newbie to the diesel engine world

[gixxer1300]

thanks everybody the 1300 is now running like a champ and my knowledge about starting this little shibaura diesel engine is better.

 

[rs92stockie]

Salut, je suis de ste-sophie! I have a Kubota B21 since this summer, new to tractor too, do you use it for snow clearance ? Do you have a snowblower attached to it ?

 

[varmint]

Nobody mentioned it, so I will: put a synthetic engine oil, such as Rotella T-6, in it. Turns over much easier when it is very cold out. The block heater is probably the single most useful item, for sure. Oh- gelling fuel can be trouble, of course.

 

[gixxer1300]

Bonjour à toi! snow clearance of my driveway is the reason why i bought this tractor. clearing the driveway with my lawn tractor and a 42 in, snowblower was too long so i bought the ford 1300 and also a brand new 60 in, wifo snowblower. i will hook the snowblower to the tractor towmorrow and do some test.

Salut, je suis de ste-sophie! I have a Kubota B21 since this summer, new to tractor too, do you use it for snow clearance ? Do you have a snowblower attached to it ?

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks à lot Will try towmorrow with full battery and close throtle

I normally start my 65 hp tractor idling and since it starts, and is direct injected, (fuel directly injected into the combustion chamber, I don't change settings.

My 24 hp is "Swirl Charge Chambered" which is diesel mist squirted into a glow plug pre chamber off the side of the main combustion chamber. It ignites and the fireball goes through a hole and activates the main chamber. Owners manual says this system is used a lot in smaller hp tractors as it is less complex and cheaper to manufacture than direct injection.

On that tractor, it starts better with the throttle cracked, maybe ⅛ the distance from off to PTO rpm range. As soon as it lights off I put it back to idle and let it warm up.

Since you have to have your clutch pushed in to activate the starter, that takes the drive system load off the engine while starting, otherwise you want your clutch pushed in.

If you have any hydraulics (loader, 3 pt), ensure the controls are at the lowest settings so that the hydraulic pump isn't asking for hp from the engine while starting.

Using Rotella T Compression rated, heavy duty, full synthetic is 5W-40 viscosity and a big help in cold starts where thick oil can impede the engine spinning fast enough to develop enough heat to explode the diesel mist. Walmart stocks it around here.

If your glow plugs are on a timer after the ignition key is put in the ON position, when one cycle times out, immediately switch to OFF and back to ON for another cycle, or yet another. Glow plugs work on the battery pretty hard so have a good, load tested for starting current, capability battery and keep it fully charged.....besides the block heater. If your battery is old get a new one and as physically as large as you can fit into your tractor. Usually the cold cranking amps are better with large ones, but sometimes smaller ones have equal CCA...depends on the battery mfgr.

 

[gixxer1300]

Thanks à lot for hints.

I normally start my 65 hp tractor idling and since it starts, and is direct injected, (fuel directly injected into the combustion chamber, I don't change settings.

My 24 hp is "Swirl Charge Chambered" which is diesel mist squirted into a glow plug pre chamber off the side of the main combustion chamber. It ignites and the fireball goes through a hole and activates the main chamber. Owners manual says this system is used a lot in smaller hp tractors as it is less complex and cheaper to manufacture than direct injection.

On that tractor, it starts better with the throttle cracked, maybe ⅛ the distance from off to PTO rpm range. As soon as it lights off I put it back to idle and let it warm up.

Since you have to have your clutch pushed in to activate the starter, that takes the drive system load off the engine while starting, otherwise you want your clutch pushed in.

If you have any hydraulics (loader, 3 pt), ensure the controls are at the lowest settings so that the hydraulic pump isn't asking for hp from the engine while starting.

Using Rotella T Compression rated, heavy duty, full synthetic is 5W-40 viscosity and a big help in cold starts where thick oil can impede the engine spinning fast enough to develop enough heat to explode the diesel mist. Walmart stocks it around here.

If your glow plugs are on a timer after the ignition key is put in the ON position, when one cycle times out, immediately switch to OFF and back to ON for another cycle, or yet another. Glow plugs work on the battery pretty hard so have a good, load tested for starting current, capability battery and keep it fully charged.....besides the block heater. If your battery is old get a new one and as physically as large as you can fit into your tractor. Usually the cold cranking amps are better with large ones, but sometimes smaller ones have equal CCA...depends on the battery mfgr.

 

[Baby Grand]

Merry Cristmas, Gixxer & bienvenue dans TBN.

3/4 open throttle on our 1981 2 cyl B5100 or it won't fire.

If it's cold (below 40F), then at least 30 sec on the glow plugs or it won't fire.

Once it fires I can drop the throttle to a fast idle & it's fine.

Check your operator manual for engine oil viscosity. If you are going to run the tractor in cold weather, then you might consider a multi-grade oil to make starting easier. I run straight 30W in the B5100, but it hibernates in the barn during the Winter.

Speaking of oil, make sure you only use CI grade (Compression Ignition) oils in your diesel. SI (Spark Ignition) oil is for gas engines.

-Jim

 

[buickanddeere]

How long does the operator's manual state the glow plugs are required?

 

[Texasmark]

How long does the operator's manual state the glow plugs are required?

Neither of mine are stated; just reference to how the system works and when to hit the key.

On the Fords, the 2000 is on a momentary SPST switch that is finger operated as is the slobber system on the 3000. Time depends on operator's interpretation of what it takes for the thing to start under prevailing conditions.