Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments

   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments #121  
I started tractoring as a total newbie 12 years ago and now I have about 1400 hours of self taught experience. I live on 15 hilly acres and I do trail maintenance and tractor work on miles of trails and roads in my community. I’ve done every kind of job imaginable with a front end loader, front forks, flail mower, box scraper, back-hoe and post hole digger on my property. I can’t imagine life around here without this tractor. I have a 3016 Mahindra shuttle, which I absolutely love. I especially like the flat floor for comfort.

I have a top and tilt setup in the back, which I can’t even imagine not having. You will appreciate all the ways to angle your box scraper.

I never filled my tires with anything but air and have never felt the need for liquids.

At times I wish I had more grunt for horse power, but I am more frequently quite happy my rig isn’t any larger because access to tight spaces would be more limited.

Some advice I was given early on said that all tractors can accomplish pretty much the same work. Smaller ones just can’t do work as fast. Bigger ones don’t fit into small spaces.

Seems to me for all the road work you intend to do, a blade would be a handy tool. I don’t have one, but there have been times I wish I did.

My advice. Don’t sweat the initial investment. You will find so many jobs for your tractor you will want to be using it all the time. Buy good equipment.

It all sounds good to me. Everything about tractors and earth moving depend on the type of ground and growth.

For example, our land is too rocky for a box blade to be much good. It keeps rolling up over rocks. But even a tractor with a FEL needs to have something for weight back there. Lacking a backhoe, a similarly heavy 6 way adjustable rear blade is a very handy tool summer and winter. A set of trailing wheels makes it even better.
It sounds like you get that same capability with a box blade using your top and tilt hydraulics. My guess is that means you have more dirt than rocks to play with. It comes back to the type of ground you have.

Over a few years I ended up buying several rear blades - each heavier and more rigid than the one before - before deciding that what was really needed was a heavy tall blade that wasn't so wide but with adjustable tilt and offset as well as angle. Of course it cost LOTS more than a simple back blade. And works that much better. I think I got both back blades from Woods and Rhino.

Having those same adjustments and the ability to change them easily is exactly why a bulldozer works best with a 6 or 8 way hydraulic blade.

I agree & that's well said about filling the tires. I do the same; just air.

rScotty
 
   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments #122  
Or maybe approximately how many hours each piece, or all, of the dozer work took?

What he did on his land may not translate well to yours.
For most dozer or TLB work small operators will be willing to take a look and give an estimate. You should treat it as an estimate; not a quote. Let him know upfront that you are willing to pay for his time to go look it over and give you that estimate.

Include everything and prioritize. Having an old two track "road" is a huge benefit. So improving that road is a priority & needs some wider spots for turnouts. Some leveled and camping spots, an area for a potential home site or garden, and finally see if a wet spot can be made into a small pond, although that may be excavator/backhoe rather than bulldozer work. Any money left over you can spend for graveling the camping spots & road.

I'd tend to let him decide how much of that he can or can't do. Does 3 to 5 days sound about right or too long?

Don't worry that he gets to have all the fun. If he will do that much, there will still be plenty of work for you and the tractor to do.
rScotty
 
   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments #123  
I’ll add something else to think about, and you probably have already. Are you going to build a house or cabin there sone day? Retire there?
 
   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments
  • Thread Starter
#124  
Almost certainly not.

We will likely bring a couple containers up there too make some rough shelters for family to stay in. Will do a septic for sure, but that would be about it.
No power is available within a reasonable distance from the site.
 
   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments
  • Thread Starter
#125  
Thanks to everyone again on this thread. I ended up getting the 52hp LS tractor with the larger (3100 series backhoe). We are going to start the initial heavy work with a hired-out dozer this month.
Based on the advice here, I also got a tiltable Grading blade (from a very generous cousin of mine who had one on his farm.) It is an older Danuser 72" with the tilt function. I also found a guy selling a Bradco Rock bucket and bought that this last week.
Back on Page 7 of this thread, we were talking about the rock bucket and rScotty mentioned getting some hooks added to it so I can use chains on the bucket. I had assumed that he was referring to the rock bucket, but now I am thinking that he may have been meaning the regular loader bucket.
Can anyone shed some light on where I should be adding hooks? Which bucket are they most useful on, and where to position them? Just at the top of the bucket I assume? and, if that is the case, how do you use the chains to secure something to the bucket?



And, I thought I had posted this to this thread some time ago, but it must have been to a backhoe specific thread;
Someone mentioned quite a few pages back (the guy with the XR LS tractor) that the backhoes for LS and Kioti were both made by the same company. I've confirmed that is true. The larger 3100 series hoe that I have is the same unit as a 2485 hoe from Kioti. The bucket and thumbs, etc are all interchangeable. I believe that the smaller units are also the same.

I actually bought a 12" bucket and a thumb from my local Kioti dealer.
 
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   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments #126  
Can anyone shed some light on where I should be adding hooks? Which bucket are they most useful on, and where to position them? Just at the top of the bucket I assume? and, if that is the case, how do you use the chains to secure something to the bucket?
I have two hooks on my buckets and my fork frame. They are located about 4-5" in from the side edge of the bucket/frame. I would put hooks on all the buckets/frames.

To hold a rock in a bucket, start the chain in the hook, go around the bucket, bring it back to the hook. As said, I use two hooks and cross the chains over the object I intend to hold.
 
   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments #127  
I went with 4 across the top of my bucket. One in each corner, and one each at the point the loader frame meets the bucket.

20170604_112312.jpg
 
   / Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments #128  
Thanks to everyone again on this thread. I ended up getting the 52hp LS tractor with the larger (3100 series backhoe). We are going to start the initial heavy work with a hired-out dozer this month.
Based on the advice here, I also got a tiltable Grading blade (from a very generous cousin of mine who had one on his farm.) It is an older Danuser 72" with the tilt function. I also found a guy selling a Bradco Rock bucket and bought that this last week.
Back on Page 7 of this thread, we were talking about the rock bucket and rScotty mentioned getting some hooks added to it so I can use chains on the bucket. I had assumed that he was referring to the rock bucket, but now I am thinking that he may have been meaning the regular loader bucket.
Can anyone shed some light on where I should be adding hooks? Which bucket are they most useful on, and where to position them? Just at the top of the bucket I assume? and, if that is the case, how do you use the chains to secure something to the bucket?



And, I thought I had posted this to this thread some time ago, but it must have been to a backhoe specific thread;
Someone mentioned quite a few pages back (the guy with the XR LS tractor) that the backhoes for LS and Kioti were both made by the same company. I've confirmed that is true. The larger 3100 series hoe that I have is the same unit as a 2485 hoe from Kioti. The bucket and thumbs, etc are all interchangeable. I believe that the smaller units are also the same.

I actually bought a 12" bucket and a thumb from my local Kioti dealer.
Sounds like you are getting all equipped. Nice tractor and all the right attachments. Used attachments are a great place to save money and learn about mechanical things without much downside.

Have you posted some pictures? I've never seen a Danhouser back blade myself, but it sounds good. Usually grading blades are built to stronger & heavier specifications in the blade and pivots as they add functions that tend to put more stress stress out to the ends of the blade. These additional functions are things like tilt, offset, end plates, and gauge wheels.
I like the blade tilt and end plates and use both a lot. Our back blade will also offset but I don't use it that way because it throws the tractor sideways. That probably means that I bought too big a blade for the tractor. I don't have guage wheels on the blade, some day maybe.

Chain hooks are handy on all buckets, but a necessity on regular loader buckets. On the rock bucket you don't use chain so much & when you need to it will just hook onto the back of the bucket.

On your regular bucket I like to put a hook about a foot in from each end. Sometimes I add one in the middle, too. Unless your bucket already has a strongly reinforced top edge - most don't - you will want to add a backing plate inside the bucket under the lip under each chain hook.
I prefer a 5/16" grab (not slip) type chain hook that is welded onto a plate that is then bolted to the top of the bucket. The grab hook will not let a chain run freely through the hook. The slot is sized so that you slide a link of the chain into it and it stays there. 5/16" grab size will also grab 1/4" chain.

Of course you can simply weld a 5/16 or 3/8 grab hook to the top of the lip of the bucket. Depending on your skills that can look great or ugly. Unless you also have a backing plate the bucket will tend to bend a bit there. No biggie, I used to do it that way. It works fine. I'm older and more likely to spend time - and money - being a bit of a craftsman these days. But welding works.

With a bolted chain hook welded to a plate, I can clamp and drill and bolt right through the chain hook plate, bucket, and backing plate with a couple of high tensile half inch bolts. There is someone right here on TBN who sells that exact setup. I forget his name; maybe someone will chime in.

For chain....there are lots of options. Go to: McMaster-Carr and look around.
Get some ideas and then lets talk. You will use your chain far more than you ever thought....
luck,
rScotty
 
 
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