Newbie with a quick disk question

[daniull]

also.. while I am here....I would like your opinions on this issue...

many people say tilling is bad for the soil...mainly due to worm killing issues and creating hardpan.... but wouldn't plowing do the same just at a deeper level? so with this thinking would it not be better to create hardpan at 12"-18" with the plow instead of at 6" with a tiller. (this is why I originally looked into No-till planting in the first place). So that's why I am thinking I should plow and then till with a tiller? that would eliminate this issue right?

 

[daniull]

and yes I do have a friend with a large tractor who plows and disks for me already... but I would rather own than rent a tiller....so perhaps I just need to throw down the money... i suppose.

 

[Barneyhunts]

I think you could 'till for a few years then plow and 'till and go into a cycle again. I've been rototilling my garden for 5 years now without an issue. Good luck! If you don't have a lot of large rocks you'll like the tiller. You might be able to rent one and try it.

 

[markb74]

Hi All, totally new to the forums but you guys seem to know whats going on....so... here's a ?

I have a John Deere 2210 (23 HP Diesel 4x4) with turf tires. Now I am debating between a tiller and a disc harrow. what sizes should I be looking at mainly for the harrow.. I know 48" is about the biggest I can do for the tiller...but I am unsure about the size of what I can drag in terms of a harrow.. I do understand that the turf tires are not the best for pulling....but I use this machine alot to mow about 3 acres and i don't want to take them off..

I am mainly using this for a 3/4 acre garden...

any comments would be appreciated....

daniel

Daniel,

I was wondering the same thing as you about two months ago. Ideally, I'd like to get a tiller, but ended up buying a disc on Craigslist - $300, a five foot, 2 gang, 3 point disc by Sunshine (by Modern out of Beaumont, TX). This disc wasn't made for a sub-compact tractor, but with the quick hitch I felt like I had an adequate lift height.

The weight of the disc wasn't a problem for my 2210 until I tried to disc when it was a little muddy; at one point, the tractor wouldn't lift the mud-caked disc to the full lift height but did get it off the ground.

Bottom line is I plowed then disked, and disked, and disked. I liked the results, and would make the same decision again. The 2210 had no problem pulling the disc.

Mark

 

[Reg]

I doubt that you will get to 12-18 inch depth range with a 22 HP tractor, well maybe with a single point tool, but you won't be plowing that deep.
1/2 the bottom width is a general depth rule, e.g. 6 inches for a 12 inch moldboard, 7 inches for a 14.

My guess is that your least cost option that is most consistent with your long term desires would be to have a local farmer plow it and either rent a tiller or have a local odd jobber till it the first year. i.e. don't put in capital.
Then you are free to not till, no obligation to make use of what you spent all that money on, no fear of compaction, worm killing, etc.

It isn't plowing & tilling that destroy soil, in fact they produce wonderful results for a year or two.
It is REPEATED plowing and tilling that causes the problems and you have the opportunity to give it up within a year.

 

[pitt_md]

For the size of garden that your talking about I would go tiller. Its not going to cost you 2k for a 4' tiller. It should be closer to half that. Check out King Kutter implements. King Kutter XB Rotary Tiller 4ft., Model# TC-48-XB
1399.99 at northern tool.

 

[foggy1111]

I agree with Pitt MD....Get the Tiller! The cost will be around $1200 new .....if you do some shopping...IMO.

I have both a box frame disc and a tiller....and I think your going to have problems pulling that disc around and getting much work done. A tiller does a nicer job - all in one pass too. IF hardpan becomes an issue in time to come.....you can always run a sub-soiler through your garden. They are pretty affordable.