NH 1920 slow hydraulics

[cmobile]

Newbie here.
I have a small mobile oil change business and service tractors on occasion. One of my clients called and said the tractor is slow. Hydraulics when moving FEL up pause, then start to move up. Going down is very slow. Client says overall tractor is kinda sluggish.

I changed the oil back in September and a new air filter. I used Mobil Delvac 15W-40.

During winter months, it mostly used for snow removal. Gets a lot more use in the summer.

Any thoughts? Is the 15W-40 oil causing the sluggishness. The manual also referenced a HDMO 10W-30 like Rotella T5.
The loader arm has a the number 1708 on it. (is this the loader model ?) it also had "FORD" on it

Do these have a hydraulic filter, or just a screen, like 150 micron mesh?

I will investigate tomorrow but wanted to get some insight into this before hand.
Thanks

~C

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

They do have a hyd. filter that should be serviced regularly. And the hyd fluid should also be changed. The best advice I can give you is to get a service manual. My 1900 has 3 drain plugs and I think the 1920 is the same. You also have to make sure you put the proper fluid in it. DO NOT USE PLAIN HYD OIL.
Bill

 

[dboacres]

Hope that you didn't put motor oil in the trans/hydro system. 15-40 fine for engine. I have a 1920 with 7108 FEL. Can send PDF. manuals for both. Leaving for my place in Oregon in AM. Not sure when I can send them. Look for trans/hydro oil leaks. If you have a 3000 psi pressure testing guage, you can hook into system and check hydraulic pump. Also is the spool valve on the relief valve/diverter valve in the correct position? Manuals are a must. I think you mean the loader is a Ford 7108.

 

[jinman]

I agree with the other posters that your post sounds like you only changed engine oil. If so, the oil and filter you used were probably fine. If you used that oil in the hydraulic system, it may not be performing properly.

Sluggish hydraulics normally relate to air in the system (normally accompanied by noise and foaming). However, it also could be a restriction such as a dirty filter or a pressure type filter being used where a suction type filter should be used (10 micron vs. 25 micron for example). I would make sure the hydraulic oil is clean and the filter new and correct. Then, I'd start looking along the suction line (larger pipe going to the pump) for leaks that might let air into the system. I'd also disconnect and reseat any of the quick connects going to the FEL.

BTW: If the FEL is sluggish and the 3PH operates normally, there may be something wrong with the joystick valve. I'd definitely put a heavy implement onto the 3PH and cycle it a few time to see if it also has erratic operation. If there is something wrong with the main hydraulic system, both 3PH and the FEL would be affected.

 

[cmobile]

Thanks for the info on the hyd filter. Will replace it today. Owner has the manual. Engine has 306 hours, and original hyd filter.
Sorry I wasn't clear on the oil change, I changed the engine oil only.

Manual says hyd oil should be changed @300 hours. So I will inform my customer I recommend hyd oil and filter change.

I appreciate the help!
Blessings,
Cmobile

 

[cmobile]

Parker has A 10 micron filter cheaper than OEM from tractor store. The pump is rated @ 7.9 GPM. Parker store says their filter has more than enough flow.

What do you suggest, OEM from tractor store (micron rating unknown) or Parker hyd filter?

Thanks

 

[jinman]

Parker has A 10 micron filter cheaper than OEM from tractor store. The pump is rated @ 7.9 GPM. Parker store says their filter has more than enough flow.

What do you suggest, OEM from tractor store (micron rating unknown) or Parker hyd filter?

Thanks

You know, I'm not sure what the proper filter size is, so I'd say you need to play it safe and use the OEM filter, especially since your client is having problems with his FEL.

Also, 1920s have not been made for a long time. Even though your client only has 306 hours, that tractor has sat through many seasons with that oil. It may be dying of old age rather than use. I'd do a change with an OEM filter and make sure the filter is tight. I'd also follow the line from the filter to the main hydraulic pump and look for a rubber boot section that Ford/New Holland likes to use on their suction line. That boot has been a source of air leaks on many tractors. It's usually about 4" long and has two hose clamps holding it in place.

 

[dex3361]

Parker has A 10 micron filter cheaper than OEM from tractor store. The pump is rated @ 7.9 GPM. Parker store says their filter has more than enough flow.

What do you suggest, OEM from tractor store (micron rating unknown) or Parker hyd filter?

Thanks

I agree with Jim I would use the OEM filter even if there was not a problem. Its not worth the risk for a few bucks. If you had all of the OEM filter details on MICRON size then it may be an option.

 

[Soundguy]

ditto... go oem.. especially till you sort out the problem. at a minimum.. that's a 10+ yr old machine..

soundguy

 

[Robert_in_NY]

You need the serial number when you go to the NH dealer for the hydraulic filter. Ford/New Holland used two different types of hydraulic filters on the 1920 depending on the serial number break. The wrong filter will allow air into the system.