Newbie doesn't know how to drive !

[firemanpat2910]

If you have only had it a week? Is it possible that it sat on the sellers lot for a while, clutch got stuck, they freed it up, and didnt get the clutch dried and oil free? Try searching "Stuck Clutch" and doing the second part of the fixes listed. Usualy brake clean or simmular remidy.
What do you guys think? Am I way out in left field or is this plausable?

 

[john_bud]

Firemanpat2910,

Could be. Hard to say when a shade tree mechanic is at work. Some are truely "shady" if you get my point!

I wonder if the tractor is making any smells when the slipping is occuring? Smell like hot brake shoes is the clutch face burning and a smell like oil burning could be what you (pat) were talking about.

Since splitting the tractor loader hoe is going to be a 12-16 hour job for a professional and the cost of parts may be $500-1000, I would be speaking to the seller. Estimate for repair is $1400 to $2200. That's getting big enough to put a dent into the beer fund. My gut feel is that this particular machine is about ready to sit and not move under it's own power.

 

[rissacher]

Well, I've adjusted the pedal without much difference. Some folks have reccomended adjusting the clutch itself, but I don't know if that's possible in this model since I don't have the parts or service manuals. Anybody know?

If I do have to replace the clutch, any more opinions on how much cost in parts and how much time/cost for a pro to do it? I think a clutch replacement might be a little above my level at this point (but again, I don't have the service manual yet). The one above is a bit scary, especially since I only bought the thing for $5k.

I don't think I'll get anything out of the seller. I talked to him and got the "oh... yup, sounds like the clutch... no big deal though".

No smells or noises when the thing is slipping though. Almost feels like it is supposed to be doing it.

 

[john_bud]

I looked at part costs for the 545. I think you may have a 70's machine, the 80's machines don't list clutch parts. Maybe a torque converter on them?

For a 545 or 545A the clutch disk, pressure plate and both bearings will run between 350 and 700 depending on quality you want. Feramic is the most expensive but will last forever.

The estimate on labor for at pro a $75 and hour is conservative. You can do it yourself if you have a concrete pad and air tools {3/4 drive would be nice as some bolts are probably rusted stuck). You will need lots of jack stands, a cherry picker, rolling jacks and tools for the larger bolts. Go to a GM dealer and buy thier heat pipe penetrant. Best stuff out there by far. about 10 a can. Squirt every bolt and nut you can find once a day for a couple weeks. Order the service manuals, read up on them and go for it.

What part of the world are you in?

jb


1984 Ford 230A to 545 Industrial Tractor Repair Manual - (item 170132701279 end time Jul-26-07 14:23:50 PDT)

 

[Grrrr]

I looked at part costs for the 545. I think you may have a 70's machine, the 80's machines don't list clutch parts. Maybe a torque converter on them?

For a 545 or 545A the clutch disk, pressure plate and both bearings will run between 350 and 700 depending on quality you want. Feramic is the most expensive but will last forever.

The estimate on labor for at pro a $75 and hour is conservative. You can do it yourself if you have a concrete pad and air tools {3/4 drive would be nice as some bolts are probably rusted stuck). You will need lots of jack stands, a cherry picker, rolling jacks and tools for the larger bolts. Go to a GM dealer and buy thier heat pipe penetrant. Best stuff out there by far. about 10 a can. Squirt every bolt and nut you can find once a day for a couple weeks. Order the service manuals, read up on them and go for it.

What part of the world are you in?

What would you use the cherry picker for?

To split the tractor to do the clutch you will definitely need lots of axle stands or blocks of wood. A concrete pad is nice but it can be done without one. A splitting stand is nice but is not essential. You can also do it with just spanners and extension bars to lever the really rusty bolts off. Don't really know why you need a cherry picker though?

 

[JerryG]

I always used two floor jacks and a couple of wood wedges for the front axle.

 

[Grrrr]

I always used two floor jacks and a couple of wood wedges for the front axle.

Do you use a trolley jack to take the rear end away?

 

[john_bud]

I use the cherry picker to hold the transmission bell housing end. It's a more secure hold and easier to wiggle into position than a floor jack (trolly jack for our brothers in the UK). I have however found that the use of BOTH the cherry picker (engine hoist to some) used in conjunction with the floor jack gives real good positioning control.

Splitting rails bolted to each half would naturally be better, but for us hobbiest, they are pretty rare.

I use jack stands to hold the engine side up. If you keep the frame connected to the engine side and the FEL on it, you won't have trouble with the engine wanting to flop over.

Like fingerprints, each person seems to have a slightly different method of getting the same thing done. It's good to share them and learn from others!

jb

 

[JerryG]

Do you use a trolley jack to take the rear end away?

No, I have always just put a floor jack under each end. Blocked the front axle so that it wouldn't move and wedge the pivot. Then pull the back half away. I used to be good at it and fast, before I started having back problems. The last double clutch that I did was a MF 165. I pulled it in the shop at 8:00 AM and pulled it out at 11:45 AM the same day, right before lunch. I don't think that I could do that today.

 

[john_bud]

Now that's good!

Last one I did was quite a bit longer. Heck, it took more time than that just to get all the junk out of the way to get access to the bolts.