Newbie Questions

[pairodime]

Can anyone offer words of wisdom?

--I am rapidly approaching 20 hrs, when the Robins manual says to do the first oil change. Can anyone give any pointers about how to collect the drained oil in the bottom of the PT without making a mess? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

--I've found that when I'm greasing the zircs, that sometimes I cannot get any grease to flow into it, and freqently just end up with grease coming out between the fitting and the gun. Sometimes when the machine is in a different spot it then goes. Why? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

--After several hours of operation (everything is hot), the engine starts to sound like it's out of gas. I check but there's still 2 inches in the bottom of the tank. But I also note that bubbles are pouring out of the gas tube connection. After a few minute they stop. The engine starts up fine and I'm fine for another 20 minutes when it happens again. Near as I can tell the engine is hot enough to boil the gas creating a vapor barrier? It hasn't occured when the gas tank is more full. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

--Finally, any tips for improving the bone jarring ride when working off road? The chair could use a spring or something!

Thanks

 

[pajoube]

When I change oil I have a 10 inch piece of sheet metal bent into a V that I use to funnel the oil into a pan.
Greasing the zerks - if your refering to the center pivot points that is common. I just change the angle until it takes the grease. I also found that a grease gun under air pressure works more often then the pump type.
Have not noticed any gas bubbling but then really haven't looked.
Most of my tractor operation is on soil and not on roads which is a lot easier ride.
PJ

 

[DML]

I just changed the oil today for the first time. I think that PT had installed this bended tube to the oil drain to try to keep things neat, but I couldn't get the cap off. I ended up taking off the tube and using a piece of plastic to funnel through the hole in the bottom, similar to the previouse post.

I've also had some trouble greasing, like you. However, I had a gun with a rigid tube that was difficult to get the right angle. I just got a flexible tube and expect this to resolve.

I also did the hydrolic filter change today, and with it, emptied and replaced the hydrolic oil. It was messier than I expected. Is the priming supposed to be done befor or after filter replacement? I did it befor. When I took the filter off, a lot of oil came out, and kept coming out. It proved difficult to put the new filter on with oil pouring out over the filter and my hands. Once I did get it on, I primed again, just to be safe. It works well. Just a lot of oil on the drive.

 

[cqaigy]

I would think you would prime after changing the filter so as to remove any air you have introduced into the system.

 

[FOURTEEN]

"" any tips for improving the bone jarring ride when working off road? The chair could use a spring or something! ""

Adjust tire pressure!! 7# Rear, 11# Front.


Or, one dozen donuts every day for a month!!

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[SnowRidge]

<font color="red">(--After several hours of operation (everything is hot), the engine starts to sound like it's out of gas. I check but there's still 2 inches in the bottom of the tank. But I also note that bubbles are pouring out of the gas tube connection. After a few minute they stop. The engine starts up fine and I'm fine for another 20 minutes when it happens again. Near as I can tell the engine is hot enough to boil the gas creating a vapor barrier? It hasn't occured when the gas tank is more full.) </font>

I had that happen to me after I put the engine back in our PT-425. I traced it to tank vibrations. I didn't have the tank mounting bracket bolts tight enough (Note: not the tank mounting bolts), and the whole assembly had shifted slightly and was in contact with the hood.

Pushing the tank assembly rearward and tightening the mounting bracket bolts cured it.

 

[MossRoad]

On our Kohler engine, the drain holes for the oil are directly over a hole in the floor pan of the engine compartment. A large coffee can fits under the unit perfectly.

Haven't had any problems with the grease zerks or air in the gas line.

As Fourteen mentioned, adjusting your tire pressure really makes a huge difference in ride quality.

Someone on here made a suspension seat last year. I am embarrassed to say I can't recall, but think it was Johara. He said it really improved the ride.

Also, a better seat could be ordered aftermarket.

 

[pajoube]

Never fails /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif mine came with the frame opening for oil changing just a hair off.
PJ

 

[FOURTEEN]

"" the frame opening for oil changing just a hair off ""


I think we both have the same model run PT-425!! From the horizontal opening in the side of the Kohler engine a 90 degree fitting turns down with a 7/8" hex cap on the end. The cap is turned horizontally to open.

At 50 hours I had a terrible time getting that oil drain cap loose! Either the tool wouldn't fit in there, or if I found a tool that fit, I couldn't turn it!! Can't use a 7/8" socket because the cap doesn't line up with that frame opening, as you said, so I finally used a wrench and pried horizontally against it with a small crow bar!! What an ordeal!!!

Today, at 100 hours, I faced the same problem all over again! But, as I began to position a 7/8" open end wrench in the hole, the 'big idea' light bulb lit over my head!!


Slip a 7/8" open end wrench vertically over the END of the cap aligned front to back. Do not rotate the wrench! Turn the wrench horizontally about 30 degrees toward the front of the PT. Now the capped fitting still faces downward, but is tilted forward toward the frame opening! A 7/8" socket can be inserted through the frame opening directly onto the end of the hex cap, and loosen the cap easily!!!! Try it, you'll like it!!

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

PS: Normal practice is to warm up the engine before an oil change. Not with the PT-425, unless you happen to have asbestos arms!! Run the engine real good on some job, then the next morning change the oil! Just allow a little extra drain time, like while you do the grease job or air cleaner service.

PPS: For the foam precleaner on the air filter, I wash the foam in dish detergent, rinse well, and air dry. In a plastic bag mix three parts chainsaw bar and chain oil with 1 part gasoline. Drop in the foam. Saturate the foam, then squeeze out as much oil as possible. Air dry on old newspaper.
The bar and chain oil is tacky and will cling to the foam better than motor oil.
The gasoline helps to evenly spread a thin coating of oil on the foam, and makes removing the excess oil easier.

 

[pajoube]

Great ideas ,thanks.
I use a 7/8 inch long handled open end wrench and go though the back opening slit which just reaches. So far that has worked well but have considered and extension line for draining.
PJ