NH 1920 slow hydraulics

[cmobile]

Thank you all for the help. Tractor seemed to be working better. My client will use it tomorrow to clear the snow we are getting tonight. They will let me know if that totally solved the issue or further investigation is required. I will look at the suction line for leaks, and possible valve issues as mentioned. Oh yea, the tractor is a 1997 vintage.

I used OEM filter and the New Holland dealer only carried John Deer brand oil. Said it was what they use and it met the spec Multi-G 134 Fluid. So I paid the $15.5/gallon price.

The new oil was almost clear. The oil that came out looked clear on the dipstick, but was dark when seen in solid stream coming from the drain plug.

Thank you all so much. This forum is a valuable resource. I hope to get more ranchers as customers and will have to use this site often.

~C

 

[Soundguy]

the jd oil will be fine.. it almost certaintly meets the m2c134d spec.....

soundguy

 

[cmobile]

Well my client cleared snow today. Said it was better, but not up to par. At least they were able to push snow today. Though they still thought is was a tad slow. Temps were above 20 deg today.

They were told by a friend that that's how tractors are in the winter. Just a bit slower.

After I changed the hydraulic oil, the FEL and 3PH were smooth with no erratic movement. I felt the hydraulics move fine. (worked on hydraulics in the Navy for many years) Not sure about tractor speed though.

Not exactly sure, but I think the client feels the speed of the tractor is slow, no matter what gear range, (low, med, high) or 1-4th gear. like it is lacking power, though the engine does not bog down. as if there were poor power transmission.

Is there something else we can check?

Thanks,

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not aware of an hst tranny for that machine.. only a 12x12 shuttle or a 12x4 'plain' .. IE.. gear drive all the way... unless his clutch is badly slipping.. he should be making the correct speed as always, depending on gear, range, and engine rpm...

soundguy

 

[cmobile]

I has a lever for High, Medium, and Low, near the seat.

Then above the steering wheel throttle, it has 1,2,3,4 and you have to push the clutch to shift.

 

[jinman]

I has a lever for High, Medium, and Low, near the seat.

Then above the steering wheel throttle, it has 1,2,3,4 and you have to push the clutch to shift.

As Soundguy mentioned, the High/Medium/Low makes 3 ranges, and each range has 4 gears above the steering wheel of each range. That makes 3x4=12 speeds. In all those speeds, you can go in reverse, so that makes it 12x12. That's a completely gear transmission with the only opportunity for slippage to the the clutch. With a clutch, you'd see slipping primarily in the higher ranges, with the engine revving up, but no speed increase. I suspect your client is just getting used to his tractor and feeling the need for more power/speed like many of us.

As to testing of hydraulics, the best thing to give you an idea of the health of a hydraulic system is a pressure test. What many of us have done is to buy a good 5000 psi gage and attach it to a hydraulic quick connect fitting. That way, on a tractor with a remote fitting or an FEL, all you do is disconnect one FEL hose or attach to the remote and pressurize the circuit. If the hydraulic pressure goes to the maximum (probably at least 2250 on the 1920) then you know the system is capable of supplying maximum spec. pressure. You can't test flow, but if the maximum pressure is met, then flow is most likely okay. Of course, this requires you to do some research and know what the pressures should be. I think on CUTs and many industrial tractor applications, all the maximum pressures would be between 2000 and 3000 psi, with the larger tractors having more pressure. If you did some research and had a reference for pressures, you could add pressure testing as an additional service to your clients either as a paid service or value added for using you.

 

[cmobile]

Thanks for the clarification jinman. I am new to tractors (obviously)

I will visit my client this week where temps are in the 60's-70's and check the clutch. This way I can see first hand what they are experiencing. To date, I only hear about the tractor problems.

Blessings,

~C

 

[jaandrew]

Hi, On the ford 1920 if the tractor won't move and the fel doesn't work is it more likely the pump or something more serious? I don't own the tractor and not sure of all circumstances just trying to get informed. please give advice a dummy can understand. Thank you jaandrew john

 

[bspeedy]

This is an old thread - 7 years old. If you're looking at the 1920 on craigslist in asheville, I wouldn't touch that thing - not for what he's asking.

And my assumption is that the hydraulic pump is out and probably the clutch.

 

[fried1765]

This is an old thread - 7 years old. If you're looking at the 1920 on craigslist in asheville, I wouldn't touch that thing - not for what he's asking.

And my assumption is that the hydraulic pump is out and probably the clutch.

Is that the one on CL just South of Charlotte, for $3500?
It might be suitable as a parts tractor.
From serial # it is a 1988 model, but could be either a 3 cyl. or a 4 cyl. as I believe they switched in that year.
I have a 1920 (4 cyl.), and would consider buying that 1920 for $500,..... but it is too far away.
$3500 ....NEVER!
Time for the local tractor junk yard!