I am in the process of purchasing my first tractor. According to the dealer, he recommended the B7500 HSD to do what I need to do: we have an acre of land, sandy soil with many trees (many which will be taken down). The land needs to be leveled and graded and I will be doing some snow removal and will be constructing stone walls around the property. We also purchased a rear blade RB1572 but noticed the RBT1572 with 5 optional tilt position. This also adds an additional $150 to the price. As you can tell, I have no idea how the implements are used and whether or not the 5 position tilt would benefit us..I have been thinking of getting a rear rake for raking leaves and debris - is that what it's used for? The dealer mentioned that he didn't know how useful the tractor would be in removing the roots and/or stumps but we need a compact tractor for maneuverability. Do you think this tractor is up for the task and are those the correct implements? I also questioned the dealer about adding removable teeth to the bucket but he advised that for our purposes, it wasn't needed. Appreciate your help and we hope this will be as much fun as you'all make it sound.
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- Thread starter Raven
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glennmac
Veteran Member
Raven,
Welcome to the challenging process of selecting a tractor. I shopped the Kubota B series extensively for 3 months and bought both ends of the product line -- a BX2200 which I traded for a B2910.
I certainly think a 7500 can do what you want and would be a good choice. I also think a BX2200 would be a reasonable choice if saving money is important. The tradeoff is that the 7500 will be able to lift more with a loader -- which you definitely are going to need -- and with the 3ph. I don't have a blade or rake, but you can certainly plow snow with a rear blade as well as grade soil. I'll defer to others on the rake, but it is primarily used to rake soil (to grade or level or spread). You may be able to rake up larger debris, but a landscape rake is not a leaf rake.
Glenn
Welcome to the challenging process of selecting a tractor. I shopped the Kubota B series extensively for 3 months and bought both ends of the product line -- a BX2200 which I traded for a B2910.
I certainly think a 7500 can do what you want and would be a good choice. I also think a BX2200 would be a reasonable choice if saving money is important. The tradeoff is that the 7500 will be able to lift more with a loader -- which you definitely are going to need -- and with the 3ph. I don't have a blade or rake, but you can certainly plow snow with a rear blade as well as grade soil. I'll defer to others on the rake, but it is primarily used to rake soil (to grade or level or spread). You may be able to rake up larger debris, but a landscape rake is not a leaf rake.
Glenn
Bird
Rest in Peace
Raven, I'm not familiar with those blade model numbers, but I'm guessing the tilt you refer to is to angle the blade so the dirt, snow, or whatever slides off to one end. And I would definitely think you would want that feature. I think the B7500HSD will be a fine machine for maintaining your property, but it sure won't be much good for removing stumps and roots unless you have very soft dirt. Even my B2710 isn't going to do much with a stump of any size in hard ground. I really don't have enough information about exactly what you have and intend to do, but my impression is that you're getting a good tractor, but need a dozer (rent one or hire someone else) to take out the trees and stumps.
Bird
Bird
glennmac
Veteran Member
Bird, all backblades will angle in the front to back plane. When Raven says optional tilt I believe he is referring to raising one end of the blade or the other in the vertical plane. This can be useful, so I have been informed, for crowning a driveway or for cutting a ditch. Of course, you should be able to tilt a blade to some degree by shortening the adjustable link rod on the 3ph.
Glenn
Glenn
Bird
Rest in Peace
OK, Glenn, I've seen both kinds (forgot about that kind of tilt), but I've never used one; just the box blade. I have a neighbor who has a blade and who has told me to just take it and use it anytime, but neither of us has used it in the last 6 years. One of these days, though, I'm going to try using it to smooth a driveway just to see how it works.
Bird
Bird
TomG
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 610
- Location
- Ontario
- Tractor
- Ford 1710: Loader, Hoe, Snowblower, Box scrapper & 3ph Forks
We've got a 24hp tractor for 1.75 acres with house and yard and another 1.75 acre camp. The tractor does handle larger jobs like material handling, grading and digging associated with construction projects well. However, I didn't get a finish mower for it because I realized I could mow the yard faster with the riding mower. It would take too long to maneuver around the landscaping and out buildings at the house. I do use a 3ph blower for snow removal on a 150' gravel drive, but a smaller tractor would work.
I figure the right tractor is one that one that's going to get the routine and on-going projects done, and maybe a little larger. Tractors large enough to do the one-shot things, such as stump removal, just get in the way most of the time. Big tractors also cost a lot, and it's probably cheaper to hire out the one-shot stuff. Keep in mind that a small tractor will manage pretty large jobs, but for the most part it just takes longer than with a larger machine. If you've got lots of time, small can be good.
Generally, box scrappers are easier to use than blades for grading. However, blades are much better at snow removal than scrapers. The main advantage of a blade over a scraper is all the different angle changes a good one can make. I'd say that getting a blade with every possible adjustment affordable is a good idea. If there's lot of grading involved, getting a blade that has side plates as an option would be helpful. Side plates enable a blade to carry dirt on the blade, like a scraper. Also getting a blade as heavy as possible is good. Light blades don't cut hard surfaces like gravel drives very well, although weight can be put on top of the blade. Landscape rakes are most useful in smoothing graded sites and separating small rock etc from the soil. I hear rakes are very useful, but a rake might be a one-time use implement in your situation.
Keep in mind that this grading business takes some experience. One of the first things you'll notice is that when the front tractor tires go up a hill, the blade digs in. You'll learn about 3ph position and float control. Anyway, you'll get the hang of it, and probably have fun doing it. The archives have a bunch of discussion on operating techniques.
I figure the right tractor is one that one that's going to get the routine and on-going projects done, and maybe a little larger. Tractors large enough to do the one-shot things, such as stump removal, just get in the way most of the time. Big tractors also cost a lot, and it's probably cheaper to hire out the one-shot stuff. Keep in mind that a small tractor will manage pretty large jobs, but for the most part it just takes longer than with a larger machine. If you've got lots of time, small can be good.
Generally, box scrappers are easier to use than blades for grading. However, blades are much better at snow removal than scrapers. The main advantage of a blade over a scraper is all the different angle changes a good one can make. I'd say that getting a blade with every possible adjustment affordable is a good idea. If there's lot of grading involved, getting a blade that has side plates as an option would be helpful. Side plates enable a blade to carry dirt on the blade, like a scraper. Also getting a blade as heavy as possible is good. Light blades don't cut hard surfaces like gravel drives very well, although weight can be put on top of the blade. Landscape rakes are most useful in smoothing graded sites and separating small rock etc from the soil. I hear rakes are very useful, but a rake might be a one-time use implement in your situation.
Keep in mind that this grading business takes some experience. One of the first things you'll notice is that when the front tractor tires go up a hill, the blade digs in. You'll learn about 3ph position and float control. Anyway, you'll get the hang of it, and probably have fun doing it. The archives have a bunch of discussion on operating techniques.
apcaruso
Member
Raven,
I have a setup very similar to what you are looking at; B7500, RBT1572 Blade, 302 Loader. I also have the 60" mid-mower deck. I just took delivery about a month ago and it is my first tractor beyond the garden tractor level. I also considered the bx2200 and b2410.
I used the tractor this past weekend to HELP remove 7 stumps ranging in size from roughly 4 - 6 inches. I needed to get in there with a malloc(sp?) to cut some of the large surface roots first. Once the stumps had a little wobble to them I was able to push them out. Traction is really the issue here. I probably would not base my decision to heavily on this point since I am not sure if any tractor in the compact range can pull out a decent size stump without some prior digging to loosen it. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I went with the tilting rear blade for a couple of reasons. 1. When the blade is tilted it digs aggressively. If you want to excavate an area with your loader that is heavily compacted, you can run a few passes with the blade tilted to loosen the soil first. I know others have talked about doing this with a box blade as well.
2. We are also terracing our slightly sloping back yard, which will require building a few field stone retaining walls. The tilting feature is really handy here. When running across the slope with the blade tilted, although the tractor is tilted the blade is level. In addition, the corner of the blade bites into the ground helping to prepare a solid, level footing for the wall.
Regarding the rake, I considered getting a york style rake for keeping a wooded area clear of leaves, sticks and debris. I would think that the rake would be way to agressive if used it to rake leaves on a lawn, though.
Overall I am very happy with my decision and would do it the same way again. Before buying the rear blade I was sold on getting a box-blade, but was strongly advised away from it by the dealer because of the rocky New England soil.
I would be interested in hearing if anyone else in New England ( or where the soil is considered to be rocky ) has had problems using this implement.
Good luck with whatever you decide on and it is a lot of fun! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
AC
I have a setup very similar to what you are looking at; B7500, RBT1572 Blade, 302 Loader. I also have the 60" mid-mower deck. I just took delivery about a month ago and it is my first tractor beyond the garden tractor level. I also considered the bx2200 and b2410.
I used the tractor this past weekend to HELP remove 7 stumps ranging in size from roughly 4 - 6 inches. I needed to get in there with a malloc(sp?) to cut some of the large surface roots first. Once the stumps had a little wobble to them I was able to push them out. Traction is really the issue here. I probably would not base my decision to heavily on this point since I am not sure if any tractor in the compact range can pull out a decent size stump without some prior digging to loosen it. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I went with the tilting rear blade for a couple of reasons. 1. When the blade is tilted it digs aggressively. If you want to excavate an area with your loader that is heavily compacted, you can run a few passes with the blade tilted to loosen the soil first. I know others have talked about doing this with a box blade as well.
2. We are also terracing our slightly sloping back yard, which will require building a few field stone retaining walls. The tilting feature is really handy here. When running across the slope with the blade tilted, although the tractor is tilted the blade is level. In addition, the corner of the blade bites into the ground helping to prepare a solid, level footing for the wall.
Regarding the rake, I considered getting a york style rake for keeping a wooded area clear of leaves, sticks and debris. I would think that the rake would be way to agressive if used it to rake leaves on a lawn, though.
Overall I am very happy with my decision and would do it the same way again. Before buying the rear blade I was sold on getting a box-blade, but was strongly advised away from it by the dealer because of the rocky New England soil.
I would be interested in hearing if anyone else in New England ( or where the soil is considered to be rocky ) has had problems using this implement.
Good luck with whatever you decide on and it is a lot of fun! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
AC
Corm
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 352
- Location
- Fairfax, Franklin County, Vermont
- Tractor
- 1999 Cub Cadet 7260, 1953 Farmall Super A
Your comment about what your dealer said in regards to using a box blade in New England is exactly what my dealer told me as well. I was skeptical when I first heard it, but have also heard it from a couple of other folks since then. I use a grader blade turned backwards to grade my 1500' driveway, and I've learned to do a pretty fair job with that in the two years I've had my tractor. I just find it hard to believe New England is the only place that has rocks in the soil....
scruffy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2000
- Messages
- 1,445
- Tractor
- None (at present)
Well, all I can say is back up here in the canyons east of Orange California, is we have a little soil mixed in with the rocks. At least in this canyon!
Rowski
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2000
- Messages
- 1,474
- Location
- North Central Vermont, Jay Peak Area
- Tractor
- 2004 New Holland TN70DA with 32LC loader, 2000 New Holland 2120 with Curtis cab, 7309 loader
Welcome. Glad to see another Vermonter on the board!
There are a cuople of people who have box blades in my area. The mostly use the box blade for spreading fine gravel , top soil, sand etc,. One guy used the rippers on the box blade (by shortining the top link) to loosen soil. Depending on price I plan on purchasing a scarifiier 3 point hitch (rippers) for loosening rocky, rooty soil. To get a box effect I will make removal end plates and adding a guage wheel for my blade.
Derek
There are a cuople of people who have box blades in my area. The mostly use the box blade for spreading fine gravel , top soil, sand etc,. One guy used the rippers on the box blade (by shortining the top link) to loosen soil. Depending on price I plan on purchasing a scarifiier 3 point hitch (rippers) for loosening rocky, rooty soil. To get a box effect I will make removal end plates and adding a guage wheel for my blade.
Derek
