Newbie questions: Draft control?

[Farmwithjunk]

Share (also called point) is the horizontal cutting edge. Shin is the vertical cutting edge. Landslide is the side that runs against the furrow wall to keep the plow running straight. Some landslides had "wear plates" that were replaceable. The moldboard is the rounded "wing" if you will that rolls the dirt. Moldbard extentions do just that. The "disc" you refered to is called a "coulter" . There's a piece under all of that called the "frog". That holds it all together, and secures the plow bottom to the shank. Also, there are other parts that were optional called "Jointers", and cover boards (aka "trash boards") On most plows there was a "tail wheel" that took some pressure off the landslides to keep the plow running straight.

Moldboards were available as slatted, solid, and a rarity known as a "Scotch bottom". (those were primarily for turning sod)

Some older plows had the shin made into the moldboard. Those were replaced along in the 1950's with "throw-away" bottoms where the shin could be replaced without sacrificing a good moldboard.

Plows aren't used much in farming anymore, but are fast reaching new highs in value as collectors items, or for gardens and "plow days". Bigger (More than 3 bottoms) plows are about worthless anymore though.

Clear as mud, huh?

 

[KiotiJohn]

Farmwithjunk that was great. I'm not sure I ever knew all of that, and had forgotten most of what I did know!
When I was a kid, I used to help my great granddad do his garden with a mule and ploughs. Seems like a hundred years ago now, and all I use now is my rototiller on the hitch.
John

 

[dieselsmoke1]

Geez, where's all the old farmers?
If i could change one thing about my tractor, it would be to add a good draft control system for the boxblade, subsoiler, disc, etc.
MF 35's / 135's had 3 pt. draft control down to a fine art. Didn't think I would miss much, alas i was wrong.

 

[stevenf]

I know a little more about tractors and their operation then I did last year as a complete newbie to tractors but I'm running a 90hp machine with some fairly specialized needs which may not enter into your requirements but I've found my draft control invaluable in saving implements from destruction. I can set the draft on the light side and not worry about folding my chisel plow into a pretzel the same goes for my boxblade scarifiers. I'm in the Texas hillcountry and its very rocky here the rocks can be as big as a tin can or a Hummer you never know quite what your looking at until you get an implement hung on it and start feeling the tractor pull down without the draft I'm sure I'd have folded something up by now. Most of my problem is that I plant food plots all over the ranch in little pieces between trees and all my implements are 3 point lift type so that I can get in and out without a lot of jockying around. This being the case most of my implements are even with my wheels if the tractor fits the implement fits, a 90 horse machine could easily pull a 14 foot plow and mine is 8 foot and when they make implements they make them as strong as the width so a 8' is typically built much lighter then a 14'. I have found some other advantages to buying undersized implements I'm probably the only guy in the county that can get a chisel in the ground after 8 months without appreciable rain because I'm pulling 7 shanks instead of 11 or more. We plowed, seeded, fertilized and disked 10 or so acres last weekend finished disking by headlight but 3 hours later it started raining and didn't stop for 2 days, our timing was as perfect as I could have ever prayed for and the seed is already germinating so we should have it above ground by this weekend.
Steve

 

[Kamaking]

Having farmed for many years no tractor is a toy to me.

And I know of no farmer who wouldn't want draft control.

Even with a blade or boxblade it makes it so much easier to do. I just bought a 35 hp Kama for use on my roads at my campground and the draft control on it works really nice.

I also have an old Ford 2n that has been in the familt for over 60 years and it works good to this day. I have a david brown with draft control.

If your buying a tractor and you can get it with Draft do it . /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

How much are you saving by not having draft control?

I bet it's not that big a difference and I'm suprised it's an option with Kubota.

Just because you don't have a need for it now, nor know how to use it right now, doesnt' mean you wont in the future. We all start out knowing nothing, but in time we gain knowledge and experience. In time, you very well might find that it's something your really need. After all, there are ALLOT of tractors with it.

My tractor came with rear remotes already on it and I wasn't charged extra for it, so it was a no brainer. The advantage is that since they are there, they may come in handy one day. So far the only thing I can think of using them for would be a log splitter. I don't care for the box blade, but if it had top and tilt, I might like it better. With the rear remotes, I can go that route fairly easily.

If it was me making the choice, I would get draft control but not worry about rear remotes unless it was really cheap.

Another thing to consider when buying your tractor is bundeling a package together. Most dealers will give you a super deal on implements when you buy your tractor. If you go back in six months, he might not be so willing to give you the same price.

If you don't have the money to buy the implements now, try to get a price in writing. You can use this when you can afford them.

Things you really need are the mower. Six feet is great.

Post hole digger. It's one of those things that comes in handy all the time that you can't live without. Get a 12 inch auger with pengo style bit.

Front end loader. (FEL) This will be the most useful thing on your tractor.

Consider a disk over a rototiller. The disk is cheaper and will do the same job, but will take more passes. I'm not a fan of tillers because they are very slow on virgin soil and repairs can be extremely expensive. If you brake your disk, it's not a big deal.

The list goes on and on, but those are what I use and can recomend.

Eddie

 

[hsvhobbit]

LOL...folks, I think I'm gonna really enjoy this place. I can't believe just HOW much information ya'll have at your fingertips. Would've never guessed there was so much to what I've regarded as a 'simple' piece of bent metal called a plow...never again.

I believe I'll go ahead and see just how fond they are of draft control and if it's only a few $$ more will just go ahead and get it. I've been told by the previous owner that the place is loaded with rocks (at least one area of it is for sure) so if I can avoid tearing up some equipment possibly with it then it might make sense. Or am I just fooling myself?

Will definitely get the extra hydralics and controls for the tilt feature. Sorta expect my wife to use the tractor as much as I do (if I'm lucky lol) and the added convienance should be worth it. I also feel I may be able to negotiate a little on the options when I'm in the buying phase of a tractor as opposed to when I've got the tractor and they know I NEED the stuff added on.

Thanks a bunch

 

[HEC]

I almost bought the 5030 with the hst trans. but the dealer and a kubota factory rep. pointed me to the m series tractor instead , not an hst transmission due to my doing tillage work , like pulling a 3 bottom plow etc.I sure like the draft control on mine I believe it comes standard on all the m series.If I were going to work up 10 acres of ground I would look at a used 2 or 3 bottom plow to use first and maybe a used disc harrow and than it would be so much easier to use the rototiller after the ground is broke up ,if that is what you want, a rototiller does a very good job.You could do it with just a tiller but it might be a very slow process unless your ground is not to hard like mine can be at times.If you decide to go with a gear trans. you might want to consider creeper gears as that is the route I chose.I found that the m series tractor at least was to fast in first gear for alot of the work I do with a tractor.The creeper gears sure took care of that problem,I use them so much more than I ever thought I would.Talk to a good dealer and let them know exactly what you will be using your tractor for and they will help you to decide which tractor is best for your needs.
Good Luck

 

[5030]

Dieselsmoke1

You are right about the draft on a MF. My 1085 is much more easily modulated that my M9 but, I'd still not get draft control on a CUT. Position control is workable for 95% of a CUT's useability.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You are right about the draft on a MF. My 1085 is much more easily modulated that my M9 but, I'd still not get draft control on a CUT. Position control is workable for 95% of a CUT's useability. )</font>
I agree with Daryl on this one. Position control, keep your hand on the lever and adjust it when you feel it resisting. I do this all the time while using my boxblade, and it pretty much works fine.
I can always tell as soon as I have resistance. Of course, the draft control would do it automatically, making it easier, but I guess it depends on cost as to whether it's really worth it.
If you're going as much as 45HP, I could see it.
John