. I know that most sailboats with diesel engines use 40 W oil. The temperature range here is between 50 - 70 degrees here this time of year. I have only run it about 30 minutes since changing the oil.

I have so much to learn about tractors and scanning back through this forum has been very interesting. If I become a pest please let me know.

Thanks,

Bob

fig · Mar 10, 2005

Bob,

I am not sure what 70/30 water/coolant mixture will protect your tractor DOWN to, but you might want to make sure that your night time temps don't exceed. Being in Mobile, I doubt they will, but just check. Our night time temps are still down in the 20's here in NC. Just my two cents.

Newton

thegreatrandini · Mar 10, 2005

Here in Kansas I run 10w40 rotella 9 months out of the year. I use rotella 30w July to September.....Also don't let your engine freeze.......I could not use 30/70 mixture here....but my 2210 has a water pump..

Soundguy · Mar 10, 2005

Sailor bob.. I use 15w40 in all my diesels.. no problems.

Also.. the others bring up a good point. You may have to slightly adjust your af mix if you do have low low temps. Course this should also offset some heating problems if you are running the tractor in sub-zero weather /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Soundguy

SailorBob · Mar 10, 2005

Soundguy,

That is good news about the oil. As for the freezing issue we don't have too much of the really cold weather here and spring has already sprung here.

If you don't mind one more question about cooling what causes the coolant to circulate without a water pump? I have ran the tractor pretty hard for up to 2 hours at a time with the brush cutter attachment. I seem to wear out log before the tractor gets tired. It is amazing to me how powerful this little tractor is. It just grinds up the brush like it is nothing.

Thanks to everyone that responded.

gbirky · Mar 11, 2005

Cooling systems without a water pump rely on the difference in density between hot and cold water to create circulation by natural convection. Just like air, as water gets hot it becomes less dense and will rise. So inside the engine's water jacket, the coolant is heated and tries to rise, being replaced with cooler water from the bottom of the radiator. The hot water moves into the top of the radiator and is cooled there, becoming more dense and tending to sink to the bottom of the radiator. This is called the "thermosypon" effect.

Higher concentrations of anti-freeze impede the ability of the coolant to circulate. I live in western MD where temperatures drop down to the single digits in the winter, and I still use only 25% antifreeze, 75% distilled water in my YM1110D which doesn't have a water pump. I have gone through 3 winters without freezing the block. If I were you, I would use the 25% anti-freeze/75% distilled water solution and not worry about freezing. It is also important that the cooling system be very clean.

You should start by using a cooling system flush product to flush all the gunk out of the radiator and block. Use a hose to back-flush the radiator and the engine block. You might want to remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop for cleaning and pressure testing. Then fill with the 25/75 mixture. You should have no overheating problems after all this.

SailorBob · Mar 11, 2005

That was a great explanation and it makes sense to me. I will try your suggestions. My coolant looks awfully rich so I suspect that it probably part of my problem.

I will post another message letting anyone interested know the final outcome. I have been reading back through the forum and notice that many never report the resolution of their issues.

fig · Mar 11, 2005

Greg,

Maybe I need to get another "antifreeze checker". During the warmer months; I drain the system, flush the system, and replace with the same mixture. I checked it last year before the cold nights set in, but the "checker" I have said it would only protect to the mid to upper 30's, so I drained some of the fluid out and put more antifreeze in. My 1700 is in the barn but it is not heated and I was more worried about cracking a block. Do you check yours before winter? If you did check; what was it good for with the 25/75 mix?

Soundguy · Mar 13, 2005

( but the "checker" I have said it would only protect to the mid to upper 30's )

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Mid 30's isn't even freezing... nor would upper 30's.

If you had a 25% mix of AF.. it should lower your freezing temp lower than 32'. etc

Soundguy

normde2001 · Mar 13, 2005

"Do you check yours before winter? If you did check; what was it good for with the 25/75 mix?"

According to the chart on the Discount Autoparts antifreeze jug a 25/75 mix protects to +10 degrees.

fig · Mar 13, 2005

Soundguy,

I figured it would too, but..... There have been plenty of nights in the 10's and 20's and didn't want to take a chance. I will get a new "checker" before next winter.