3-Point Hitch Newbie Question - 3 Point Hitch Top Link

[JWR]

Not the hydraulic top link, but the hydraulic adjustable lifting arm (Side Link).

Ah ! Gotcha.

 

[Jim Nelson]

Contact Brian at fit rite hydraulics for all things hydraulic top and tilt, he's the master and a member here.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks All! I'll switch it to the top attachment point and see if I notice any difference. I've been using the box blade to level out ground, both pushing and pulling (with and without the scarifiers when pulling), adjusting the length of the top link for each operation. I've also had to do some leveling cross-slope, using the adjustable lift arm to set it at the angles I need to get a level area on the cross slope. REALLY WISH I had the hydraulic adjustable lift arm (Side Link), but it's apparently not compatible when you have the backhoe subframe.

I would like to clear up the Top & Tilt thought that they can not be used in conjunction with the back hoe sub frame on the Kubota tractors of various models. This is what the dealers tell you, because the Kubota factory T&T sets can not be used with their backhoe sub frame.
The Fit Rite T&T set fits fine with no known issues.

I have sold several sets to people with backhoes on their MX series tractors and no complaints so far. :thumbsup:


The original reasoning for the 3 top link pin holes is as earlier described, draft control sensitivity.

The other reasoning for having multiple top link pin locations, even for those that do not have draft control is the implement lifting arc or lack there of changes depending on which pin location is used.

Normally the top pin location lifts the implement basically level. This is typically where you want the top link located for grading purposes.

Another thing to know about is that the lower the pin location, the higher the implement can be lifted. The lowest pin location provides the greatest amount of arc, thus more lift height of the implement.

 

[RoyKing]

I find the draft essential when using my box blade. When I'm moving dirt the draft will let me fill the box with dirt then stop digging and then dump where needed. When I[m leveling with blade set neutral it will let me skim over the fresh dirt and level it. I usually use the 3rd position most sensitive. To me the box blade awful without draft, and I have hyd top link

 

[JWR]

I find the draft essential when using my box blade. When I'm moving dirt the draft will let me fill the box with dirt then stop digging and then dump where needed. When I[m leveling with blade set neutral it will let me skim over the fresh dirt and level it. I usually use the 3rd position most sensitive. To me the box blade awful without draft, and I have hyd top link

That is a great input. I have been a minimal user of the box, always cutting down a building site floor, loosening hard pack clay or something where I was not really moving much soil. As a result I never even tried the DRAFT control.

 

[oosik]

The Operator Manual for my M6040 reads exactly the same as Dave M7040. Use the top hole. I, also, highly recommend a hydraulic top link. It makes the job of fine tuning so much easier, more accurate & faster.

 

[Dave M7040]

I agree with diesel85's comments. I never disagree with Dave7040 who does the best research around and is way senior to me. I will nitpick Dave just a tiny bit. The Draft control sensing is on lift, not pulling force. Some newer tractors do Draft sensing on the lower arms rather than the top link attach point (which means only up/down, not pulling force.) Draft control only lets up and reduces lift at the right sensed times in order to gain a more constant depth for plow work. I had not heard that the 3 holes relate to fine tuning of Draft control but could be, I'll take Dave's word for it. To me the 3 holes relate more to the arc of implement movement when raising it and thus indirectly to the amount of lift force required of the two lift arms. For my work (and I think the majority of users) DRAFT control is never used or needed.

Anytime box scrapers come up as a topic I always inject that an hydraulic top link is so very very handy with a box scraper, allowing you to adjust cutting depth/angle without leaving the seat. At my "age and level of feeble" I essentially can't/won't use a box scraper without an hyd top link because of the excessive number of climbs up and down from the tractor without it.

JWR

Please take the time to look at the short youtube video on draft control.

What I was trying to explain, perhaps not clearly, is that with an implement like a plow, as the moldboards engages the earth being pulled by the lower arms, the plow tries to rotate back and up out of the ground because the height where the pulling force is applied to the plow is above the moldboards. The plow is trying to roll over forward.

This rotation forces the top link towards the tractor thus activating the draft control valve.

In the video, the operator is easily able to lift the rear of a two furrow plow as the draft control action raises the lift arms in response to his small upward lifting force.

When you see how easily it is to engage the draft control action, to me it makes sense that having the fine adjustment provided by the 3 holes for the top link attachment as explained in the Owners' manual excerpt.

The Ferguson System Draft Control - YouTube

Dave M7040